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Brand new Tohatsu won't start!

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Even Chance
Captain

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USA
393 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2008 : 21:41:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 Joe, it actually is brand new, a 2008, we just ordered it from Online Outboards.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is why I'm a big believer in buying from a local dealer. Honda, for example, requires the dealer to run in the motor and then do an orientation with the customer, with the motor running, before the motor leaves the shop.

Edited by - on

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2008 : 16:58:04

almost certainly a fouled needle jet that takes gas in from the tank to the carb bowl.

Easy fix, B12 Chenm Tool should clean it up.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2008 : 18:52:23

deliottg

Joe, it actually is brand new, a 2008, we just ordered it from Online Outboards.

JohnRusell

Mine's the 2005 Joe. It still isn't running.

Obviously, I'm easily confused, however as Jim states this sounds like a carb problem. That being said, if I had just purchased an outboard from Online Outboards I would let them handle it. If for no other reason then to protect my warranty. From everything I have read they are a Class "A" organization. However, I would still spray some car cleaner in that bowl.

Edited by - Sloop Smitten on 05/14/2008 19:15:22

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2008 : 20:28:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Even Chance
 This is why I'm a big believer in buying from a local dealer. Honda, for example, requires the dealer to run in the motor and then do an orientation with the customer, with the motor running, before the motor leaves the shop.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and when the throttle damper didn't work on my new Honda 8 on Passage, my local dealer found that there was a "recall" fix, ordered the part, came over to my boat (five miles away) and installed it in my slip--paid for by Honda. Almost made me want to buy another one! (Actually, I've now bought two others.)

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/14/2008 20:29:11

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2008 : 09:17:24

An update to the update:

When I tested the engine last night, it started right up and ran like a top as long as it had a bit of throttle applied. It doesn't seem to want to idle down to nothing like it did the first time I ran it, but that could still be slightly fouled plugs I suspect. After I ran it at fast idle for a while, it would -usually- idle down to nothing, but not always.

I didn't even bother to pump the bulb, and after the engine was running, I gave it a gentle squeeze just to gauge how hard it was, and was surprised to find it quite hard.

So, lessons learned:
<ul><li> Don't squeeze the crap out of the bulb, it's simply not necessary. </li><li> Carry tools to service the spark plugs, including wrenches, brass brush, and a file or sand paper to dress the electrodes. Paper towels or a couple of rags would be good too so you can sop up the extra fuel on the plugs.</li><li> Carry at least one set of spare plugs, so in an emergency you can just swap them out and get back underway, and clean up the fouled plugs later. </li><li> If the engine won't turn over at all, suspect [url="http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm"]hydrostatic [/url](petrostatic?) lock, and pull your spark plugs to relieve it. Pull the engine around with the cord or starter to blow any accumulated fuel out of the cylinders. Aim the spark plug holes away from anything you don't want to spray with a surprisingly large amount of gasoline. I have a twelve to fifteen foot spray pattern in my grass that's browning up nicely.</li><li> When trying to start back up, start with no choke and wide open throttle to clear the carb and cylinders of excess fuel. Expect this to take some time, even with a starter motor. If your experience is like mine, you'll find that it won't even run at lower throttle settings, and it'll be very grumbly about running even with the throttle wide open.</li><li> If you suspect hydrostatic lock, it's probably better to try to start the engine manually than electrically, you're less likely to cause damage by pulling the cord. My first thought was that I'd run my battery dead, but that wasn't the case at all. Don't keep trying to start a hydrostatically locked engine, you'll only do expensive damage. I hope I haven't damaged mine, only time will tell.</li><li> Expect that the engine will run roughly till the excess fuel is gone. It may be necessary to clean out the carb, hope that you don't have to do this out on the water bobbing up and down on the hook. </li>
</ul>I plan to install a larger fuel filter inline on my fuel line, it can't hurt, and should help prevent getting trash into the carb. I already have one on my primary fuel line, but not on the Tohatsu line that came with the engine.

I also plan to run my engine dry each time, it doesn't seem to mind, all I did to restart it was plug in the fuel line, no pumping of the bulb, nothing, and just pressed the starter, it started right up. Of course there may still have been residual pressure in the bulb, I didn't check that before doing the attachment & start up. For the surprisingly long amount of time it takes to run the engine dry at fast idle, I can hook up the ears to it and run water through it at the same time and accomplish both tasks simultaneously.

I still need to change out the oil now. I wonder if synthetic is the way to go? Anybody have thoughts or recommendations on that? (as if asking for an opinion is necessary on this forum...hah!)

I have to say, I'm very relieved, and I really-really appreciate all the help and advice that I find on this forum. We may be a bunch of grumpy old curmudgeons, but we've got each other's backs.

Edited by - delliottg on 05/16/2008 09:25:49

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2008 : 09:38:38

Remember what I said in my first post, as delivered from the factory the idle speed was adjusted too low and the engine would not start or idle at zero throttle. A few slight turns of the idle speed adjuster fixed that. After a few hours of engine time I was able to back it down again.

Its just a little stop screw where the throttle cable connects to the carb.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2008 : 09:44:41

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2008 : 08:20:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JimB517
 Remember what I said in my first post, as delivered from the factory the idle speed was adjusted too low and the engine would not start or idle at zero throttle. A few slight turns of the idle speed adjuster fixed that. After a few hours of engine time I was able to back it down again.

Its just a little stop screw where the throttle cable connects to the carb.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

David,

Is what Jim described what happened?

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2008 : 09:46:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 ...I still need to change out the oil now. I wonder if synthetic is the way to go?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The [url="http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12484/147971.shtml"]Tohatsu Guru[/url] says no.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2008 : 18:21:38

Just an update to the updated update, while installing my [url="http://www.powertiller.net/"]PowerTiller[/url] today, I took the opportunity to check my oil while the cowling was off. There's definitely gas in there or at least that's what my nose is telling me. So I'll be changing it out before running the engine to test it with the PowerTiller. Thanks to DanM for pointing this out to me, I'm not sure it would have occurred to me otherwise.

I'll start a new thread about the PowerTiller install when I get done with it. I've only got the start & kill switches to wire and I'm done.

Edited by - on

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