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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Choosing a Halyard Lead Block		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Bortiquai
1st Mate

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88 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/20/2008 :  12:39:35  Show Profile
I have a 1980 Catalina 25 that I recently purchased. After sailing a couple times, I have noticed that the plastic sheaves on the halyard lead blocks are starting to crack and break apart. In going to West Marine and other stores, I haven't been able to match this block exactly. So I went to Harken.com and followed their little wizard thing and it recommended the Harken 1986.

The Harken 1986 doesn't look exactly like the blocks that are currently on the deck. Most noticably, what I currently have has 4 bolts that go through the deck. The Harken only has 2. Does anyone have any recomendations?

In case my termonolgy is wrong, these are the blocks that are at the base of the mast and re-direct the main and gib halyards to the deck organizer and on to the cockpit.

Thanks.
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3477 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2008 :  12:56:35  Show Profile
Maybe the Ronstan Single upright lead block RF1009hl?
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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3477 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2008 :  13:01:26  Show Profile
Mast base halyard lead blocks.

Looks like the Harken blocks like the 1986 work well. I think many people get a plate at the bottom of the mast to secure a block to and some boats came with this, which keeps a smaller footprint on the deck for lines to get hung on. Lots of people seem to use a stand up block also, which is probably easier on the feet. Less stubbing of the toes.
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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2008 :  13:23:16  Show Profile
My boat came to me with three deck mounted blocks that had failing sheaves. Using a dremel grinder, I removed the blocks with broken sheeves and replaced the entire block.
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2008 :  13:28:13  Show Profile
The problem with through-bolting a halyard lead block is that if you really crank the halyard, it pulls up on the block, which can flex the cabin liner below and allow the block base above to pull away from the deck and break its bedding seal. (There tend to be voids between the liner and the deck core.) The beauty of a mast base plate is the upward force is against the mast and rigging--a very small factor--and no holes to let moisture into the deck core. That said, what Harken recommends is probably very adequate. If you use the "overdrill, epoxy-fill, redrill) approach, it should avoid the flexing problem.
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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts
Response Posted - 05/20/2008 :  13:44:15  Show Profile
If you get the mast step halyard plate
(Catalina Direct: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1406) You can attach simple blocks to the holes in the plate along the side. This results in no holes in the top and no torque on some bolts through the top.
If you go this way, you should consider blocks that have a diameter of at least 40 mm but they will be dictated by the line size of your halyards.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.