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Outhaul and Reefing Rigging Questions

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BCBarron
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/12/2008 : 09:07:26

1st - Does anyone have a way or for that matter see a need to use an outhaul on the main's reef clew (when the main is reefed of course). It would seem that when the main is reefed you would still need the ability to control the sail shape, especially on a tall rig where a reefed main is comparable to a standard rig main?

With single handed reefing system, a cunningham, an outhaul, etc. the boom starts to get real busy. It might be pretty simple to use a hook on the reef clew to attach the single outhaul (like at a reef point) but that would sort of defeat the purpose of the single line reefing run to the cockpit.

2nd - With either an outhaul or a reefing system run at minimum to the base of the mast (cleat or other attachment is not located on the boom) it creates a asymetrical layout. Does the boom swinging from a close hauled position to a run position or vise versa impact the goemetry/length of the lines enough to potentially damage the system from overtensioning.

Obviously I do not have these systems installed yet but am starting to lay them out in anticipation of a new loose footed main with reef points (can't wait).

C-25, 1984 TRSK

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5906 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2008 : 10:23:41

I'm not sure I understand all the aspects of your question, but I'll start the discussion.

The outhaul is only useful when the mainsail is not reefed. When you tuck in your first full reef by pulling the reefing cringles down to the boom, the forward reefing cringle becomes, in effect, the "tack" of the sail, and the aft reefing cringle becomes the "clew" of the sail. Most C25s that were ordered with reefing gear (it was optional) had a cheek block mounted on the starboard side of the boom, near the outboard end of it. That block was positioned so that it pulled the sail aft at just the correct angle to give the mainsail a flat shape, while, at the same time, pulling the reefing cringle down close to the boom.

When you are sailing with a reef in the mainsail, you really don't need to adjust the shape of the sail. The objective is to make it flat, and thereby to reduce it's power. If you adjust it to make the sail more full, you'll be increasing its power. Tucking in a proper reef makes it flat, and when that has been done, you don't have to mess with it anymore. If the wind lightens, so that you are beginning to want more power out of the mainsail, it's time to start thinking about shaking out the reef, not adjusting its shape.

If you add a second reef, the single cheek block is no longer adequate. When you pull the second reefing cringle down to the outboard end of the boom, it will be situated farther forward than the first reefing cringle. As a result, the position of the cheek block will have to be moved forward, in order to pull the reefing line aft and downwards at the correct angle. You can accomplish that either by adding a second cheek block, or you can do as I did on my C25. I installed a 3' track on the boom, and by doing so, I could either adjust the position of a single cheek block, or I could install two cheek blocks. One was for the single reef, and the other was for the second reef.

Don't over-think the differences between the sail area of the standard rig vs. the tall rig. It isn't that complicated. All you really need to know, in that regard, is that the tall rig starts to become overpowered in 2-3 kts. less wind than the standard rig boat. In light to moderate winds, the tall rig is faster, but the standard rig loves wind, and becomes faster as the windspeed increases. If you reef earlier than the standard rig boats, you'll be able to keep up with them longer.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 06/12/2008 10:27:23

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2008 : 14:06:53

This is a little off subject but a couple of years ago I added two single-line reefing lines led forward to the mast end of the boom, then down to the mast base using double cheek blocks. I found that nobody makes double cheek blocks for 1/4" line so I fabricated one out of two singles. From the mast base the lines lead back to a double clutch near the starboard halyard winch. The two reefing lines are anchored on the starboard side of the boom and run forward on the port side. In a blow I can release the halyard and lower the main at the same time that I'm tensioning the appropriate reefing line. I've had to use it a number of times and it has worked flawlessly.

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knightwind
Navigator

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Canada
114 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2008 : 23:04:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 I'm not sure I understand all the aspects of your question, but I'll start the discussion.

snip

If you add a second reef, the single cheek block is no longer adequate. When you pull the second reefing cringle down to the outboard end of the boom, it will be situated farther forward than the first reefing cringle. As a result, the position of the cheek block will have to be moved forward, in order to pull the reefing line aft and downwards at the correct angle. You can accomplish that either by adding a second cheek block, or you can do as I did on my C25. I installed a 3' track on the boom, and by doing so, I could either adjust the position of a single cheek block, or I could install two cheek blocks. One was for the single reef, and the other was for the second reef.

snip

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I wondered how the second reef worked. Are you saying there's no way to use it without installing a second or sliding block? Could you just lash it to the boom "in a pinch"?

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2008 : 06:41:06

The problem is that you would need to lash it to the boom both down and outward. If you are in a situation where you need a second reef, you are not going to want to take the time to do both or to move the first reefing line to the second cringle. For safety, install the second cheek block and a second reefing line.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5906 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2008 : 08:20:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 The problem is that you would need to lash it to the boom both down and outward. If you are in a situation where you need a second reef, you are not going to want to take the time to do both or to move the first reefing line to the second cringle. For safety, install the second cheek block and a second reefing line.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I agree. Years ago, I tried it on Lake Michigan with my C22. I ended up hanging over the lifelines, trying to tie a line around the outboard end of the boom, while the boat was heeling and bounding over increasingly big waves. In addition, I had to use both hands to tie the reef line, and didn't have any hands left to hang onto the boat. It was a very unsatisfactory plan!

Edited by - on

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