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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Martin, Short of pulling hoses, there's no easy way to do this. Rita & I can empty the tank in about 20 minutes of pumping the faucets in the head & galley at the same time.
Before you do, a bleach solution in the tank will help prevent any nasty growths over the winter.
I have never had a marine head. Is there an advantage to emptying the waste tank and then flushing the freshwater through the head plumbing and then emptying the waste tank again? ... as a way to flush out the marine head system.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />I have never had a marine head. Is there an advantage to emptying the waste tank and then flushing the freshwater through the head plumbing and then emptying the waste tank again? ... as a way to flush out the marine head system.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yup, and then putting a few gallons of marine/RV antifreeze in the water tank, pumping it through to the head and sink, and "flushing" it into the holding tank.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Yup, and then putting a few gallons of marine/RV antifreeze in the water tank...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dave, are you referring to the potable water tank? I'm not so sure running antifreeze through that is a good idea. Even after flushing it out there would still be chemical residue that would be unhealthy at best. Antifreeze is lethal in concentration. Please elaborate.
On our boat, we (and by we I mean my dog & I) drink the water from the potable water tank. Rita won't drink it, but that's a different story. We don't have a head, we use a porti-potty, so flushing the system is just the head & galley faucets for us. Still, I wouldn't want to be drinking antifreeze contaminated water.
I'm sure that Dave's referring to the type of anti-freeze used in RV potable water systems. Here's an example: [url="http://www.peakantifreeze.com/rvmarine.htm"]Peak RV & Marine Antifreeze[/url]
Here in the Northeast it does freeze but I haven't drained the tank in years. Usually the tank is about half full at the end of the season and that is plenty of room for the water to freeze and expand. Although I only use the water for cleaning the less chemicals the better. Opening the valves is good idea but not necessary. So if your tank is topped off drain some, if it is half full you’re probably OK. I believe water expands approximately 10% when it freezes.
Actually Breezy, water is at its densest at 4 degrees celcius, and its volume expands from there to either form steam if it is heated, or as space within its crystalline structure as it freezes. It is this continued expansion that causes pressure ridges in frozen lakes in the winter. Of course I am referring to a Canadian deep freeze which I believe is more severe than your experience. But I digress.
You may want to consider a few options for draining the tank. Some of these are better than others.
Option 1 - Run a hose from the tank out the cockpit drains, and let it fall on the ground. Start a siphon and walk away. The 4 foot drop should be enough to drain most of the water.
If your tank doesn't have an access hole (mine does), you may be able to run clear plastic hose down into the filler and siphon it up and over the side of the boat. A small enough diameter hose should fit down into the tank. A small diameter would mean slower siphoning, but there is the allure of the "then walk away" step.
Option 2 - Same thing, only use the bilge, then pump away (unless you have an automatic bilge pump in which case you can walk away.)
Option 3 - Hire some kid to pump it for you. Then walk away.
Check your tank for an inspection/access port. Ours has a 3" hole in the top of it with a fitting. You may be able to open the port. Then you could use a manual bilge pump (or any other pump) to empty it. If you don't have such a hole in your tank - well, you're back to hiring a kid or siphoning.
We have a freshwater power washdown pump, so we just turn that on for 10 mins and the tank is empty. We have 2 tanks so when one is empty we switch over the supply valves and repeat for the second tank.
just another advantage of the power washdown pump!
If your boat is near a water spigot, simply lead your garden hose up into your boat then into the bottom of the water tank. Next, turn on the water at the spigot until it starts flowing into the water tank. Once it's flowing, turn off the water and disconnect the hose at the spigot. The water in the hose should then start the syphon.
An inexpensive garden hose on-off valve from HD or your local Ace Hardware allows you to fill your hose either at home or at the boat yard and carry it on-board with no or little water loss. Insert the end of the hose with the valve into the water tank with the other end on the ground. Open the valve to start the siphoning.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.