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Winter Boat Cover

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Downbucket
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USA
188 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/15/2008 : 20:34:40

Hi:

Here in Maine the time has arrived when we begin covering our boats for the winter. In August, 2005 I purchased Wingapo and in October made a frame over which I hung a tarp. The frame, now heading into its fourth year, is still in good shape although I need to replace a few pieces of the uprights.

My friend Michael (who helped me with the design and construction) and I modeled the frame after the one described in an article in Good Old Boat's November/December, 2004 issue titled "Winter Boat Enclosure." The steep pitch has kept the snow off of Wingapo for the past 3 winters. I'll briefly explain the process then post some pictures.

I used 1-inch x 3-inch strapping and sheetrock screws.

Uprights and Deck Band:
The uprights should be about 2 inches longer than the stanchions. Drill 4 holes into the uprights then attach the uprights to the outside of the stanchions using tie wraps. Now attach the deck band (which is a piece of strapping large enough to go from the bow to the stern) to each upright using the sheetrock screws. The deck band is attached to the outside of the uprights.

Ridge Setup and Center Posts:
For the ridge, use two pieces of strapping sandwiched together or a piece of 2x3 or 2x4. Now make three center posts. I used one on the bow, another just forward of the sliding companion way cover (forward enough to allow for opening and closing) and the third one on the cockpit seats. For the center post, measure from the top of your deck band at the widest beam. The post height should be half your beam plus 20%. Higher or lower depending on how high you want the pitch of your cover. (Mine is high enough so I can stand under the cover. This allows me to work on my boat in fall and spring). The more pitch the better. Now secure the ridge to the center posts using sheetrock screws.

Rafters:
For the rafters, cut pieces of strapping long enough to go from the ridge to the uprights and secure with sheetrock screws.

The frame is light weight and made to hold the tarp and shed the snow.

Cover:
Work the tarp over the frame. I use bungee cords, placed under the hull, to attach the two tarp sides together. Never lash the cover to the jack stands. I closed the bow and stern by rolling the two side together and using claps to secure the tarp. This allows for easy opening and closing.

Not sure if my explanation is clear. Hopefully, the pictures will help.

Good luck.

Will

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2008 : 19:00:20

Will -
I appreciate your description and photos.

Last winter, I used the tarp approach, however I did it mast up instead of mast down.

I used two large tarps bonded together at the mast with cutouts for the mast and the shrouds. Aft of the mast, I suspended the tarp over the boom and led it aft to the transom. Forward of the mast, I placed a piece of 1x2 from the mast to the bow pulpit at the same level as the boom.

I draped the edge of the tarps over the lifelines, and down over the gunwales. I used bungies under the hull to hold the tarp down.

Did you create the deck band to protect the stanchions against undue stress from heavy snow? You could imagine that a heavy weight of deep snow on the tarp would pull the stanchions in-board.

We had only a little snow here in Coastal Connecticut last winter, nothing like Maine, but I would like to create a steeper pitch this winter in case we get heavy wet snow.

How would you suggest I use your approach, but with the mast up and in the way of a single top ridge piece? I am not sure that by not having a straight, continuous piece of wood from bow to stern that I would get as strong a support member.

Your thoughts?

Edited by - on

John Russell
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3444 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2008 : 20:56:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Originally posted by Voyager
 Last winter, I used the tarp approach, however I did it mast up instead of mast down.

I used two large tarps bonded together at the mast with cutouts for the mast and the shrouds. Aft of the mast, I suspended the tarp over the boom and led it aft to the transom. Forward of the mast, I placed a piece of 1x2 from the mast to the bow pulpit at the same level as the boom.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">How did you bond the tarps together? I tried that last year and the wind got under the tarp and tore it off. What did you do about the backstay?<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">

I draped the edge of the tarps over the lifelines, and down over the gunwales. I used bungies under the hull to hold the tarp down.

Did you create the deck band to protect the stanchions against undue stress from heavy snow? You could imagine that a heavy weight of deep snow on the tarp would pull the stanchions in-board.

We had only a little snow here in Coastal Connecticut last winter, nothing like Maine, but I would like to create a steeper pitch this winter in case we get heavy wet snow.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The supports I made for mine failed last winter. Fortunately, I went out to check on the boat before the 18" of water formed by the tarp "pool liner" in the cockpit froze solidly. The ice was about 6" on top of a foot of water.

I've seen other boats covered with tarps that use water-filled gallon jugs suspended from the tarp overhanging the boat to hold the tarp down. I'd imagine that this would compensate for the snow load by allowing the tarp to move up and down while still maintaining shape. At least with the load we get in western Ohio.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 10/19/2008 : 01:26:42

John --
I installed an abundance of brass grommets along the overlapped edges of both tarps to create the bond. I had to do a few things as I put it together:

1. I started near the mast, and worked my way out from the center on both sides, making sure to snug up the overlap so that I did not get any sags.

2. I cut slots in the material to accommodate the shrouds. I used grommets to pull the slots back together once the tarp was in place over the shrouds. I used a short length of line to pull corresponding grommets together.

3. I ran a number of taut lines about 9" apart between the lifelines and the boom to prevent the tarp from creating deep pockets that could collect water and snow. I did collect some water and ice up toward the bow, so I put a small drain hole in the bottom of the pocket.

4. For the aft end of the boat, I took the excess tarp with its grommets and a long piece of line and wove the line from bottom left to top right, to bottom middle to top left to bottom right to far left to far right and snugged the whole thing down. There was enough slack to work around the backstay. This also became my entrance onto the boat up on stands throughout the winter, as it was easy to open and close.

Regarding the milk jugs full of water, I've used that approach on my 16 foot trailer sailboat.

As I mentioned above, instead "I used bungies under the hull to hold the tarp down." The bungy cords were attached to rope lines to provide some "give" in the tarps. Perhaps not as flexible as the gallon jugs, I was able to make them pretty snug tightening the lines against the bungies.

As I said, we did not have much snow last winter, so this approach worked well for me. Further, I spent a lot of time on the boat over the winter redoing the teak, so I didn't give whatever snow we had much of a chance anyway. As I plan to redo the electrical system this winter, I guess I will spend a lot of time there again.

I found that between the dark blue tarp, the warm sun and my Coleman stove, I could get the inside of the tent pretty warm and comfortable. Perhaps that helped to melt the snow.

Edited by - on

Downbucket
Navigator

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188 Posts

Response Posted - 10/19/2008 : 07:20:42

Bruce:

The deck band supports the tarp and helps the tarp keep its shape. Along with the pitch, this prevents pockets from forming which would trap water and snow.

Regarding the ridge, I don't think using one piece of wood is essential. My ridge is made up of two pieces that are supported by the center posts. (Sorry, I don't think my explanation was clear about that part).

The frame is not built for strength. It supports the tarp to help shed the snow. The key is "pitch."

Good luck.

Will

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5377 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2008 : 20:15:16

Got it

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tbosch
Navigator

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 10/22/2008 : 12:36:45

FYI: There is a related topic under the Cat 25 Specific forum.

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18727

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