Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Last night I picked up a "Car Hauler" for a great price and plan to use it for my twice-annual 8km (5 mile) trip to the launch crane.
The trailer came with surge brakes, which is new technology to me. Not long ago someone posted here with a method to test the brakes but I can't find that post now - care to redirect or repost?
Apart from moving the boat the trailer will be used for various other things which may involve heaviness and long drives at highway speeds and long descents. Does anyone have other tips for driving with surge brakes? (This is just new to me, and therefore scary.)
I assume that the surge breaks are hydraulicaly driven? If so this is what I have on my trailer. A piston located at the trailer tongue increases the hydraulic fluid presure which activate the breaks. The system is analog meaning that it will break more the more presure is applied to the tongue (by breaking the vehicle). A good way to test the system is with the trailer attached to the vehicle, back up and the breaks should come on to the point that you won't be able to back it up. This is especially true with weight on the trailer (like a boat). On the other hand this can be a problem if you need to back up the boat whilst on the trailer. Make sure you have a reverse setting near the trailer tongue that deactivates this effect. Alternatively some people have an electric switch that deactivates this effect based on the backup lights of the vehicle.
You're going to attach a steel cradle on the trailer? Make sure it is attached firmly with heavy duty straps and that it won't be moving aroudn when trailering.
The plan was to Bolt on the cradle when its time to move the boat. After that, the use of tie-downs should hold the boat in place. I wouldn't do this for a cross country trip but for the 8 km to/from the marina, I'm not too worried.
When I got the trailer home last night I backed it into its parking spot without issue, maybe I should have the brakes looked at. Are the wheel cylinders the same as those found on cars? Are replacement parts hard to find? I suspect that a brake job is in order for the trailer for 2 reasons. First it was cheap to buy it, second, the hubs of the leading tires were wet.
Usually the breaks are your standard drum types where you can maintain them by changing the inner shoe being actuated by the hydraulics. You should be able to find these at your local auto parts store. Have a look at this web site for more explanation on the operating principle. [url="http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm"]LINK[/url] Removing the wheel will give you access to the drum where you can proceed to dismount it and do a thorough cleanup.
Now having said that (and I'm going to get flamed for this by our self proclaimed resident trailer Nazi ) my trailer breaks are pretty shot and I rely mostly on my F150 for breaking power. Its looking more and more plausible (got new news) that I may be going cross country and will have my trailer breaks checked out prior. The problem with breaks is that the estimate can vary wildly from just changing the break shoes to a complete overhaul. Randy Kolb (Nautiduck) has changed his breaks to disc breaks, an option that I am seriously considering. Randy made a huge effort to document this very well here: [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15536&SearchTerms=discs"]LINK[/url] I understand that you have a good truck? If so, why spend all that money for just 8km on a slow country road?
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 10/22/2008 16:09:18
For the boat bit, I'm mostly not worried. Its for the "other stuff". I don't want to be pulling a nice car on it and run into trouble. My tow vehicle is not exactly ideal, and I am counting on the extra help from the trailer brakes.
Last week I made the descent into Bluffer's Yacht club in toronto with another trailer, and felt it pushing me all the way down to the lake. I don't know how comfortable I would be doing that road with this rig if the brakes aren't working.
Re brakes...boat trailers normally have hydraulic surge brakes, most RV/other trailers have electric brakes. Your tow vehicle should stop the tow vehicle and the trailer brakes should stop the trailer. Be very careful towing without proper brakes...in this litigous society, you can open yourself up to all sorts of liability issues.
You really don't want to have to brake hard with 3 tons pivoting on a ball behind you. Surge bakes work well, but physics mean that they must be less effective than the tow vehicle so that there is pressure on the actuator. The trailer brakes absorb part of the trailer's energy but should not be able to lock the wheels, that is as bad as an un-braked trailer. Electrics are probably better in most application, but circuits don't like water - especially salt. The advantage of disk brakes is not in single stops, but in their ability to dissipate heat so that you can stop the second time or brake repeatedly on a long grade without losing your brakes. And after all that, I still have surge brakes and am satisfied.
I have the Surge brakes as well, I put on 4 disks when I replaced everything last year. I live in the mountains, so I felt I need the extra juice. I had a deer jump out in front of me coming down from the lake two weeks ago. I still have not figured out how I missed it, but after really hard braking, he (or she?) cleared the front end. I was very happy with the brakes, it was impressive, for reference, I tow with a 2000 GMC 2500 4X4 eclb. If you were able to backup without needing to disable the brakes, they definitely are not working. Checkout Champion Trailers for parts etc. They helped me a bunch, good folks.. http://www.championtrailers.com/
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.