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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just purchased a 1979 Catalina 25 and there is rot at the base of the bulkhead port side about 4 inches high and 6 inches long. Is there a way to repair this with out replacing the bulkhead?
First find the source of the water leak causing the rot and fix it. Then think about a fix. Would you like to cover it or replace the area of rot. Since the whole bottom is not rotten you could rmove the bulkhead and scarf in a new section. You could remove the bulkhead and scarf in some plywood and then recover the bulkhead with a formika stip or cover the whole thing. How much time and money do you want to spend ? Fix it and hide it with a magazine or book holder. Build a shelf unit to hide it. Tons of ways to go. Is it a taditional interior ?
Welcome, TBG... (Got a name?) A common source of water that will rot the port interior cabin bulkhead (between the main salon and the head) is the upper shroud chainplate, which goes through the deck and bolts to the bulkhead. It's even more likely to be the problem if the rot is below that big ugly strap bolted to the bulkhead.
The fix to that leak is easy:
1. Remove the two screws that hold the deck plate that frames the chainplate, and slide it up on the chainplate.
2. Dig out whatever caulk you can from around the chainplate--watching for water damage to the plywood core in the deck.
3. Re-caulk liberally, including around and in the screw holes.
4. Screw the deck plates back down before the caulk sets up.
While some experts here argue against it, I used silicone for this job--to get maximum elasticity, since the chainplate tends to move within the slot as the shroud tension changes (such as from tack to tack). And while silicone degrades in sunlight, that's not a problem down in this little cavity under the plate.
As Douglas says, after you've solved this part, you can decide what to do about the damage it's done--it doesn't sound to me like it's structurally significant, and shouldn't expand once the leak is stopped.
Good luck, and enjoy your Cat!
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Doug, thanks for the creative solutions for hiding or eliminating the rot and Dave for identifying the source of the problem which I believe has been fixed. Tom Gillung, Ellington, Connecticut
Doug, I had a similar problem on the starborad side and I choose the full repair. I bought a piece of 1/2" plywood with teak facing on both sides (wow about $75.) I removed the old bulkhead, this was not too bad. I then used it for a template and cut out the new piece. I sealed the ends of the new piece with epoxy and stained and varnished the piece. The new piece fits perfectly and looks great. one 4X8 sheet of plywood will do the bulkhead both sides plus the side panel going forward. I tried patching but it looked like a patch. A little bit of extra time and it is great. hope this helps
I have a similar problem with my 1980 Catalina 25. The port side bulk head has some wood rot near the deck. I'm sure there was some leaking from the chain plates. I have a few questions about repair. First, do I need to remove the mast before making the repairs to the chain plate? Also, should it be removed before I remove the bulkhead wall for replacement. Someone mentioned 1/2" plywood w/ teak facing. Where can I get something like this. Never seen it at the local hardware stores. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Kevin Beck
Here's my rotten bulkhead thoughts and opinions thrown into the mix.
Yes, find the leak and be sure it's fixed. If the leak was from the upper shroud chainplate, consider removing the chainplate to inspect for crevice corrosion in the stainless steel at the deck level. I rebedded with either polysulfide or polyurethane, but that's just me. (I use silicon under my teak, so you just know I'm gonna be out of step.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>)
Although it's possible to scarf in a patch to replace only part of a bulkhead, I think that would be more work than replacing the whole thing.
The entire bulkhead is structural, not just the spot where the chainplate attaches. While working on just one chainplate at a time, you can leave the mast up (but of course don't use the boat). Set up a taut halyard to the nearest lifeline stanchion as a temporary shroud. If the bulkhead has to come out, the mast should be removed first.
I've never seen teak veneer plywood in stock on the shelf anywhere. A local boatyard sold me something in very dim light that turned out to be little more than teak colored contact paper over luan plywood. I wasn't pleased.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> Later, a local lumber yard (<i>real</i> lumber yard, not Low/Home Despot) said they could special order teak veneer plywood for about $50-$100/sheet depending on thickness. Beware that such plywood may or may not be exterior grade. Ask.
Another possibility would be to use high quality marine grade plywood, and carefully paint it either white or try to match the interior beige. The result can look pretty classy along with the fairly traditional look of the C-25 interior. (As opposed to the more antiseptic, teak-free, Tupperware look of newer boat interiors which already suffer from too many white surfaces.)
Welcome to the wonderful world of Catalina 25 ownership, TGB!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> -- Leon Sisson
If the rot is somewhat localize in a small area, I would just repair the damaged area.
First, I would remove the bulkhead and trace the outline of it to make a pattern. Next, I would do a straight line cut(must be very straight) to remove all of the rotted material from the bulkhead, then lay it down over the previously traced bulkhead pattern to get the pattern for the replacement piece. Using the pattern, cut out the replacement piece.
For the replacement piece, you could use teak plywood, or make your own with plywood/MDF and teak veneer. If you make your own, make it oversized, then using the pattern, cut out the replacement piece.
To secure the replacement piece to the bulkhead, drill holes for dowels in both pieces using a doweling jig, then with waterproof glue and clamps, put the two pieces together.
This doweled and glued joint should be very strong. I made end tables out of solid oak and the only fasteners I used were dowels(no nails, screws,...etc) and carpenter's glue. I used 122 dowels per table and these tables are so strong that I can use them as jack stands for my truck!
With all the talk about "scarfing" I note that often small plywood boats can have pieces butted with a backing plate or butt plate, and see no reason this would not work just fine, would leave a butt joint line on the after side of bulk head which could easily be dressed with a trim piece or piece of furniture, as mentined above, this would be MUCH easier for the amateur (like me) to do than a scarf, which is an excellent thing but a little complicated to do without some specialized tools for the job, good luck, ron srsk Orion SWFL
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.