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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Capri 25 Specific Forum

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Andy_334
Navigator

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USA
206 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/23/2008 : 18:42:30

Well, it seems the idea has generated way more concerns about safety and prudence than I had anticipated. I also see a general "health warning" on the site. So I have removed this original post.

Edited by - Andy_334 on 05/17/2009 08:00:25

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/24/2008 : 10:08:56

Just be careful when the mast gets below 45 degrees because you start to lose the angle between the mast and halyard. Can you say, "Timmmm-berrrr"?

Found that one out the hard way.

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 11/24/2008 : 10:24:18

I would think you could do the same thing with the normal A-Frame setup. Also, would help with the angle as stated by Don. I do like the idea of dropping the mast at the dock. I think it might be a good idea to do a week prior to pulling the boat. Would allow for more time to get things put away without the hassle of climbing the ladder.

Could someone share a mast cradle that would work while at the dock. Would like to have something that would allow the rudder to stay in place.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 11/24/2008 : 13:00:17

Andy, I have used this method also, but backwards. I used the gib halyard, attached my genoa sheet to the end of the halyard, and ran this thru a block on the forstay tang, the angle is fine, the rudder on the capri25 is under the boat, a cruch is needed, but not required as the person holding the mast and his beer gets a little stressed as you pull the pin

Note; I will post more details when I can on this
No dock required, I did this on our mooring.

Edited by - Ericson33 on 11/24/2008 13:03:12

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/26/2008 : 11:07:33

I made a mast crutch 8' tall out of 2x4's with a bow roller at the top. Trick is to have a cross piece at the bottom the same length as the space between the cockpit seats to prevent side to side pivot and another one secured to the sides of the stern pulpit. Also secure the 2x4 to the traveler. To keep it from pivoting front to back, secure the base by running a line through the scuppers and tie at the crutch post. If you want to be able to use the tiller, you could make the crutch rectangular, same width as between the cockpit seats.
On You Tube, there is a video by a C-25 owner who has to lower his mast to get under a bridge to go sailing. He uses a metal conduit A-frame and had a mast crutch made out of stainless steel tubing, in a squared "U" shape, that he attached to the uprights on his stern pulpit (pushpit). I really like that one.

Edited by - on

Andy_334
Navigator

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USA
206 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2008 : 17:47:16

I should have mentioned the we also use a crutch, much the same as dmp mentioned above.

Don, yep. We were worried about the angle/pressure as well. However, we know the lines are all in good condition so we took the risk.

Edited by - on

mrapkins
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2009 : 08:10:18

Apparently, I am the only one missing something!

Attach extended jib halyard to cleat on dock and also to cabin-top winch????

Edited by - on

Andy_334
Navigator

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USA
206 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2009 : 20:19:12

Yep. One end on the dock, then grind the other end using the winch.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2009 : 08:17:58

Regarding Don's concern, <i>please</i> don't let the "afterguard" stand directly under the mast, regardless of how good you think your lines are. There's a point where the halyard and the mast are close to parallel where the leveraged force on the halyard is huge, and the slightest stretch will cause a free-fall. (A gin-pole substantially reduces this risk.) And using the dock as you do, if the boat shifts forward just a few inches at that point, which it will try to do, down she'll come! Don't let anyone get careless because of how easy it looked before.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/16/2009 08:23:58

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2009 : 06:47:08

One more thing Dave - the line is under such tension, if/when it lets go and somebody happens to be in line with it, or attached hardware, it becomes a literal missle.

Even a plain piece of line without a clip can cause serious injury to anybody it hits.

Hate to learn that one the hard way.

Edited by - on

Andy_334
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
206 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2009 : 07:00:58

Well, it seems the idea has generated way more concerns about safety and prudence than I had anticipated. I also see a general "health warning" on the site. So I have removed the original post.

Edited by - Andy_334 on 05/17/2009 07:59:28

leebitts
Navigator

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USA
122 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2009 : 17:37:28

I launched LeeBitts this past weekend. This is my second launch of the boat. I am very very pleased with what I came up with regards mast raising. Last year (1st year with the boat) was a horror show. I was a bit short handed so did not have a camera going. If anyone wants pics I can come up with something. Anyway, here's what I did.

1. Out of a 2x4 I fashioned a mast roller. This roller was 7 feet tall, at the top I had a pretty standard boat trailer roller, being attached by standard trailer "L" bolts. I bought the roller and the "L" bolts at my local pontoon boat store. Mine looks pretty primative.
2. The mast roller had a 2 ft wide base (out of a 2x4) and when I installed it, I placed it against the base of the rudder, then leaned it against the stern rail and I secured it with line.
3. The mast had been suspended between the stern rail and the bow pulpit. I raised (one person) the mast onto the roller.
4. With another person we rolled the mast aft, so that the base was located at the mast step.
5. We removed all lower mast hardware (I have a "Boom kicker") and given that removal the mast fit perfectly in the mast step. The bolt went through great.
6. I fashioned previously an "A-Frame" out of 1 1/2" aluminimum schedule 40 pipe.
7. I'll send pics if requested but at the "tip" of the "A" I had drilled a hole that went through both pipes and inserted a bolt. attached to the bold, I had cut some chain, about 6 inches for the top, and 6 inches for the bottom.
8. At the outside edges of the A, I used the same "L" bolts that I bought at a pontoon boat shop. These were attached to some 2 x 6 that I configured to be braced for an aft push to the stay bases.
9. We attached 2 jib halyard to the chain on the a-frame and raised it so that the a-frame was at 90 degrees.
10. To the bottom of the a-frame chain we attached a cable that was attached to the tongue exteion of the trailer. I drilled and tapped screws holes for the winch in the tongue extension.
11. The cable ran from the trailer extension, through the bow pulpit to the a-frame bottom.
12. We had 2 folks on deck (with the boat on the trailer) and a third person cranking the winch.
13. No-one broke a sweat, mast went up no problem
14. The mast wene up really nice, for next year I want to figure out how to get the clevis pin that attaches the forestay to go in easier.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2009 : 20:47:14

Wow! Excellent! Did you ease the forestay turnbuckle before inserting the pin? Then tighten it the same number of turns...?

Edited by - on

leebitts
Navigator

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USA
122 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2009 : 03:22:34

I have a roller furler so cannot back off on the forestay (at least that I can see).

Edited by - on

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