Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So, I have had enough of the cross-handed, poor excuse for a windward sheeting traveler and have come up with a replacement. I am mounting a 4" X 1" "U" Channel T52 aluminum cleat 2" forward of the port lazarette hatch then directly across to the strbd side thru bolted and affixed to a 6"x4" .25 aluminum buttplate with SS 5/16" bolts secured. The cleat legs have been transversely drilled at 1" from each end with 5/16 holes to accommodate 5/16 x 1.5" SS clevis pins. When we are headed out to go sailing I will drop in the traveler car affixed to a raised track which is 3' 3 3/8" in length (see mauripro sailing harken windward sheeting system 2), secure it to the cleats with the 4 clevis pins (two each side), snap the standing end of my harken 8:1 mainsheet system to the midboom bail and head out. When I am at the dock and don't want the "kneeknocker" cutting off the cockpit, I will pull the pins and store below. Only discomfort will be when I stub my toe on the cleats. Anybody do similar??? I don't want to mount it on top of the cabintop as personal preference. Here is the link to the harken windward sheeting car system 2; http://mauriprosailing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MPS&Category_Code=HARTRASYS2
Derek, I ruminated over that option but would prefer to have the purchase for the mainsheet low when driving from the rail and I think that the maintrimmer and helmsperson (me) will be able to communicate better going around the buoys. So, I sent my list to Santa. Then, I got together with my machinist friend and we made up the cleats deciding to use SS 1/2" X 1.5" clevis pins vs push pins to secure the track. I am using 1/2 SS bolts, thru the cockpit seat then, used G10 as a buttplate epoxied underneath for reinforcement.
I still prefer mine (look in C25 Tech Tips: click on the bimini), which gives me functionally as much travel as at the stern because of the angle at mid-boom, is more out of the way, and looks better. The mainsheet is more in the companionway than swanny/atgep's, but that's not been a problem for egress. It also preserves the bulkhead as a backrest.
I don't race, but the PHRF measurer for our area, a good sailing friend, said he would not change my boat's PHRF, because he thought it neither advantage nor disadvantage.
Brooke, I know that when I installed a full width mid-cockpit traveler on Judy's old C22 (the one we sank!!) it became a license to steal! I estimated that it was worth an extra 5 -6 secs a mile. Fortunately, the PHRF committee never got around to a re-rating. With that experience, and as chairman of our PHRF committee, I'd definitely re-rate you. (Sorry)
Not a problem, Derek, since I don't race. But mine is anything but a "full-width traveler:" look at the pics. And, the Capri 25 sail has less sail area than the C25TR sail. So if the next owner wants to race, he/she will have to either deal with the PHRF stuff or put the old traveler and a TR sail on.
But I DO enjoy the bimini, which, IMHO, is better done than most of the other TR bimini's out there which make it pretty difficult to go forward on deck or to be shaded at the back of the cockpit. To each his/her own.
If you use Harken's "high beam track" you can span across the cockpit. That's what the high track is made for.
I've kept the stock set up if I ever get a chance to go to the nationals. Otherwise... I'd gladly take a PHRF hit.
I've sailed this set up for 2 seasons now and haven't found the turning blocks necessary in any sail configuration or wind load.
If you're going to the expense of a new traveler, by all means, make it as wide as you can whether you race or not. It makes the boat much more enjoyable to sail.(IMHO)
Andy, thanks for the encouragement. I bought the same setup as you but with the endblock for a 4:1. Today I mounted the raised track on a 1"x1"x1", .125 thick walled aluminum U channel. This channel will then be inserted into two stainless 6" "cleats" that have two 1.25" clevis pins for securing the track and allowing it to be removeable. To dampen the metal on metal, I made a dampener of 1/4" nylon sheet expoxied to the inside of the "cleats". Works slick at least on my workbench. I'll have to wait until late April to test drive but am encouraged.
Your mounting system sounds trick. I really like the removable aspect...you might figure how to lock the pins somehow. Don't make it too easy to take home!
Adding that traveler was the best goodie I've added. The stock traveler is a joke.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.