Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Zillions of threads on this in the archives. The C25 handbook says up, many users say down (reason #1 being prevention of catastrophic damage from a keel falling because of cable breakage). I pull mine up because I'm in saltwater and believe up lessens corrosion on the pendant (and the instructions say up, and the PO said up, and the boat's had five cables in 24 years). If I were in fresh water, it would be a no brainer: absolutely down. Search the archives.
Also: I believe in zincs (magnesium alloy in fresh water) on the keel if you stay in water for the season - I am fresh in the summer and salt in the winter and am on my second set in 3 years. The book says one on each side near the pivot, and I believe in a a third near the cable attachment.
Hi Tod... I believe Val Bisagni (Tnob) experienced <i>two</i> sinkings before he converted his swing to a wing. In salt water, up vs. down is a tough choice--perhaps why Catalina advised against keeping the swinger in salt water.
To mount zincs, you should drill and tap the cast iron for some short bolts. Don't use the normal "NevrSeize" on the threads--you want metal-to-metal contact. You can use stainless bolts--they are just conductive enough--to ease removal and replacement later.
I would find it interesting to know how many have had a cable break, but I doubt that we could ever get a reliable number. Inspect your cable and its attachment every season and replace it if there is any question or if 5 years (some suggest more frequently) has elapsed. You can buy cables from CD or have them made by a rigger for less. I use zincs, it may be voodoo, but I've never had a problem - the underwater parts have always looked good and my winch isn't corroded. The keel drills and taps pretty easily - two holes for each teardrop zinc when the boat is out of the water, and mount the zincs so they are facing forward when the keel is down. I can give you WM part numbers later, along with hints and a diagram if you want.
CD has the cable and related parts. They recommend replacing every two years. Compared to the price of repair, it is a small fee as part of preventative maintenance practice.
CD is convenient and good products, but I had mine made at my marina for half the price. I'll try to email a diagram tomorrow. WM part that I use (3): <b>Hull Anode - 3 1/2"L x 1 3/4"W x 1 3/8" thickness 110312 CMT20 Only $6.99 USD</b>
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.