Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Last time we were down at the boat, there wasn't enough charge on the battery to start the engine. Admittedly we'd left a breaker on the whole time, but nothing running. My new cigarette lighter battery level gizmo said I had about 12.1 volts in the battery which is around 40-50% discharged. I pull started the engine & left it running for about half an hour to get a bit of a charge on the battery. I also cleaned the contacts and cells on the solar panel & checked to make sure it was making a circuit to it's regulator right at the battery. It had been fairly overcast & cold for several weeks prior to that, so it's possible that it was just a perfect storm of conditions causing the discharge. I plan to go down again this weekend to check on it and other things.
Presuming that it's time for a new battery, what are your recommendations? I eventually want to move my battery(s) up front to replace some of my lead weights, but that's a project for next winter, not right before the season starts.
I'm thinking an Optima Blue top deep cycle AGM battery, are their others I should consider?
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
There was a pretty good thread on batteries a while back if you want to do a search.
I toasted 2 deep cycles in 2 years until I got myself a decent solar panel. Even with nothing on the presets on the stereo were enough to drain it over a few weeks and an insufficient panel couldn't keep up. What a pain!!! Glad I took OLarryR's suggestion and went to and bought a 45 watt panel and good controller. Problem solved!
My new boat was delivered with two blue Optimas--I was never sure whether they were really AGM's as I had ordered--the labels didn't say. They were both dead when the boat was delivered, and shortly afterward the engine cooked them both--sulfurous gas was boiling out. I needed a quick replacement and wanted to study the AGM thing further, so picked up two wet-cells from Defender. They have been perfect for two years. I may never know what really happened with the Optimas (they went back to the boat builder), but I probably won't be buying more of them. YMMV.
I too replaced my batteries(2) after after motor would not start -after 6yrs of use. I had group 24 marine deep cycle. I replaced them with the same type but instead of buying from WM and paying twice as much, I got them from an auto parts store(Kragan). I just could not see paying an arm and a leg for those fancy AGM(<u>A</u>nd there <u>G</u>oes my <u>M</u>oney) ones. Steve A
Ditto on the Wally-World group 24 battery, but I don't know whether it is truely an 80 AH battery, or little shy of that number. Works fine though.
Funny thing about our boats, even if everything is turned off, if your battery isn't physically disconnected from the house circuit over the winter, the battery will discharge.
This comes from at least two possible sources: (1) self discharge - this is a standard part of lead-acid battery physics. Batteries will lose 5-10% of their charge each month, and cold weather can accelerate it, and (2) any "keep alive" circuit in your electronics like radios, VHF, GPS or DC-to-AC inverters (even if they're turned off).
Doing the numbers: if a GPS takes a paltry 50 mA continously for 4 months (2900 hours) this adds up to 145 AH! and certainly a dead battery. If a battery remains discharged for any length of time, it will become sulfated. This is more or less an irreversible failure mode for a lead-acid battery.
In recognition of this, I kept my battery in <i>Passage</i> over the winter while being up on the hard, and I left my 15W solar panel connected, using the solar regulator. I've been working on the electrical panel through the winter, and use an inverter to drive a 13W CFL more or less each weekend.
Each weekend, I might use 10-12 AH and by the time I get back the following week, the battery is topped up. This approach seems to work out well. However, if I just left it there without the solar panel, it would be DEAD now.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> self discharge - this is a standard part of lead-acid battery physics. Batteries will lose 5-10% of their charge each month, and cold weather can accelerate it <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bruce...Actually cold weather greatly slows self discharge. I store my battery (1-Group 27; Costco) in our detached garage over the winter which stays between 28-32ºF throughout the winter. Out of curiosity I monitored its discharge this winter. Initial voltage (Dec) was 12.84V. After the first month it had dropped to 12.81V and to 12.74 after the second. At that point I charged the battery and attached a solar 5W panel.
I am going to put a new battery in my boat, originally had 2.
One is a Diehard starting battery that is toast and the 2nd is a 2001 Everstart Deep Cell Marine group 24 from Walmart that still has a bit of spark, but is certainly time for a replacement.
Have to admit that I am leaning towards a sealed battery though....Still looking....
The main danger of cold weather is that if the battery <i>does</i> discharge far enough, it can freeze. (Big problem.) AGMs (lead-acid) supposedly self-discharge less than a percent a month--a friend leaves his on the boat all winter with no fear of freezing or need to trickle-charge.
We already have a solar panel with a controller, so that's not the problem. I took my regular battery charger down to the boat today & put a float on it. After about 90 minutes of charging, I had almost exactly 13 volts on the battery. We had to get back home, so I left the charger on the boat (unplugged) for next time we get down there. I think we might be able to put off a new battery for a while, but the next trip down there should tell.
Well, the next trip down there turned out to be sooner than I thought. About 11pm last night I realized we'd left the cabin breaker on, with the volt meter running. Not exactly what I wanted to do. Fortunately after a night of snow, it turned out to be a beautiful warm-ish day, with actual sunlight. By the time I got to the boat this afternoon, it was shirtsleeves weather, and the solar panel was cooking away. The volt meter was indicating a bit over 13VDC, and a bit more after I oriented the panel directly at the sun. I think the battery's OK for the time being, but I'll keep an eye on it.
This weekend I swallowed a pill and decided that instead of farting around, I'd just replace stuff and be done with it.
Iris now has a 115 AH Deep Cycle and an 85 AH starter/deep cycle. total bill came in just around $250. Took the old Batteries in with me, one was dead. I figure the good one must have been discharging across to the dead one. When I put th enew batts in, they read 12.8 V. So now they are sitting in the boat with the trickle charger on them.
What is interesting is that I had another DC that I thought was dead and I left sitting outside all winter next to the garage. When I had the other 2 batts in for testing I had them throw that one on the machine as well, and it tested OK. It is now in the Garage as a backup.
I'm wondering if I have a problem with my set up as well. I have a solar panel mounted on the aft stay and a single battery. I've had no problem with power, all I run is cabin lights and the auto bilge pump but last Sunday the cabin lights were real dim...I'm hoping the next time I go out there they will have recharged.
I have an old walmart deep cell marine battery (Everstart) that is 8 years old and I thought it was toast, but have had the trickle charger on it for the last week and it appears to be holding a charge. I need a new voltmeter, but when a test light is put on it, it is very bright and does not diminsh over 5 minutes....Still, I am opting for a new battery and may just replace with the same. Heck 8 years old!
I left the battery off the charger last night, so it will be interesting to see after 24 hrs how it is doing! Then again, my goal from now on will be to have a solar charger in use.
You can "test" your Group 24 battery's reserve Amp Hours using a simple test.
Charge your battery to full, which is about 12.6 volts once it settles down.
Run two 1.5A (18W) incandescent cabin lights for 10 hours, which would be about 30 AH.
Let the battery sit for a half hour, then measure the battery voltage.
If it's above or around 12.2 volts, the battery's Amp Hour capacity is fine, but if it measures below 12.0 volts, then Houston, we have a problem.
It means that that the AH rating for your battery is below 80 AH, which could be due to age, sulfation or low electrolyte. To remedy, you can use a special charging procedure to try and de-sulfate the battery or you can check your electrolyte level.
One of the Forum members offered a link to the special battery charging procedure to rid your battery of sulfate build up, you might try a search for that entry.
Oye, oye, WM now has group 24 batteries on sale. $40 off. Time to stock up! Steve A PS too bad they are not on sale couple months ago when I needed them and bought elsewhere.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.