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Bilge Cover Delaminating

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C25Guy
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/06/2009 : 15:16:57

My main cabin bilge cover has delaminated and curled up so it no longer lays flat. Not sure why it was able to last this many years but then destroy itself over the last 6 months. My bilge is drier now than anytime that I've had the boat...

Anyway, has anyone had this problem and how did you solve it? I'm thinking of just finding some plywood, cutting it to size, and slapping on a few layers of cetol or something to get me back in business. Any clever ideas out there that I haven't thought of? It wasn't that much of a thing of beauty to begin with, so I don't feel a huge need to salvage it if there's an easier way.

Here's the underside:

Alan
"Maggie Mae"
C-25 #2815 SR/SK

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 15:53:02

Alan,
Judging from that mending plate on the backside, it's already seen better days. Get yourself a nice piece of marine ply & make a new one. Get at least a couple coats of epoxy on it before you lay on the Cetol & it'll probably be good for the next couple of decades with the occasional maintenance coat of Cetol.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 16:13:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by C25Guy
 My main cabin bilge cover has delaminated and curled up so it no longer lays flat. Not sure why it was able to last this many years but then destroy itself over the last 6 months. My bilge is drier now than anytime that I've had the boat...

Anyway, has anyone had this problem and how did you solve it? I'm thinking of just finding some plywood, cutting it to size, and slapping on a few layers of cetol or something to get me back in business. Any clever ideas out there that I haven't thought of? It wasn't that much of a thing of beauty to begin with, so I don't feel a huge need to salvage it if there's an easier way.

Here's the underside:

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I added 1x1 stringers down both sides, but it looks like you may be ready for something new. If you have carpet then you can go with starboard but if you don't have carpet then starboard is pretty slick. Buck lumber of Florida may have a Holly and Teak scrap that would work.

http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/marine_lumber.htm

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 16:29:51

Half-inch plywood, preferably marine grade, cut to match and bevel the edges as required, apply stain if you wish and then about 6 coats of spar varnish. If under carpet, don't worry about the stain. Oh yeah, be sure to close up any holes along the edge with wood putty.

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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1778 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 22:04:13

The same think happened to me. My solution was to take it to a marine carpenter who, for $50 made an exact replica from teak plywood -- looks like new. If you are not near a marine carpenter then check out a cabinet maker. My guy loves this type of project -- easy and uses up scrap wood from larger projects.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 22:39:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 ...Get at least a couple coats of epoxy on it before you lay on the Cetol & it'll probably be good for the next couple of decades with the occasional maintenance coat of Cetol.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Cetol is a fairly soft finish--probably not great in a high-wear spot like a floorboard, and will probably do even worse on top of epoxy.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2009 : 23:27:02

I was going to tout the finish on my tiller after three coats of epoxy & another three of Cetol, but that'd be the one that broke off in my hand the last time I used it.

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DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 08:20:52

I had the same problem and replicated one out of standard 3/4" plywood. No need for marine plywood here, it won't come in contact with water unless you're sinking and you should have a few coats of some kind of sealing something, I used a marine varnish. Looks great, cost me $10.00 maybe.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 11:12:46

Love that teak and holly

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C25Guy
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 11:29:23

That is a thing of beauty, Frank. Did you stain it with soy sauce?

I'm thinking I'll go with the prettiest piece of plywood at Lowes. Then, I'll decide between the Cetol that I currently have and some real varnish. I kind of don't want to own any varnish at all out of fear that I'll become one of those varnish people...spending even more hours working and less playing...

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 11:42:28

I'm just curious what the soy sauce is used for? Coloring?

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2009 : 18:16:48

Inside a boat is not inside a house. If you don't use exterior plywood, or even if you do, coating the entire piece with epoxy will prevent moisture intrusion. Even high humidity can eventually cause interior rated plywood to delaminate. On the plus side, several coats of slow cure epoxy will self level and give a durable, varnish like finish.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.