Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm installing a new mount and I think I can move it's location more towards the center of the boat. The current mount is about 4" from the port side of the boat. Is there some rule of thumb about how high/low it should be (the motor is a 20", not 25") and what kind of clearance there should be between the motor and the rudder?
Ed HisHorse 1979 SR/SK #1393 Green Cove Springs, FL
You will want the cavitation plate just above the prop to be well under water when the motor is in the down position. As a practical guide, you'll want the bottom of the mounting plate on the motor mount to be almost in the water when the motor is in the lowest running position. Several issues, does the new mount have the same vertical travel as the old? When you turn the tiller hard over, you don't want the rudder to make contact with the prop. If the new mount's rails are wider than the old one, maybe you can use one or more of the outside holes and still get the motor a little closer to center without getting too close to the prop. When I replaced the mount on our C25 (starboard side), I was able to use the 2 holes closest to center, fill the other 2 holes, and drill 2 more a bit farther out, which worked for us. I could not go lower because of the shelf on the inside of the transom.
Don't forget that your boat will "squat", lowering the stern when under power. I wish I'd checked for that first when I installed a new mount, electrical connector and motor. The connector that was above water when the hole was drilled at rest is sometimes submerged under power. I know it's supposed to be waterproof but...
I would think you need to make sure that the rudder and motor will not hit each other when hard over towards each other. I can mount my rudder tomorrow and let you know how close they come to each other. I can also post picutres. Let me know if this would help.
I would also consider the possible conflict with the engine cover hitting the upright rail on the stern rail when the engine is tilted up and leaned over. Also if not an electric start are you going to have trouble getting a good pull on the cord. Might have a conflict with the traveler bar or back stay. Any particular reason for moving the engine? It would seem to help keep the prop in the water when broadsided by a wake and the boat rocks but I can't think of an other reason.
I don't really have a good reason for moving the mount other than it is so far to port that the motor itself hangs past the port side of the boat when down and I'm installing a new mount. I won't get another chance very soon. In the current configuration, with the rudder full to starboard and the engine full to port, there is about 15 inches between the prop and the rudder. The motor is a 9.9 4 stroke Yamaha and the mount is a narrow stainless thing with 4 springs, two of which are broken. It looks like a cross between the motor mounts on Catalina direct but without stainless tubing.
So you don't know what it is? Do you know its capacity?
Edit: Ohhhhh... I'm suspicious you have the very old Fulton aluminum mount with two flat bars very close to each other... If so, Y<b>OU SHOULD NOT USE THAT MOUNT FOR A YAMAHA 4-STROKE ENGINE!!!</b> It is SEVERELY too weak, and could fold and break under the combination of thrust and weight. (Fulton currently rates that bracket for a 5 hp 4-stroke engine, which is tiny compared to yours.) Catalina put them on way back when 8-horse 2-strokes weighed 65 lbs. and had barely enough thrust to push the boat--and even then, they quickly changed to the stainless tubular Garhauer brackets that they used for the rest of the run (up to 1991). Catalina Direct sells an upgraded version of the Garhauer bracket. Check it out.
If you have not purchased a new mount yet, buy the Garhauer mount from Catalina Direct. I think it is the best design for the C25. The 3 spring model is fine for the newer 4 stroke 9.9 motors under 100 lbs. The 4 spring model is overkill unless your motor is well over 100 lbs. If you bought a Fulton model 1810 or 1820, take it back to the store if you can, otherwise contact me before you start your installation. I can save you a lot of grief.
Ed that is the same one that I have my 10 horse Honda on. I have a small vang hooked to it to help lift it up. The springs are under powered, but the bracket is solid. I have replaced the original wood board with the composite board from CD
Yes but it’s not the one from CD. I have a ½” thick aluminum plate that I cut same shape as the composite. I have the two items buddied up together. I think the backer plate (especially with a heavy outboard) is a good idea, and if you’re a salty (I’m not) you will probably want stainless.
It's also important to round the corners of the backer, and even round or bevel the edges slightly where they will meet the fiberglass. This reduces the point-loading you can get from corners against a slighly curved or irregular surface.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.