Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Besides the recommendations in the owner's manual, what are the important things y'all do to keep your outboards lasting long and running happy? I'm dealing with the classic mechanic dilemma- he says I should do it all, or there may be dire consequences. And do you ever let anyone come out to work on your boat at the marina if you're not there?
If you're sailing in salt water it's essential that you rinse the engine in fresh water after every trip, and change the oil when it starts to appear yellow.
I'm dealing with the same problem, the OB is now a year old, I've run about 3 or 4 gallons of gas through it so it hasn't been used much, it's a short distance to "sails up". Do I do the full annual maintenance? I can see changing the oil, a good idea on a new engine but how far do I go on the maintenance list.
Also, I expect to be running in saltwater in the future, any suggestions on reaching the water intakes with the earmuffs without getting in the water?
My annual maintenance list consists of: Change engine oil. Change lower unit oil and inspect for water in oil. Replace spark plugs (cheap insurance) Replace fuel filter (every two years.) Lube all moving components including the cowl latch, throttle mechanism, tiller pivot, choke mechanism and shift linkage. Spray WD40 on all stainless steel hardware.
I also check the valve clearance and adjust every two years. I would inspect the impeller after 3 years or 300 hours whichever comes first. If you are in salt water, and don't flush regularly, I would run one of the salt flushing products through my cooling system annually as well.
Other maintenance may be required dependent on how your engine is running. (Carb adjustments, shift linkages, etc.) If you don't have one I would install an in-line fuel filter before the fuel pump. Most engines have them between the pump and the carb. One of the plastic ones they sell for VW engines works well.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Also, I expect to be running in saltwater in the future, any suggestions on reaching the water intakes with the earmuffs without getting in the water?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
One method I have seen used is to tilt the engine up, place a 5 gal paint bucket (tied from above) over the prop and cooling vents and lower the engine. Make sure the engine is in neutral and secure a hose to the bucket handle (velcro strap works well) so you can continually fill the bucket with fresh water without the hose falling out. Fill the bucket and leave the hose on. Start and flush the engine. You have to adjust the height of the bucket after you fill it with fresh water but it is much more manageable once the bucket is filled. The bucket should be submerged in sea water almost to the top once you have filled the bucket.
Mechanics and engine dealers have told me:<ul><li>Add stabilizer to every tank of gas. (I use Marine Stabil <i>and</i> Startron, but my current engine cost twice my C-25)</li><li>Don't run the carburetor dry--it's better to have stabilized gas in there than the residue that will turn to varnish.</li><li>Add a water separator (Racor)--the bigger the better, to minimize flow resistance. (I'd recommend that over a little in-line filter, for several reasons.)</li><li>Replace the thermostat and impeller at least every two seasons, especially in salt water.</li></ul>
Steve, my bucket has about a four foot loop line tied to each side of it. With the engine tilted up and holding the loop, I use my extended boat hook to lower the bucket over the prop and secure the loop over the engine cowling. Then I lower the engine back down, fill the bucket with fresh water, and run the engine for 3 to 5 minutes. To remove the bucket, I loosen the loop, push the bucket down from the prop shaft, then hook the loop with the boat hook and pull it up out of the water. If this isn't clear I'll post a pic.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Sloop, good idea but the problem is reaching over the stern to the water intake.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hey, I never said it was easy. Frank seems to have a reasonable approach though. Gotta be better than trying to line those rabbit ears up.
I just spent some bucks getting my 1999 Nissan outboard's fuel lines replaced and carbureter cleaned. Alcohol in the fuel attacked the inside of the fuel hoses and the resulting little flecks of rubber (or whatever material it is) clogged up the carbureter. The fix is new lines that are marked "Alcohol Resistant". I also found a Shell gas station that sells gas not contaminated with alcohol. The other alternative is to use <font color="red">Red</font id="red">label Stabil fuel additive, according to my mechanic. The mechanic told me he had seen half a dozen outboard with the same problem, i.e. alcohol damaged fuel lines.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.