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Deadlights and other leaks...

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/04/2009 : 06:44:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 ...to get rid of the leak-prone square of plastic. (Actually I'm not sure I would, but I am really tired of that deadlight. It will soon disappear.)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">A 3/8"-thick piece of Lexan, beveled around the sides, is a bullet-proof replacement so you still have some light up there. If your leaks are due to stepping on the flimsy lens, you'll probably be stepping on the vent, too. And it's probably more fragile than the skylight.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I agree with the ideas to end the leak, however, according to the PO, our Deadlight was replaced twice and rebedded with 4200.

After the second rebed, he got tired of fixing it and re-did the job "for the last time" using 5200. Its leaking again now, and I have a rubbermaid under it.

My plan is to router out the 5200 (and deadlight) then plug the hole with epoxy and glass mat using the technique described in Mate's "Finely Fitted Yacht." It should work out that we get most of the light, no leaks, and give up the view of the sky. I have never laid in the vee berth and stared at the sky, so I'm not too worried about that.

My other most annoying leak is in the quarterberth. It is about a foot aft of the main hatch, under the cockpit. I'm not sure if it coming from the remote control for the outboard, the hatch itself, along the wires, or from some other bizarre place that I can't figure out. All I know is I need to find its source and end the drip.

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
http://frosthaus.blogspot.com/

Take a minute to register your boat with the association!!
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/owner_questionnaire.htm

Edited by - on

farrison
Navigator

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USA
166 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 07:57:13

Before you abandon the skylight in the bow, try the BoatLife products, like Lifecalk or Lifeseal. I'm with you, I used 4200 on the frame-to-cabin seal when I redid my windows, and it leaked immediately. When we removed the window to re-do it, it almost fell out.

As for the quarter berth leak, could it be migrating along the underside of the cockpit floor from the stern? I had a pesky leak that I finally traced to the brass scupper tubes in the back of the cockpit. Other possibilities could be leaks at stanchions, winches, cleats or windows that runs back to the q-berth.

Edited by - on

jaclasch
Navigator

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USA
104 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 08:39:01

It is nice having light coming into this area but not nice having it leak on cushions or bedding. I thought about replacing the plastic and decided it should have two qualities: 1. It should be strong enough to stand on. 2. It should resist scratching.

My solution was to take the old plastic to use for a template and visit the local auto glass shop. They cut a new one from bronze-tone laminated windshield glass. It now works great.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 12:45:26

When I replaced my horizontal deadlight on my C22 with the 1/4" Lexan it never leaked again and looked great - it matched the rest of the portlights. I would not glass it in unless you are VERY good with fiberglasing and matching gelcoat.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 13:05:09

The problem is that you HAVE to bed it in LIFESEAL! All of the other sealants are NOT compatible with LEXAN ( poly carbonate ) and WILL leak. No ifs and or buts. Been there, Done that. And don't try to use Silicone, It has very poor adhesive quality's. The PO didn't know what he was doing and by using 4200 then 5200 he just made a big mess and you alot of work to clean it out.

Edited by - islander on 06/04/2009 13:18:42

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 14:42:08

Previous experience has shown that 5200 can be removed with a high RPM Router and a sure hand... I wish I had a sure hand.

The plan for removal/fibreglassing does not include gelcoating. If I gelcoat I lose all the light that would come through the transleucence (sp?) of the Fibreglass. The plan is to:

1. Remove existing light and prep edges of hole for fiber-glassing.
2. Use 4200 to seal a sheet of waxed paper to the underside (Inside) of the deadlight opening.
3. Use a 2X4 to wedge a piece of plywood in under the waxed paper, and support the bottom of the hole.
4. Pour epoxy thickened with (white) microbubbles into the hole to a thickness equal to 1/4 the deck thickness.
5. Wait for it to partially (mostly) harden. (Will require beer)
6. Place FG cloth in the hole so it sticks to the resin.
7. Use Epoxy to wet out cloth, buld to thickness of centre 1/2 of deck.
8. Wait for cloth section to harden.
9. Top off with thickened epoxy resin (white microbubbles)
10. Sand flat to match surrounding deck.

The white microbubbles should give the FG a clouded look, and lessen the harshness of the light inside. The cloth should give strength, and the epoxy will bond to the edges of the hole to give more strength and a sure seal.

If it doesn't work, I just pull out the router and start over (with a slightly larger deadlight)

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 15:48:56

Not a good plan Brother. The epoxy is not UV stabilized and will turn yellow and begin to break down immediately. Epoxy is never to be left exposed to the sun. Either cover the epoxy with gelcoat, easy to do and easy to match, or install a new piece of Acrylic (Plexiglass), not polycarbonate, (Lexan).
Lexan is not UV stabilized unles you specifically order it that way. Plexyglass would be the correct material and [url="http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf"]Sikaflex 295UV[/url] is the correct sealant. It's made to do exactly what you are looking for it to do.
Do that and no more leaks.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 17:39:57

the leak in the quarterberth is probably the scuppers in the cockpit. The water runs along the ceiling to the place you described and drips to the cushion. Work a bead of caulk around the brass flashing of the scupper tube; inside the transom and outside.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2009 : 06:30:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pastmember
 the leak in the quarterberth is probably the scuppers in the cockpit. The water runs along the ceiling to the place you described and drips to the cushion. Work a bead of caulk around the brass flashing of the scupper tube; inside the transom and outside.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jaclasch
 It is nice having light coming into this area but not nice having it leak on cushions or bedding. I thought about replacing the plastic and decided it should have two qualities: 1. It should be strong enough to stand on. 2. It should resist scratching.

My solution was to take the old plastic to use for a template and visit the local auto glass shop. They cut a new one from bronze-tone laminated windshield glass. It now works great.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Happy D
 Not a good plan Brother. The epoxy is not UV stabilized and will turn yellow and begin to break down immediately. Epoxy is never to be left exposed to the sun. Either cover the epoxy with gelcoat, easy to do and easy to match, or install a new piece of Acrylic (Plexiglass), not polycarbonate, (Lexan).
Lexan is not UV stabilized unles you specifically order it that way. Plexyglass would be the correct material and [url="http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf"]Sikaflex 295UV[/url] is the correct sealant. It's made to do exactly what you are looking for it to do.
Do that and no more leaks.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks guys, approach suitably ammended.

Edited by - Prospector on 06/05/2009 06:33:46

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