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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'll just say that "hot-dipped galvanized" will resist corrosion better than "zinc plated". But that's a little less of an issue for you than for me (in salt water).
PS test chain a couple of years ago. Cheap, chinese made chain may have inadequate corrosion resistance and, more significantly, widely varying breaking strength. Poor quality control, substandard materials, and cost cutting make some of the chain unsafe for marine or critical use, and you have no way of knowing if you have good or bad chain. PS's recommendation was to bite the bullet and spend the bucks for american made chain.
I didn't notice the 3/8" reference... 1/4" chain is <i>half</i> the weight per foot, and plenty strong for these boats. That might suggest buying half the length of 3/8" for the same holding power, but the other thing you're getting with chain is abrasion resistance. 25' of 1/4" is a pretty well accepted standard for a 25' boat.
I thought that the heavier chain gave a better catenary but hey, if 1/4 will do, I'm all for that!
I was going to get (4' {freeboard} X 7)=28' of chain for our primary anchor so that when we go to anchor I just have to let out th echain, and then go (depth X 7) of rode to have proper scope. Anyone wanna tell me why this is a bad idea before I go shopping. Right now we have about 15 ft of chain on board. I was thinking I would just keep that on the spare anchor.
Chris, We've got 25' of 1/4" chain on our main anchor (22 lb plow), and 6' on our Danforth. Both anchors and chains came with the boat. I will probably remove the 6' section on the Danforth & replace it with 25' of galvanized, if nothing else to extend the rode a bit, it's kind of short at only 100' or so. I've got nearly 300' on the plow, which is probably too much, but I can get out 10:1 scope in 30' of water should I need to. And I know for a fact that my Danforth will hold me against a river current in 45' of water (2:1 scope). I wouldn't want to sleep like that, but it gave me enough time to unwrap my bow line from my prop (now shortened to a length that won't reach the back of the boat, stupid mistake on my part).
My wife and I bought a very nice, made-in-China Suncast hose reel - metal tubing with four numatic tires, last year. It works great except that last week the "brass" hose fitting connecting the short hose from the faucet to the reel broke in half. I picked it up and squeezed one of the broken halves with my thumb and index finger. I am not overly strong but the piece broke like it was cheap plastic let alone brass. To add insult to injury, Suncast no longer makes replacement parts for this otherwise very nice unit.
So, like Dave, I would recommend American made for this application.
Agreed on the made in North America bit. I like to think Canada makes quality stuff too. Looking around I noticed that the stuff in Princess Auto (chinese) has a breaking strength of 2,000 lbs for 3/8 Chain.
I had to go into Brafasco (Industrial supply) this morning for some custom bolts for the car from hell, and they had chain there with a breaking strength labelled "we haven't reached it yet" I thought that was funny so I mentioned it to the girl at the counter, and she laughed and said it was rated for something like 5,000 lbs, but they had abused the chain on a bunch of applications and hadn't managed to break it. That sounded like a pretty good endorsement for me. Only problem - its more expensive than the marine chain.
I imagine Canada adheres to design and materials standards as well as the U.S. and European countries. The problem with chain from he far east is that it may not come close to its rated breaking strength. I'm sure that there are some reputable manufacturers in China, but it's hard to know who made your chain, and I don't do destructive testing to verify the numbers. By the way, another well argued standard is for the weight of properly sized chain to equal the weight of the anchor. There are lots of rules of thumb and each has many adherents; you should consider where and when you anchor and use the amount of chain that lets you sleep well.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />no one needs 3/8 anchor chain on a C25. I have 5/16 and it is more than adequate. 1/4 would be better.
I got galvinized 5/16 at Home Depot for pretty cheap. They also have all the fittings. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Agreed, although 5/16 will increase catenary by quite a margin. I'd say that unless you are cruising like we are, HD chain is fine. Just keep an eye on it....
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.