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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm ready to get started on the final step of a complete bottom job on my 1980 C25 sr/fk. I started by having the hull soda blasted. Then I ground all loose material off the cast iron keel, sealed the bare metal with un-filled epoxy and re-faired the keel. I've patched a few minor hull dings and blemishes. Now I'm waiting for a weather window and will take a couple of days vacation for a long, and hopefully productive weekend.
The boat is kept in the cold fresh water of Lake Superior and will be on a trailer 6-7 months over the hard-water phase we have to suffer through up here in border country.
I plan to apply 4-5 coats of Interlux 2000E followed by 3 coats of Micron CSC. I plan to apply both products with 3/8" nap rollers. The boat is on a trailer so I'll have to juggle pads to complete the job. Quite an investment of $$ and time and maybe a bit of overkill but I don't want to do this again for a very long time! Wish me luck. And if you have any sage advice or encouragement, feel free to share ;)
I was wondering why you haven't considered VC-17. It is easy to apply and is a very nice bottom paint for lake sailing. Also faster if you plan to do any racing.
I hand scraped my bottom paint over last winter, I used a pull scraper and the bottom was a mess, so it took me about 4-6 weekends to get it down to the gel coat.
Here's where I got to before finishing the job
I applied Interlux 2000E and followed the mfgr's instructions to apply 20 mils (6 coats). Afterwards, I applied standard copper bottom paint (red first, then blue) and it came out pretty well.
Time will tell, and this November when we pull the boat, I will see whether it did the trick.
Not sure whether salt water between 50-75 degrees affects the bottom differently than fresh at 45-55 degrees. Again, we should compare notes later this year.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Chris Z</i> <br />Todd,
I was wondering why you haven't considered VC-17. It is easy to apply and is a very nice bottom paint for lake sailing. Also faster if you plan to do any racing. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
VC-17 was my original plan but I switched to micron csc for a few reasons: - it doesn't lose it's effectiveness when kept out of the water. vc-17 does. My boat will be dry about 7 months a year. - if you follow the instructions you are supposed to put at least one new coat of vc-17 on each season. You don't have to with micron csc. From consultations I've had with Interlux support I expect to get about 3 seasons out of the paint before adding additional coats. - vc-17 is smoother but the micron csc wears to a smooth finish compared to other bottom paints. - leftover csc has a shelf life. so I can use if for touch ups as needed. - csc polishes away so there isn't a build-up problem. I'll apply 2 red base coats and coats of blue over. When I start to see red it's time to add more blue. vc-17 is really thin so build-up really isn't an issue but it does build up. - like vc-17, csc doesn't require sanding when adding additional coats. - csc is applied to the last coat of interlux 2000e when the last coat is tacky. No sanding and a chemical/mechanical bond. Vc-17 over 2000e requires the 2000e to cure 24-36 hours and then be sanded before applying the vc-17 -I don't race so the smoothest possible finish wasn't a priority for me. -according to interlux tech support: "csc will last longer and require less work overall" than vc-17.
Why do you say that vc-17 easier to apply? Don't both products just roll on? Is it that vc-17 dries so much quicker? I was actually worried about wasting a lot of paint if I went with vc-17 due to it drying in the pan. Pouring one roller-full at a time sounds like a pain. But I've never used it so I don't really know.
I think they are both fine products. There really isn't a "wrong" choice here but csc won out in my analysis.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br /> Here is the finished job
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />I don't think that VC-17 loses its effectiveness when out of the water. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Regarding vc17 they say ..."The paint has a hard surface, and may be used on trailerable boats; however it does lose effectiveness when stored out of the water. The anti-fouling protection is only moderate, and the paint has a typical lifespan of only one season."
I couldn't find anything on the Interlux site and manuals that matches that. Perhaps it is more about the Pettit paint?? I have been using VC17M for several seasons now. Last year I only painted the top 12" of waterline because the coverage from the previous year was still in great shape. There are lots of good paints out there. I am a big fan of VC17M due to its ease of application, smooth surface and effectiveness in our lake.
The differing opinions on the subject might be a consequence of where you sail the boat. I suspect that VC17 loses it's effectiveness to resist barnacles from year-to-year in a salt water environment, but that it continues to be effective against slime in fresh water.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Milby</i> <br />The differing opinions on the subject might be a consequence of where you sail the boat. I suspect that VC17 loses it's effectiveness to resist barnacles from year-to-year in a salt water environment, but that it continues to be effective against slime in fresh water. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That makes a lot of sense. This is my first boat painting project so I am definitely not an expert on the subject. There are so many variables and conditions we sail in. I guess that's why there are 100's of paints to pick from!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />Todd It took about 2/3 of a can to cover one coat, so I used about three cans. I like the idea of using alternating colors <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks. Good info.
I bought white and gray and plan to alternte coats as well.
Now I just need the weather to cooperate and align with a weekend...
Is anyone familiar with copper free paint? The city is offering boat-owners, at the marina that I keep PiSeas II at, $1000 toward copper free bottom painting. I got my name at top of list and am waiting for more info for this $800,000 federal grant to help clean up bay and protect sea life. I am anxious to hear details but not sure how it compares to traditional paint. Steve A
I thought I would experiment with VC-17 before I applied it to entire boat, so I applied it to the rudder only. It has done well for short periods of time in fresh water(one to four wks) and did very well the first year in saltwater(five wks). Two yrs. later I returned boat to saltwater w/out new paint. The rudder did "slimeup" on me but did much better then rest of boat which was w/out any bottom paint at all. On the hull I had considerable barnicles or shell like sea life which all came off with a pressure wash. So the bottom line IMHO VC-17 seems less effective in salt water and less effective in multiple yrs. w/out re-coating. I am intrigued with the CSC product.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.