Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
A couple of people have already talked about repairing blisters and bottom painting. They must be in a warmer climate than I! Here's a technique that allows you to paint one-half of the bottom with no trailer hardware touching the bottom.
The first photo shows both foward racks removed. The bow-eye is winched snugly into the v-blocks. Before removing the racks, I lowered them with the assistance of a hydraulic jack (and the reverse for reinstalling them.) And unlike mine, the wheels should be chocked! <img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2ce02b3127cce910ae9d2cdd70000000410" border=0> Here's a close-up. I cut-down a house jack and had one of the plates welded to the bottom post. I sandwiched a piece of 2x4 between the top plate and the hull. Notice the post is angled so it is perpendicular to the hull. <img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2ce02b3127cce910af7cc4cf60000000210" border=0>
For the rear rollers I positioned the house jack midway under the keel that's formed in the fiberglass as part of the hull. <font color=red>Care must be given not to rock the boat side-to-side when using this technique!</font id=red>
osmepneo is in a cradle for the winter and I have been wondering about lowering the jack stands to paint underneath them. I suspect I'd lower one at a time, so as to keep 3 in contact with the hull at all times.
What kind of kob would it be to lift the boat some using the jack-stands?
If your trailer has rollers, the easy way to paint under them is to hook the trailer to your tow vehicle, lower the bar on which the keel rests, loosen the winch cable and safety chain 4-5 inches, put the transmission in gear and step on the gas. Then let out the winch cable and safety chain another 4-5 inches and do it again. You might have to do it a third time to move it enough to paint. Just make sure your bow eye, winch cable and safety chain are in good condition. After the paint is dry, just winch the boat forward. Some of you might think this sounds unsafe, but, unless the bow eye, or <u>both</u> the winch cable and safety chain break, how is the boat going to come off the trailer? Also, the weight of the boat is still supported by, and distributed over, six or eight sets of rollers. To me, the thought of jacking the boat clear of the rollers scares me.
I read on a web site of a jackstand manufacturer where it said NOT to lift the boat with the jackstands. My boat is on a cradle as well, and I want to get her up in the air so I can inspect and, if necessary, repair the underside of the fixed fin keel. I know how to lift the boat (in theory) but contemplating the loads involved has me very hesitant. I'd do it with forms built out of lumber and plywood, along with four (probably) hydraulic jacks, fitting the forms to the hull, then putting the jacks under the ends of the forms fore and aft of the keel, then jacking one at a time, while raising the corner supports on the cradle as well, to keep her from shifting side to side. Reverse the process to lower.
But, like I said, contemplating 4500 pounds up in the air has made me hesitant. A local boatyard offered to hoist her "for a little bit" prior to spring launch, but if the keel needs major work, as I suspect, I'd need more than "a little bit," and that could be a few boat units, I'm afraid.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> To me, the thought of jacking the boat clear of the rollers scares me. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I hear ya Steve - but there were so may steps involved with the blister repair, I really needed unobstructed access. Additionally, I apply VC17 with an airless sprayer. It dries so quickly that the tip would become plugged if I had to stop to reposition the boat. I too was pretty leary about this technique at first, but it works so well that it's second nature now.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.