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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've decided I want to put one of these on SL, I know several people have done so, do you have any advice to offer now that you've had it installed for a while? Something you'd do differently, wish you'd done instead, etc? Do I want the fill & drain on the same side, or opposite sides?
Edit: How well does it clear the speed/depth cutouts towards the rear of the compartment? Did you bolt it into place somehow?
The cheapest I've been able to find it is on Ebay for $105 + shipping from Marisafe in FL, does anyone have a better source? This particular one has the fittings on opposite sides (fill on top, drain on bottom), it would seem that both on top might be better.
Thoughts?
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
Here's what I've learned since installing the tank.
1) It's a pain to fill the way I originally installed it. I've since installed a "tee" fitting to the fill hose of the standard water tank. Now, I fill both tanks with the standard fill port in the anchor locker. When the standard tank is full, it will start filling the extra tank.
2) The Plastimo tank has a 1-1/2" fitting and 1/2" fitting. I recommend buying the extra fitting kit and convert both to 1/2" fitting. This is noted in my post.
3) The extra tank completely covers the speed/depth port. I cut a piece of "Star-Board" to cover. This is noted in my post.
4) The extra tank has small straps loops at the 3 corners for attachments. The standard water tank is on a wooden stand. You can mount an eye strap to the port and starboard side of the stand. I used 1/4 line to connect the aft corners of the tank to the eye straps.
5) I ordered the tank model with the both ports on the same side. When both ports are on the top, you have to put pressure on the tank to empty. It's a tight space if you want to sit on the extra tank. I recommend the drain on the bottom side.
6) Consider how you plan to empty both tanks. I empty both tanks into the bilge. Having 12 gallons in the standard tank and 32 gallons in the extra tank is a lot to empty with the manual bilge pump. I recommend an electric bilge pump. See my related post here > [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=12745"]Bilge Pump[/url]
Russ, Thanks for the insights. I've been wondering about how to the fill process, as well as drain and use. I've been thinking about daisy chaining the fills, so the new tank would fill first, then spill over into the old tank, which would allow the overflow to continue to work. I'd valve it so that either tank could be filled, used or drained. I've already got a 2000 GPH electric bilge pump installed, but I think I could also push the water out with an air pump through the fill filling (not sure if this is a good plan, figure I'd use a low pressure pump like the WB guys use to blow ballast). I know it takes Rita & I about 20 minutes to pump the 13 gallon tank down, so it'd take another hour to pump down the 32 gallon tank, I think I'd rather "test" the bilge pump & clean up afterward than that.
It seems to me my speed & transducer through hulls project up above the surface, but I can't be sure I haven't looked in there since early this year. Guess I need a trip down to the boat this weekend.
Marisafe has one with the fittings on both sides for sale on Ebay (that I didn't bid on this time around, but they immediately re-listed it).
Yes, my water-ballast has a cubby that the winged-keel does not. The electric bilge pump work great to empty the water tanks. The water-ballast has the bilge aft of the stairs, so it's a gravity drain for the tanks. You can see the valve setup in my post. The valves are under the starboard cabin seat, so you can control which tank is drained.
David, we installed a power pump so that we can have showers and rinse down the cockpit etc. Takes more than 10 minutes to empty the tanks. I recenly modified my plumbing so that the supply lines from both tanks end up under the galley floor and T together before a 2nd T which is connected to the galley faucet and the power pump (which also sits under the galley floor)
Only issue I have is grotty hoses!
Agree with Russ, should have got the conversion kit.
Trick! - Buy a concrete doughnut from the depot. Wrap it to eliminate sharp edges and put it around the outlet connection on the plastimo tank. It keeps the outlet below the water level and avoids getting air into the supply outlet hose.
Paul, The donut doesn't choke off the outlet as it drains? I was thinking a triangular piece of plywood with one of my current 30lb lumps of lead affixed to it to help drain it, with appropriate cutouts for the drain & fills.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.