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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Trailer Brakes

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Tradewind
Admiral

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USA
531 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/12/2009 : 14:43:00

After inspecting my trailer that's been sitting for over 3 years I find the surge brake system needs replacement, I don't believe it can be repaired due to rust and corrosion. Any advice or suggestions for a particular brand or type of system? I'm sure the local trailer repair shops can give me excellent ($$$) suggestions but I wanted to get some help from the experts on this board first.

I need to tow the boat 300 miles over flat interstate and city roads but just don't want to do it without brakes.

Thanks for your help.

1998 250WK #331
CILCIA
Steve
Pensacola, FL

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2009 : 15:00:53

http://www.championtrailers.com/index.html#

. . . and if it's a Trail-Rite - they sell original replacement parts.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2009 : 17:51:50

I replaced the drum brakes on our trailer with Stainless Steel discs. They have worked wonderfully. I ordered the parts from Champion. Here is the link to the project:

[url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15536&SearchTerms=disc"]Disc Brakes[/url]

I also have an article about the installation in the May 2008 Mainsheet.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2009 : 03:46:27

Steve, corrosion is the killer in brake systems. The internal rust is caused by normal brake fluid that is a sponge to moisture and feeds the development of rust. The rust in turn eats at the cups necessary to brake systems and very soon a brake system is leaking fluid and jammed by rust.

The solution is to either use non rusting brake parts (I'm talking about the cylinders both master and slave) or synthetic brake fluid or both.

My trailer brakes were froze up within three years from new. I replaced with standard cast iron master and slave cylinders like came with the trailer but went synthetic fluid and the system remains working fine after ten years.

If the brake shoes and drums are in bad shape, then as suggested replace with stainless disk and there are even composite master cylinders as well.

Some master cylinders even offer a closed system using a bladder cap. These avoid the normal temperature induced breathing of moisture into the brake system where the moisture is absorbed if standard brake fluid is used. Autos have used closed systems for twenty years or so now and experience far lesser corrosion issues.

Any way you choose to do it, I'd suggest synthetic fluid because of the brake lines themselves. Even if the master and slave won't rust, the lines will (though they are not near as susceptible as the cast iron used in cylinders) so the synthetic is a good choice, though it is two to three times the cost of standard.

If the brake linings and drums are ok and your on a tight budget, replacing with standard cast iron cylinders will produce good results but only if using the synthetic fluid.

If going synthetic, be certain to purge all standard fluid from the lines.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 10/13/2009 03:50:12

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2009 : 05:23:29

Arlyn,

Having trouble following your message. I am familiar with synthetic brake fluid - and its advantages. Are you also saying they make master and slave cylinders out of synthetic materials (as oppsed to cast iron)?

I think it is possible to puchase brake lines made from stainless as well?

Thanks for your post.

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

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USA
531 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2009 : 14:13:17

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think my safest plan is to replace with stainless disc. I haven't pulled a wheel off yet to inspect the drums and cylinders but I'll bet they're in need of an entire rebuild. I pulled the cover off the master cylinder, it was dry and totally rusted, the cap even had a hole rusted in it. Sure hate to drop the big bucks but safety first. I only plan to tow it to the coast, 300 miles, and use a lift to put it in/out of the water for the occasional bottom job and for named storms in the gulf, I don't ever plan to put the trailer in the water other than to get it out of the lake it's in now. I guess $1K is cheap insurance for the long tow to the coast when one considers the consequences.

I have no idea what brand the trailer is, may be custom made back in the 80's from what I've been told by a trailer mechanic.

Thanks, Arlyn and Randy, I'll follow Randy's project on his link to install the stainless disc. What is the first step, measuring the size of the axle?

Edited by - Tradewind on 10/13/2009 14:15:48

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2009 : 20:48:49

First step is to call Champion. They are terrific to talk to and help on the project. I'd suggest you take the drums off and then take a digital photo of the axle and e-mail it to them to help them understand the situation you are dealing with. Ask them to mail you their catalog. It is very useful and a good learning tool as well. You can also download it from their web site.

Champion Trailer - 800-229-6690
[url="http://www.championtrailers.com/"]Champion Trailers[/url]

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2009 : 17:14:39

FWIW, just ordered my new trailer from Trail-Rite. They don't offer stainless steel rotors as the material does not dissipate heat well - leading to warping. They also discouraged me from ordering ss brake lines as they are too brittle - leading to possible cracking.

Edited by - on

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