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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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ESKA Project outboard

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/29/2009 : 06:04:39

I purhcased a 2.5hp ESKA outboard from Craig's List, $100 with 'Issues'.

Issue #1: Siezed (at least prop would not turn)
Solution: Removed covers and squirted WD40 into the carb, little bit of effort and shaft can rotate.

Issue #2: Prop not turning during start attempts (I'm certain this thing does not have any type of clutch)
Solution: The nut securing the starting head to the end of the Crankshaft was loose. Quick tighten and now prop turns when starter is pulled (and feels like it has compression)

Issue #3: No spark!
Confirmed by removing plug from engine, and completing the connection with a piece of copper wire from the outside of the plug to the engine chassis.
Solution: Removed the starter head and flywheel. points look good, but there is no key between the crankshaft and the flywheel (so timing must be off!)
Made a new key from an old square allan key shaped using my dremel (love that thing!)
All back together, now nice bright spark!

Issue #4: Won't start! (Suprise!)
I'm guessing it's due to all the failed attempts and the engine is flooded. Left the plug out overnight and will try again this evening.

Anyone got any history with this type of motor? Tricks on 2 strokes of that age (probably mid 80's as that is when they stopped making them)

I'm no mechanic, but I do own a sailboat!

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 06:32:28

You've got spark, all you need now is fuel. If it still doesn't fire this evening do the ole, "tear the carb apart and shoot high pressurized air through every orifice you can find" thing, even the tiny ones. And of course check the bowl and jet for goo.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 07:06:26

You might let it soak overnight in carb cleaner first to liquefy the varnish and goo before doing the compressed air. You will probably need to make new gaskets from gasket paper (from an auto parts store) - use an exacto knife for clean edges. After pulling it through a few times, pull the plug to see if it is wet and smells like fuel. It is probably a 32 or 16:1 mix.

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 08:01:07

use ether to get it to start... this will perhaps prime the carb, or at least confirm it runs.

sten

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 09:17:36

Two strokes only sort of have a carb. Much simpler thing than a four stroke. My outboard was causing a similar situation this summer. Solved it by disassembling the spot where the fuel line enters the fuel pump - which is a pretty small device. Coffee colored gunk came out. Re-assembled and it started right up. You can tell what part I'm talking about because if you follow the fuel line it will terminate into the engine someplace and at that termination is probably a screw, mine was knurled with a slot for a coin, designed to come apart easily for just this reason. You can also test whether fuel is getting from the tank to this point by hand pumping the bulb and seeing if fuel squirts out when this joint is disassembled.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 14:25:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">use ether to get it to start... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
A word of caution! You should never use ether to run a 2 cycle engine. The engine will be running on the ether ( No oil for lubrication) and not the fuel/oil mix). A sure way to score up the cylinders and rings.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 14:49:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 You should never use ether to run a 2 cycle engine. The engine will be running on the ether ( No oil for lubrication) and not the fuel/oil mix). A sure way to score up the cylinders and rings.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If he has excess fuel in there from trying to start it, or fogging oil, that'll take care of the lubrication for the couple of seconds the ether will last. I've etherized numerous little 2-strokes on snowblowers, chainsaws, and boats--it often loosened things up and got fuel flowing. If it doesn't, certainly don't keep running it that way very long.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 15:21:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I'm no mechanic<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> but I slept in a Holiday Inn last night...

I'm guessing it's a one cylinder? If not, is it possible for the key on the rotor shaft to be 180° out?

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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1913 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 15:54:11

Go ahead and put a new plug in it anyway, even if the old one still sparks. I would try that before I started talking the carb apart.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 18:16:56

Dug into it a bit deeper tonight.
Removed the 'carb' which is the simplest I have ever seen. It had clean fuel in the bowl and I think that the float is working as expected.
Removed the exhaust 'mainfold' but you are correct, it's a single pot so not really a 'manifold' could see stright through the cylinder with carb and exhaust removed, rings look fine. Cleaned everything anyway. (left the pot and piston as is for now)
Put it all back together and added extra fuel (2stroke but it's the mix I use for my Ryobi edge trimmer). Spent 10mins pulling it but not a hint of starting.

I like the ether idea!

I'm certain there is no chance the flywheel/crankshaft key could be 180° out, just one slot in both crankshaft and flywheel.

Finger over the sparkplug hole confirms there is compression and suction.

Arm and Back need a break, so waiting till tomorrow night for round 4.

Fun

Paul

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2009 : 19:29:31

I agree with Tom, put a new plug in it, it can't hurt, and it might cure what ails you. What about wires, are they old? What looks like a good spark to you might be a weak spark to the engine. Magneto wires nice & clean, with tight connections? No crimped connections?

Some friends bought a beater Chevy truck to haul yard waste, etc. a while ago. They use it once or twice a year whether they need to or not. A couple of years ago it simply wouldn't start after sitting for about a year. Neither one of them is very handy, so they called to ask my advice. I told them to replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, & condenser, which was met with silence, they had no idea what I was talking about. So I went over to their place, got the year & make off of the plate, went to the nearest Napa & got the stuff & went back and installed it all. The truck started right up. Sometimes replacing the infrastructure just works.

Edited by - on

redviking
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2009 : 06:30:37

if you are worried about scoring the walls from the ether, first hit the cyclinder with a little wd 40 or oil then the ether. The ether is just there to start ignition.

sten

Edited by - on

britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2009 : 15:33:26

New plug (confirmed spark) Squirt of starter spray into carb, no luck.

Stripping it down to see if there's anything broken in the cylinder

Paul

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2009 : 10:18:17

Dang! May have found the issue - only 1 piston ring (it looks good, but there is a 2nd groove that is empty, the one nearest the plug)

I noticed that the DPO had tried to service it several times (key missing, shaft insecure,etc.) When I started to strip it down it looked pretty clean, the carb to intake port looks new, and the gaskets came off really easy.

After cleaning it up (WD40 and a rag) I made a new gasket to put it back together then realized that the 2nd grove should have a ring in it! Dang!!!!

Of course, a google search finds nadah!

By all accounts it's an air cooled 50cc engine (50cc is marked on the underside of the cylinder assembly).

Anyone got ideas of where to start looking for a new piston ring? Or did I just toss $100 in the garbage can

Paul

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2009 : 12:03:50

Paul, it looks like the Eska engines were manufactured by Tecumseh, this page should help you get started: http://www.discount-marine-parts.com/ob_eska.html

I Googled for "Eska spare parts" and this was the top listing.

Good luck.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2009 : 19:16:22

Check with Sears. They sold Eska/Tecumseh engines for years under their Gamefisher brand. I've owned 2 of them, both 1 cly. 7.5 hp air cooled motors, bought used. The first one had no engine shroud and truly sounded like a lawn mower on the back of the boat (C-22). The 2nd one had an engine shroud and was a little bit quieter. Later moved up to a Merc 4 stroke 5 hp, wish I had done it years earlier.

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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2009 : 09:24:11

Paul,
You can also contact Total Seal and they will work with you to identify the proper rings. I have worked with them in the past for over-sized rings and they were very helpful.

http://www.totalseal.com/ContactUs.aspx

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2009 : 17:49:08

Thanks Joe, will contact them in the morning.

Paul

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