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C250 WB shifts on trailer

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/28/2009 : 18:47:24

While driving 2200 km (1500 miles) south, (Vancouver, BC to San Diego) we noticed that the boat shifted approximately 5cm (2") to starboard even though port and starboard cabin & cockpit coamings contain about the same weight. The 8hp Honda was suspended on the starboard side from the stern the entire way. Once we arrived the keel was snuggled up against the starboard keel trailer guide.

What would, in your opinion, cause this shift
Anyone with a similar experience, explanation or suggestion?

By applying a new anti fouling coat from the waterline to the trailer bunks we could accurately measure this shift

Henk & Johanna
"Floating", a few off your "barnacles".
"Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016)
"Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018)
"Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023)
"Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2009 : 20:09:44

With the strap down system we use, I could not imagine it moving at all, but the fact is scary, I'd be concerned that some sideways effort was exerted on the keel.

No soap on the beds? I presume Ice on the beds is not an issue too? What kind of straps do you hold her down with?
Paul

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2009 : 22:13:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">With the strap down system we use, I could not imagine it moving at all, but the fact is scary, I'd be concerned that some sideways effort was exerted on the keel.

No soap on the beds? I presume Ice on the beds is not an issue too? What kind of straps do you hold her down with?
Paul<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Paul Absolutely... having the keel touch/ride against the trailer's keel guide should be avoided! Could you outline (pictures perhaps?) your strap-down method... admittedly we did not strap the stern... or ever have... would that solve the problem? My concern is and has been that 1) strapping the boat down would only increase more pressure on the hull and 2) to what point(s) would you fasten the straps to prevent shifting. The bow is held firmly with the hook and steel cable of the retrieve winch through the boat's pull-out eye to the trailer's V shaped receptacle. Since the 8hp outboard is suspended on starboard side would its weight not want to move the hull in the opposite direction.

Although it gets cold up in Canada we left before the frost got too deep in the ground and being dutch and all we use soap sparingly (just kidding)

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2009 : 07:06:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by zeil
 ...What would, in your opinion, cause this shift?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Uneven pavement when traveling in the right lane on a crowned road (i.e. listing slightly to starboard)? Or one pot-hole against your port-side tires could've done it. A strap over the cockpit coamings might help by keeping the boat more firmly on the bunks when everything starts rattling around.

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2009 : 19:06:38

we use a 2" yellow strap (harbor freight) over the bow forward of the anchor locker.
The stern strap passing forward of the cleats but aft of the catbird seats.

We twist both straps on each side of the boat to prevent wind whipping, and also twist the aft strap between the gunwhales for the same reason. I have a pic somewhere, will dig it out.

Paul
[url="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=6828&id=100000265101796&l=995dbfb2d6"]PICs on FaceBook[/url]

Edited by - britinusa on 11/29/2009 19:53:10

dubedoo
1st Mate

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68 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2009 : 10:09:30

Hi Henk,

I experienced the boat shifting on the trailer early on (we purchased the boat back in 2003). I wasn't tieing down the stern at that time either. Talked with TrailRite and others on this site and started strapping down the stern.......over the top just forward of the wheel and criss crossed and twisted underneath. Secured by ratchet tie downs bolted onto the trailer frame. Problem solved. I won't go anywhere now without strapping down the stern!! I make sure that the strap is tight.....but I don't over do it. Also am sure to wrap some soft cloth/flannel around the strap where it comes in contact with the boat so the strap doesn't rub and damage the gelcoat.

Reason for the shifting? I also could only conclude that it was due at least in large part to the camber/crowning in the roads.

Steve C250 WB #702

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2009 : 22:24:30

Thank you Dave, Paul & Steve: We'll carefully strap the stern of the boat down as suggested using the criss cross method to the frame of the trailer while making sure to add friction felt-pads where required. During the 4 day trip home we plan to take breaks, lunch, and sleep on the boat so we'll have to get used to stepping over the strap which should be no biggie.

Since the boat did not seem to shift significantly during our 2006-7 27.000 km (18.000 miles) round the continent road/float trip between launchings we avoided strapping. But the shift experienced now with the centerboard touching the trailer centerboard guard has changed our mind and are willing to risk delicately strapping hull to bunks.

We also have no other explanation than the roughness, potholes, washboard and crown of the I-5 2200 km (1500 mile) road from southern California to British Columbia

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2009 : 23:27:15

I'm at a loss... after arriving home from spending 5 weeks at Marina Village, Mission Bay, San Diego, and driving 2200 km (1500 mile) home along the I-5 we noticed the boat still shifting in spite of strapping it down as per illustration... anybody any suggestions?

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2009 : 07:50:31

Stop waxing the bottom.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2009 : 07:52:31

Wait... Your strap is pulling the boat to starboard!

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bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2009 : 17:06:01

I have followed your travels and enjoyed pictures you posted. I have a 95 WB C-250 and strap the stern down with a 2" aircraft cargo strap
with a winch in the strap mechanism. What I do that is different is I
installed an eyebolt in the trailer frame on both sides and use the eyebolts for the strap hooks and winch the strap down tight. The strap is about halfway down the cockpit and seems to have held the boat secure in 7 years of trailering twice a year. Hope this helps in your thoughts.

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2009 : 17:29:40

Henk, I see you have the ratchet side of the strap on the Stbd side going down to the trailer.
This is good! If you had to make an adjustment to the strap tension, then you would be on the passenger side of the boat/ roadside much safer than being on the port/ highway side of the setup.

But the port end of the strap should go down directly to the trailer so that it's nearly vertical similar to the stbd side.

Finally put at least 1 full twist in the strap between each turning point. ie. Port side trailer hook, twist, port gunwhale, twist, stbd gunwhale, twist, stbd side ratchet to trailer.

The reason for the twist is to eliminate strap flap that can occur at road speed with potential wear of the strap or strap against the hull.

We also use cloths about 12x24" wrapped around the strap where it passes over each gunwhale to prevent strap rash on the fiberglass surface.

Using the strap to pull the boat down to the trailer will prevent movement unless you had a really really wild ride!

We have pulled JD at max speed (wouldn't admit to going faster) and no shift at all upon arrival at our destination.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/21/2009 : 21:21:03

Dave and Paul are correct. One end of the strap should connect to the port side of the trailer frame and the other goes to the starboard side. That way the pressure is downward. This downward pull, coupled with the bottom shape, will keep the boat in place.

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2009 : 19:32:52

Thanks guys for the advice... I'll have to quit using whale oil to grease the bunks or is it gravitational pull to the south pole (just kidding) 1500 miles with rough road sections still shifted the boat to starboard... Since the 2" 25 ft strap was too short for anchoring both sides to the frame, I was optimistic that by running it under the port side bunk and tying it to the trailers frame on the starboard side the boat would stay in place.

Paul, lining the strap where it touches the hull with soft material is definitely required... too late for us, we'll have to do some major buffing!!

Carl, I'm impressed with your method of strapping the boat down, however, my concern would be...
1) do nylon mooring lines stay sufficiently tensioned
2) on rough roads would it not create too much stress on the cleats?
Your pictures also show...
1) the rudder stored on the trailer frame... could you show more detail
2) what is the wood wedge block mounted to the trailers port rail used for
3) yes... I would be very interested in your mast raising system using the gin pole

We wish you all a blessed and Christ filled Christmas and a happy New Year

Marina Village, Mission Bay, San Diego, December 2009

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NUTHRTOY
1st Mate

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26 Posts

Response Posted - 12/26/2009 : 15:20:06

Henk, since we purchased the boat new, I have pictures of how it was tied down by Catalina for the trip from California to Illinois in January of ‘95.

It seems that Catalina was not worried about stress on the cleats. Your point about docklines having too much stretch is well taken.
Since we pull our boat less than 50 miles each way to launch in the spring and retrieve in the fall,we feel that using the docklines is OK. It looks like some strong inexpensive rope was used for delivery. BTW every opening was sealed with duct tape including the thruhulls for sink drains etc and hatchcover, entryway door, cockpit storage lockers & anchor locker. The interior was perfectly clean.

About the rudder... we finally got tired of bagging it and putting it below so I just tie it to the bunker supports after hooking a gudgeon pin on a crossmember. I use a strong piece of rope. Be sure to remove the bolts/nuts that connect the steering(if you have a wheel) so they don't become lost.

The wood blocks are for some plastic pipe that I install on each side when retrieving the boat. I have a black tape on the portside pipe to mark the depth of the water needed to have the trailer in far enough to get the boat on the trailer. It works for me,but I have learned to remove them for highway travel.

Here are somethings to think about:

1.I have this idea of putting a hitch ball installed on the bottom(upside down)of a 6" drop drawbar that is then installed upside down in the reciever to raise the coupler approx.10", I think,but am not sure, that this could lower the rear of the trailer to make it easier to get the boat on the bunks.

2. another owner rigged a hitch ball on the end of a 6 foot length of 2"sq.tubing that he uses only when launching/retrieving, it is installed in the receiver to increase the distance between his truck and the coupler. It works, sort of a reverse tongue extension, but not requiring modification to the trailer.

as usual more than you care to think about...

Best Regards in the New Year Carl

Edited by - NUTHRTOY on 12/28/2009 07:52:35

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 12/26/2009 : 17:10:27

Carl: Thank you for an effective way of rudder blade travel storage solution and launching water level indicator on the port guide post... why didn't I think of this...

Here's our solution of a, about 9ft long, 5th wheel launching/retrieving hitch extension. The up/down spare wheel removable insert idea was published some time ago on this forum. It came in handy many times as we traveled from one location to another. When not in use it is tied to the bunks upright members. It easily inserts & pin locks in a 2 ft long galvanized sleeve mounted and bolted permanently below the trailers hitch.

Notice the about 3-5 inch or so curve on the hitch extension allowing for the parking lot to ramp downward curve during launching/retrieving. Don't have to worry again of the jack wheel to get stuck sideways in a ramp groove... Loaded and doing wide turns on a parking lot with the extension wheel down has not presented a problem

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