Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I bought my solar panels through Amazon dot com / Target. The first shipment came, and the outer cardboard carton was torn and tape was missing on one end, the inner carton was badly dented, and the styrofoam was cracked. I took out the panel, and the glass was smashed. I was extremely disappointed
I emailed Amazon and got a note back in a day or two, and a week later a brand-new one showed up on my front porch. At that point, I ordered the second one, and no problems with that shipment either.
I was planning to go back to the shipper at first, but with the quick response I got from Amazon, I didn't need to go through all that rigamarole with the shipper.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />...I was planning to go back to the shipper at first, but with the quick response I got from Amazon, I didn't need to go through all that rigamarole with the shipper. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Keep us posted how it goes. This is the first item I have ever ordered from Woot, so I am curious to see if they're as responsive as the others. Their website seems to convey an attitude of "it's not our problem." I would like to know whether this is their attempt at humor, or an accurate reflection of their culture.
I mounted my charge controller on the vertical area under the starboard settee (under the lip), just about 3 feet from the battery.
I ran both wires in from outside, routed the wires under the companionway stairs, and created a dual "Y" pigtail with plugs, paralleling both panels into the charge controller.
From the charge controller, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the fibreglass and ran a twisted pair of AWG 16 wire from the charge controller output into the battery compartment.
Inside the battery compartment, I added an inline fuse holder with a 5A fuse on the positive side and crimped on a pair of large diameter eye crimp connectors to attach to the positive and negative wingnut terminals.
My controller is mounted on a piece of starboard. I have the starboard sort of wedged above and behind the aft section of the starboard seat back. This does place it fairly close to the battery with the battery under the steps area. The wires from the controller pass thru a hole drilled underneath the front edge of the quarterberth cushion and I have a fuse inline. The below photo shows the controller from a dfferent angle. So that may help to see how it is mounted on the piece of starboard and how the starboard is sized to slide onto the shelf, held by the shelf edge and the top edge by the fiberglas liner/mold. The controller/starboard fit is secure but not permanently mounted.
Regarding Woot's apparent devil-may-care attitude. I actually have learned to just ignore the write ups (they're just silly) and scroll down to the "what's in the box / specifications" items. I've ordered probably two dozen items from them over the years and will vouch for their ability to deliver on products. I personally have never had to return an item, but I suspect they'll take care of it immediately.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by delliottg</i> <br />Regarding Woot's apparent devil-may-care attitude. I actually have learned to just ignore the write ups (they're just silly) and scroll down to the "what's in the box / specifications" items. I've ordered probably two dozen items from them over the years and will vouch for their ability to deliver on products. I personally have never had to return an item, but I suspect they'll take care of it immediately. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I've had good luck with Woot as well. If they ship you something that doesn't work, they urge you to try to take care of it with the manufacturer first. I have an MP# player that doesn't work that I'm dealing with now. As far as the solar panel? It arrived 2 days after I ordered it, they fed exed it to me. It looks like it's way to big for the boat. I'm probably going to sell it.
What I've heard is that some solar panels will actually draw power off your battery if it's couldy or at night. This Sunsie panel has a controller that doesn't allow that to happen. I'm sure I'll make use of it somehow. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That's what the diode does. It's essentially a one way valve for electricity. The Harbor Freight Tool one listed earlier states: Built-in diode. Without a built-in diode, you need to attach a controller which will certainly have a diode built into it.
While it is still important to be sure that a diode exists on your panel, I think they are pretty much standard fare now-days. You should probably still check that there is one, but I haven't come across a commercially available panel without a diode built into it yet.
You can also find these things at RV stores, since they use them mounted to the top of their trailers. Some of their prices are more reasonable than Marine applications, and they should be able to withstand (road) salt.
Like Chris said, I have found rv products to be less expensive overall than marine products, even when the two products are identical. I do think marine electronics are built to a higher standard than rv products generally. But on most things, it's good to check rv suppliers for parts, or even go walk through an rv parts/accessories store because you'll find a lot of products that will work on your boat for a lot less cost.
Mine arrived today with no apparent damage. All I need now is to get a boat to put it on. Man, this thing is big - maybe I need to join the C320 association instead.
Seriously, though, what is a good source of mounting brackets to install this thing? When I have my C250, I was thinking of mounting it off the stern railing on the starboard side over top the motor. (Once I do have the boat, I'll have to look at the railing and see whether the perch seats and bimini brackets would interfere with this.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RhythmDoctor</i> <br />Mine arrived today with no apparent damage. All I need now is to get a boat to put it on. Man, this thing is big - maybe I need to join the C320 association instead.
Seriously, though, what is a good source of mounting brackets to install this thing? When I have my C250, I was thinking of mounting it off the stern railing on the starboard side over top the motor. (Once I do have the boat, I'll have to look at the railing and see whether the perch seats and bimini brackets would interfere with this.) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Honestly, I can't think of a good way to mount this thing. You don't want it over your motor as you want to have access for a variety of reasons. Aside from that, mounting it horizontally on the aft rail is really going to block your view to the aft. maybe vertically up the back stay? I should have paid better attention to the specs when I ordered it. No return policy with woot. I have a friend with a hunting cabin I'll probably give it to.
Exactly what size/watt panel did you guys get? I'm installing one myself on the back rail but do to size verses the amount of railing the C25 has the best you are going to fit is around a 10 or 15 watt panel, that is if you still want access to the engine and swim ladder. This is enough to top off your battery's if you just day sail running say a depth sounder, GPS, radio. If you plan on staying out for a few days with heaver power loads yes you will need a bigger panel. The 10 watt panel will top my battery up after day sailing or an over nighter but for anything longer I take the Honda 2000 generator. The flexible panels work very well if you need more wattage and can be strapped just about anywhere.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by islander</i> <br />Exactly what size/watt panel did you guys get? I'm installing one myself on the back rail but do to size verses the amount of railing the C25 has the best you are going to fit is around a 10 or 15 watt panel, that is if you still want access to the engine and swim ladder. This is enough to top off your battery's if you just day sail running say a depth sounder, GPS, radio. If you plan on staying out for a few days with heaver power loads yes you will need a bigger panel. The 10 watt panel will top my battery up after day sailing or an over nighter but for anything longer I take the Honda 2000 generator. The flexible panels work very well if you need more wattage and can be strapped just about anywhere. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
LOL, the panel is 39.4-by-13.8-by-1.2 inches in size and weighs 9.5 pounds. I can see it being useful laying in the cockpit or on the cabin house but I don't plan on mounting it. My current panel, which is a perfect size, is a 5 watt. I wouldn't want to mount anything bigger than that.
I only sail 2 or 3 times a week, but I've had some problems recently with losing charge. I want to be able to night sail, and not having LED running lights means it's a big power drain. Nothing worse than being in the middle of the lake and having your lights go out.
My 10 watt panel is 13x11,and will be mounted in the same spot as yours is but I think your problem is more of a battery issue as is you don't have enough of a battery bank (amps) to support the lights at night. As Kirk said, " We need more power!" On my old boat(a power boat) I had 2 BIG golf cart battery's that gave me 370 amps. They were great, I could run a re frig, TV,water pumps etc. all weekend and still have power left over.
Wow Scott, at 375 amps, you could sell power back to the grid, or atleast back to the dock power grid :)
I recently went through and inventoried my power consumption and found big savings by switching everything over to LEDs. I was estimating needing about 50 amps over 24 hours, and with LEDs, I can cut that to 18 amps.
No fridge, water pumps, or tv though. Just the basics: nav lights, cabin lights, stereo, vhf, and depth sounder.
I use two 32" x 12" 15W panels which usually sit on the cockpit seats when the boat is on the slip during the week. This provides me with enough Amp Hours to replace a weekend's use.
When I'm sailing, I put them away in the quarterberth. If I'm on long run and conditions are not bad, I will place one on the cabin top where it will stay (I use non-slip rug backing material to keep it there).
In my case, given their size, they are not practical to permanently mount on <i>Passage</i>. My ace in the hole is my 12A engine alternator.
My Kyocera 20 Watt is selling for about $184 online where I bought it years ago - Northern Arizona Sun and Wind. This panel is more expensive than some that have been mentioned but the Kyocera is very efficient for it's footprint - 20" X 14". Also, if a small part of the panel is blocked, the panel will still produce some charging while other mono-crystal units will not. The smaller footprint of this panel makes it a bit easier to install permanently and not have to mess with it each time you go sailing. I built my own mounts which allows for tilting for and aft and side to side . This is beneficial especially in winter months when the sun is at a greater angle. The mount also allows for mounting the panel off the stern rail above the motor and the motor can be removed without disturbing the panel. But the panel can also be removed, if necessary, since I have wing nuts for the critical mounting support areas. But in 4 years, the panel has only been removed once and that was when my mast was being rewired. Even then, it was a mionor deal in removing it and reinstalling it.
Has anyone considered putting the panel on top of a bimini? I'm not sure if this would create a depression that would accumulate water instead of it draining off.
How would one do a semi-permanent attachment to keep it from sliding off when heeled? I wonder whether I could apply an adhesive velcro pad to the bottom of the panel, and sew a corresponding pad onto the bimini fabric. I could then route the wire down through one of the backstay cutouts to the pedestal.
I don't actually have my boat yet, so once I get it I may realize that this would be unfeasible. But wondering if anyone else has tried this.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> putting the panel on top of a bimini? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I've laid mine up there only for a short period of time to get it out of the way but wouldn't recommend doing it regularly. If it's rigid the corners will wear/rip the cloth and it will also be sitting in the boom's/sail's shadow cutting it's ability to gather sunlight in half at least. Definitely best to do something like what Larry did.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...If it's rigid the corners will wear/rip the cloth and it will also be sitting in the boom's/sail's shadow cutting it's ability to gather sunlight in half at least... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Thanks for the warning - don't want to damage the cloth! That is something I might not have noticed until the damage was already done. As for the shadow, I think the bimini is installed to go all the way to the aft end of the perch seats - well beyond the end of the boom. I'll have to wait until I take possession of the boat to check this out. But the risk of damage to the fabric overrides that consideration anyway.
You all need to do energy budgets, 'cuz small solar panels will not charge up your small house banks overnight while cruising. The best bet for small panels is to keep your bank up to snuff during the week, not when you're using the boat.
And you should charge up your bank with a shorepower charger unless you can calculate that the panels will charge up the bank during the week, 'cuz among the worst things you can do to a battery is leave it somewhat discharged.
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 02/22/2010 12:29:20
I have a Kyocero 135 watt panel and 400ah's of batteries. I run an Engel refrig/freezer 24/7. I ran a 20 watt panel last year and it wasn't worth the effort. I had to run a generator every other day to charge the batteries. The 135 watt panel is keeping the batteries topped off even with several days of clouds. The smaller wattage panels are nothing more than a trickle charger. It was worth it to go bigger. I purchased mine from Wholesalesolar.com.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.