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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Same. If it comes out milky/sudsy, then there's an issue, maybe just with the washer on the fill hole (which I replace every few years). But think about it--these engines are designed for a lot more intense use and time in the water than yours gets. Annual is probably overkill, but why not??
Annually. "Sudsy" definitely needs to be investigated. As mentioned, it can be as simple as the gasket on the fill or drain plug or, as the money goes up, a shaft seal, or a cracked housing. Change the gasket washers or o-rings and it check again after running it for half an hour or so; if it still looks like oil, I would check it once a week for a month to be sure. If its foamy, take it to a shop.
Water will generally make the oil milky. Once I bought some WM hypoid gear oil for a little outboard--the damned stuff was milky right out of the tube--made that test useless!
Just changed the oil on our o/b yesterday. Best to change it at least annually, and don't let the color of the oil on the dipstick fool you. I didn't change it last year, largely because it still looked clean, a nice clear amber color to it on the stick. Same thing this year but I changed it anyway. (Note: motor is only 2 years old and estimated total hours run time to date is less than 10, maybe even less than 5 hours.) Our marina manager said that, over time using it mostly for very short runs, like getting in and out of the marina, the oil in a 4-stroke motor can get some gas in it through the cylinder rings at start-up, and that this can lower the viscosity of the oil. If it sloshes easily in the recovery jug, then it was definitely time to change it.
Edit: sorry, I wrote about engine oil not gear oil.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />...Our marina manager said that, over time using it mostly for very short runs, like getting in and out of the marina, the oil in a 4-stroke motor can get some gas in it through the cylinder rings at start-up, and that this can lower the viscosity of the oil...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If your dipstick shows more oil than it did when you last filled the crank-case, that's a sign of gasoline getting into it. As said, it's not a good thing.
I agree with Dave on this. Aside from hours, one of the best tests of your engine oil is right in front of your face - yep, your nose.
Even if it looks good, smell it. If it smells burned, change it. If it smells like gasoline, change it. If it smells like anything but clear clean oil out of the oil bottle, change it.
A quart or two of oil costs what? $4? A replacement engine costs what? You all know better than I what this figure is.
I bought one of those oil "pumper-outers" from W*M. It works great when the engine is on the boat mid-season. You don't need to risk falling into the water or losing the oil drain bolt or screwdriver over the side.
And you don't need to risk a water pollution ticket or annoyed dock-mates if your oil accidentally drains into the water.
It doesn't get every last drop, but it gets most of it. I replace the oil filter at the end of the season. Old filters are rated for approximately 2 oil changes, although it is customary to change it with each oil change.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.