Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Thoughts? My most challenging seas will be a journey will bo to Block Island from Greenport this summer. I broke the old tiller crossing LI sound last October in a Nor'Easter. Thank gosh that was all that broke, now I am much more diligent at checking weather.
Thanks all, happy sailing
-Chris OB Cool Yer Heels 1980 C-25 SR/FK L-Dinette Sag Harbor, NY
Chris, I don't know how helpful this will be, but I broke my tiller last year which has the U-channel. It broke due to dry rot at my auto pilot pin socket, and the U-channel had nothing to do with the break.
If I were looking for a new tiller, I'd be more interested in a solid, laminated one, than the steel attachments to the rudder stock. I made a new tiller out of laminated plywood seated in the U-channel and now have a spare solid wood (non-laminated) tiller (bought off of this forum) with the SS straps which I've never used. I will however keep it on the boat from now on.
Last year, I broke my tiller by placing a downward force on the forward end of the tiller. It split right along the lamination where the holes were drilled in line. Not sure if the outcome would have been different if I had the straps with the staggered holes. I repaired the tiller last year to get me through the remainder of the season but bought a new tiller and the straps with the staggered holes. The old one will be cut a bit shorter, reinforced and kept onboard as a spare.
Staggering the holes is advisable. If all the holes are in a single layer of the lamination, that layer will be the first to fail.
I had an old tiller handle that was delaminating, and fixed by regluing it with gorilla glue, and then drilling angled holes through the tiller vertically, and then gluing dowels into these holes. The holes were drilled to oppose one another, so one hole angled aftward, the next foreward, the next aftward, and so on. With the opposing angles on the vertical pins, it became "impossible" for the tiller layers to delaminate in that area, because the layers were pinned by dowels angled in this pattern: / /
This gave me two more years of excellent service out of that tiller, and it was tested in some pretty heavy weather without ever giving me a cause for worry. When it finally delaminated again, it was not in the area I'd pinned and glued, but in the end of the tiller that I hadn't pinned. That time I replaced it with a new handle.
Drilling stainless can be tedious, but staggered holes are a good idea. As for "U" vs flat straps, the "U" would definitely be stronger butI have never broken or worn out a flat strap pair on any boat I've owned in 40+ years. Stainless fittings are not the weak link in the tiller/rudder junction. When "strong" far exceeds any expected load, "stronger" is not an upgrade.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.