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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 06/09/2010 :  17:08:47  Show Profile
Mine is a square tube that slides through some U bolts. A pin is pulled and it is pulled through the U bolts and re-pinned in the extended position. The U bolts are all-thread rod and flat steel. Easy to make.
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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts
Response Posted - 06/10/2010 :  07:52:19  Show Profile
check it out:

http://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/
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dflynnatc
1st Mate

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USA
65 Posts
Response Posted - 06/19/2010 :  18:26:23  Show Profile
Ed, et. al., seeking opinions on viability of this trailer. Posting some pics of the trailer that I can get with ease and inexpensively. Do you think that this trailer will work?.. and if it needs mods, is it worth the agg?

Lenght is 18'4" from front bow stop to stern roller. Bunks are adjustable in and out.. not


Thanks
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Ed Cassidy
Captain

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USA
365 Posts
Response Posted - 06/20/2010 :  00:39:46  Show Profile
I really wouldn't be comfortable passing judgment on a trailer for you to use. I would think that you could get a local trailer shop to check the axle rating and find out what boat it was designed for so that you know what the load limits of the trailer were. That being said, the bunk risers and the frame rails don't look substantial enough to me, but that is simply my opinion.
Ed
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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 06/20/2010 :  05:47:04  Show Profile
I agree with you Ed, that trailer doesn't look substancial enough to me either.
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dflynnatc
1st Mate

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USA
65 Posts
Response Posted - 06/21/2010 :  19:29:28  Show Profile
Ed/Happy D... can you help me understand what you're seeing. Besides bunks instead of rollers is there something different/substantial that you are picking up? What is the wt limits on the trailer in your pics... this is shy at 3800/5000.

Thanks

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i>
<br />I agree with you Ed, that trailer doesn't look substancial enough to me either.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Edited by - dflynnatc on 06/21/2010 19:31:29
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dflynnatc
1st Mate

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USA
65 Posts
Response Posted - 10/17/2010 :  13:56:44  Show Profile
Well the answer was "To Trailer". Bought trailer for 500.00. Cost about 200 to modify. Did it primarily to avoid dependence on yard pull,block and storage fees. Little nerve racking, but all things seem to go well.




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wegman
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts
Response Posted - 10/17/2010 :  14:32:00  Show Profile  Visit wegman's Homepage
Excellent comments. Two other things to consider: make sure that the gross vehicle weight rating of your trailer is at least 7,000 #, and that the carrying capacity of the four tires total at least that amount. If the tires are 10 years old or older, definitely consider replacement. The age of tires is easily determined. There is an oval on the sidewall with the week and year of manufacture. For example, if inside the oval it reads 2608, that means the tires were manufactured in the 26th week of 2008. Tire manufacturers often recommend replacement of trailer tires after only 5 years, but that may be due to liability concerns (and of course marketing concerns).
Good luck.
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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts
Response Posted - 10/17/2010 :  18:26:22  Show Profile
One other thing, the boat should be high enough that you have to lower the swing keel to the boards underneath, even if only slightly. There should be no boat weight bearing down on the keel and boards under the keel. You could end up cracking the top of the keel trunk inside the boat.
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts
Response Posted - 10/17/2010 :  19:26:53  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i>
<br />One other thing, the boat should be high enough that you have to lower the swing keel to the boards underneath, even if only slightly. There should be no boat weight bearing down on the keel and boards under the keel. You could end up cracking the top of the keel trunk inside the boat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Important point--also stated, I believe, in the <i>Owner's Manual</i> (available under <b>Manuals and Brochures</b> on this site).
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skybird
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts
Response Posted - 10/17/2010 :  22:31:12  Show Profile  Visit skybird's Homepage
i have seen extensions that were as simple as a square tube with hitch ball 3 or 4 ft from trailer end of tube and 2 pieces of flat strap welded to the very end such that a pin can be inserted thru holes above the trailer tongue aft of where the tube fits into the hitch. weld on a new hitch at the truck end of the extender and its ready to go. should'nt cost more than $40 or $50 and won't need the dolly wheel or any welding on the trailer itself.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.