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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/07/2010 : 19:43:36

So my new office is across the road from a plastics place that does forming, bonding, and general plastic fabrication.

I went in adn talked with the dude there after work the other day, adn told him about needing the decklight replaced. I think I'll have him gat me the lexan.

Then we got to talking about other stuff worth doing. He suggested that lexan hatchboards can be fabbed quick and cheap. With the right pattern he can make up Starboard rudders, shaped to our foil etc. and can put a rigid core in them if desired.

He has the capability to fabricate a lexan fore-hatch cover, with a vent in it. I mentioned the windows and he can do either replacement "glass" out of lexan, or exterior mounted lexan windows.

Sounds like one-stop shopping, but I need templates for stuff. To me the most interesting "starter" projects are the deadlight and windows, then maybe the hatchboards and rudder.

The fore-hatch sounds super-cool, but pricey.

Anyone gone down the custom fab route with this stuff? Anyone interested in any of this stuff if we can get a batch run going?

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
http://frosthaus.blogspot.com/

Take a minute to register your boat with the association!!
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/owner_questionnaire.htm

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2010 : 20:50:22

Several friends have had a single (top) lexan hatch board made to use above their teak boards--light and privacy.

I wonder whether your guy would like to be a source for Catalina Direct...

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 05:27:31

I am really tempted to try him for the rudder. I can get the template for the balanced rudder off here. When I mentioned the flex some folks have experienced with a starboard rudder, he said he could put a plate of stainless or Alu in the middle (I'm in freshwater), and sandwich it with the starboard to add stiffness. I was concerned with bouyancy. Not sure how well starboard floats, and dunno what the extra weight of the metal would do to that.

I am running over there at lunch today to get the plans for the deadlight to him. That looks like an easy enough job that I could do it in my living room, but it gives me a chance to test run him, and see if he delivers well on his promises. If that goes well, The windows will likely be next.

Does anyone on here have the template for replacing the 3 side windows with a single piece of smoked lexan?

Edited by - Prospector on 07/08/2010 06:06:32

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 09:30:16

More info...

Did a little digging to find a way to bond the lexan to the hull once the deadlight is made. I know this has been covered dozens of other times, but I thought this info might be interesting. This stuff: http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Multipurpose-Glue/WELD-ON-GLUE-IPS10-4OZ will form a chemical bond between the 2 materials, and you can apply th ecatalyst to one face (say the hull) and the epoxy to the other (the deadlight). According to the sellers, the epoxy cures to a waterproof hardness and the deadlight will effectively become part of the FG matrix.

Interesting.

Edited by - on

limey156
1st Mate

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89 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 09:40:02

i would be interested in windows if you figure them out...

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 11:28:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 . . . super-cool, but pricey . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Seems to always work that way - doesn't it?

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 12:46:16

I would be interested in replacing all the teak exterior pieces with starboard.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 12:52:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 I would be interested in replacing all the teak exterior pieces with starboard.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Scott, I believe CD just received their first batch of Starboard handrails . . .

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 13:12:51

So I got the price on the deadlight today.

It will cost me $10 in materials, and $40 in machine time and labour. Smoked Plexi with a bevelled edge - like what you get on a bathroom mirror - tapering from 1/4" at the edges to 3/8" on the exposed portion of the light. Plexi will handle the UV light better than Lexan (who knew!)

The lesson here is that CD gets its discount on the volumes they buy in. If I bought 4 of these and split the machine/labour time between them, I would match CD's price since most of the labour/machine time is in the setup.

I wonder how much that time will cost when it comes time to buy the rudder - all that shaping has to come at a cost. I'll need 27 guys to go in with me on that one so I can handle the pricing...

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 19:22:35

I would be interested in windows ... not sure what shipping cost would be though.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 20:02:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 . . . I'll need 27 guys to go in with me on that one so I can handle the pricing . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sign me up Chris!

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2010 : 20:13:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Jan Briede
 . . . I would be interested in windows . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'm not sure I would recommend Plexiglass (or Lexan) for the original aluminum frames. There's a lot of work involved removing/reinstalling the glass in those frames - so much so that I would want to use something much more scratch resistant, i.e., glass. I had smoked glass made for the aluminum frames at an auto glass store.

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2010 : 13:50:26

The boat a have has no aluminum frames in three of the windows anyway , So I am looking in putting in different types of windows. Like in this posting: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21699&SearchTerms=Window

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2010 : 13:57:55

Yes Jan - that is essentially the approach I would want too, except that rather than create 3 pieces, I would just do one long section of acrylic. By th etime I pay for machine time to setup and cut 3 windows, its just not going to be worth it. The plastics shop suggested taping some paper to teh hull and drawing the shape I want, then bringing that piece in to use a s a template to cut from. Since I have access to rolls of plotter paper, that shouldn't be difficult for me to do.

Once they cut the plastic though, it will be flat, and need to be curved to the contour of the coach house. I think plexi can be heated and will bend. I'm not sure though. Also if I get teh bronze or smoked plexi, I may need to paint the FG behind it black or it will show through and look pretty funky.Not sure on that either. I am still processing options of all this, as is pretty obvious by the posts in this thread. (Remember SWMBO still wants the boat outo f our lives, so everything I do is on borrowed time.)

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2010 : 08:16:10

Let me know how it goes, that sounds like a neat idea.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2010 : 10:42:31

Well, I picked up my deadlight at lunch. Dark smoked lexan, with a 3/4" bevel on the outside (like you would get on a mirror) to reduce it from the 5/16 to 1/4" thickness. I think will give the strength of the CD part, while fitting teh cutout of the original. Should look good. Now I need to get some Sikaflex and take a router to the marina for a work day. I stopped by anotehr Catalina at teh marina to take a look at his plate - he has the CD replacement - and I think this looks a lot better, but then I am biased.

I'll put picks on teh Iris blog once its done.

While there I asked about minimums for a production run, adn they suggested no fewer than 10 parts. If you want to be added to a waitlist, let me know. Once I get enough people on the list I will call in and get a price with current materials/labour costs. I got dark smoked plexi, but they also have clear, milky, tan, and the dark stuff I got.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2010 : 16:09:32

I'm not sure as to why you need a router. When I replaced my dead light last year, The indentation that the light sits in was all fiberglassed and gel coated. Did I miss something?

Edited by - islander on 07/21/2010 16:11:16

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2010 : 17:31:54

Yeahn - the PO installed ours with 5200. No way that bad boy is coming out with candy and flowers. This is the place for powertools. It will leave a nice clean bottom and straight edges if I can get it going right.

I used an air grinder to to cut the installation hole for our solar charge controller and it worked well. I may start with that and work up to the router, but I foresee routing to remove the 5200 (which incidentally has more holding power, but no more sealing power than 4200.)

Edited by - on

MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2010 : 21:16:39

I'm getting confused, are you looking for 10 to buy the deck lights, I need on. Or ten people to go in on rudders, or any one particular item? I could use a new balanced rudder, but my wife would shoot me if I bought one.

Edited by - on

mrapkins
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 04:29:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 Yes Jan - that is essentially the approach I would want too, except that rather than create 3 pieces, I would just do one long section of acrylic. By th etime I pay for machine time to setup and cut 3 windows, its just not going to be worth it. The plastics shop suggested taping some paper to teh hull and drawing the shape I want, then bringing that piece in to use a s a template to cut from. Since I have access to rolls of plotter paper, that shouldn't be difficult for me to do.

Once they cut the plastic though, it will be flat, and need to be curved to the contour of the coach house. I think plexi can be heated and will bend. I'm not sure though. Also if I get teh bronze or smoked plexi, I may need to paint the FG behind it black or it will show through and look pretty funky.Not sure on that either. I am still processing options of all this, as is pretty obvious by the posts in this thread. (Remember SWMBO still wants the boat outo f our lives, so everything I do is on borrowed time.)
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I would advise against a "one-piece approach". A colleague did this on their Hunter and thermal expansions has caused multiple cracks in the acrylic and consequently, multiple leaks!

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 07:32:14

<< I'm not sure as to why you need a router. When I replaced my dead light last year, The indentation that the light sits in was all fiberglassed and gel coated. Did I miss something? >>

When I dropped the CD direct acrylic replacement in on my deck the sharp pointy corners were sticking up just enough to cut a barefoot. I had to sand mine down and I wished I'd had a sander/router to just cut the edge on the deck so the deadlight would have dropped down lower than the deck and the edges would have been bedded in caulk.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 09:10:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by MattL
 I'm getting confused, are you looking for 10 to buy the deck lights, I need on. Or ten people to go in on rudders, or any one particular item? I could use a new balanced rudder, but my wife would shoot me if I bought one.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

10 folks to do deadlights. I wouldn't recommend on other stuff until I've seen their work.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 09:16:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by redeye
 

When I dropped the CD direct acrylic replacement in on my deck the sharp pointy corners were sticking up just enough to cut a barefoot. I had to sand mine down and I wished I'd had a sander/router to just cut the edge on the deck so the deadlight would have dropped down lower than the deck and the edges would have been bedded in caulk.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

In the learning from others area...

The CD part is 5/16" to allow more strength and less flexing - means the seal will last longer. Good Idea.

The original CY part is 1/4" and that is what the deck is recessed to receive.

The part I had made is 1/4" at teh edge, but 5/16" in the centre. This means the bearing surface in the deck should be holding a 5/16 thickness to give full strength to the part. The edge of teh part though is only 1/4" thich, so it should sit nicely in the original recess CY intended. All I did was put a bevel on the edges of the pieces so there is a nice gradual transition from 1/4" to 5/16.

Once the part is installed I'll post up some photos (and maybe put up some pics of the Remote control for teh OB and the A-Frame at teh same time.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 11:22:52

Ran to teh local Chandlery at lunch and they advised Boatlife over Sikaflex for this. If the planets align I will get this done tonight/tomorrow. Otherwise it has to wait on the list.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 17:09:29

Boy I didn't have any problems with the new dead light from CD. I Had to radius the four corners with some sand paper just to take the points off but that was it. It sits in there perfectly level with the deck. I used Life Seal as the adhesive and put a weight on it overnight. Maybe there is a difference between boat years.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2010 : 20:36:03

Got home to a honey-do list. No sailing time tonight. I'm hoping to do the install on teh weekend.

Scott, I'm glad the CD part worked out for you. After hearing ray's story, I checked in with some C-27 owners at the marina, and they had had similar experiences to Ray's so I figured I would try to find another approach. Of course the part hasn't been put in yet so I can't say whether its a success or not yet.

I am hoping to get to the boat on Sat. AM.

Edited by - on

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