Association Forum - Question to internal halyard owners

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Question to internal halyard owners

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/24/2010 : 19:19:43

I was inspecting the mast hardware of our new-to-us C25 today and discovered it has internal halyards (from the factory.) I became slightly alarmed when I didn't see any turning blocks on the mast step - but I also noticed how low the halyards exit the mast.

As the halyards exit the mast only a few inches above deck - are they lead directly to/thru the deck orgainizers?

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2010 : 21:22:26

I felt the angle was too much and created a tripping hazard. I put turning blocks at the mast step and was pleased with the result, it led more fairly to the deck organizer as well. I replaced the exit boxes on mine so I would have new sheaves in the base of the mast. I also replaced the deck organizer sheaves with the ball bearing upgrade.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2010 : 05:16:13

Thank you Frank, ugh, your photo shows this very well. I have no plate under he mast step for attaching blocks. I am/was concerned about the halyards chaffing on the organizers. All of the ball bearings, sheaves need to be replaced. Launching on 31-Jul regardless . . . the 2011 list is hereby initiated!

Edited by - OJ on 07/25/2010 05:17:59

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2010 : 11:51:53

I've got an '89 like Franks and I've had no problems with chafing or with tripping but if I had a mast plate like Frank did I would make the same changes. I don't notice any major problems with friction when hoisting or dropping sail but Frank's setup has to make things work smoother.

Remember, you can never be too safe.

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2010 : 11:04:05

OJ,

You can get the plate for attaching blocks at Catalina Direct. It attaches with the original 4 bolts/bolt holes holding the mast step in place. It opens a lot of possibilities including Frank's idea. I've run my two reefing lines and rigid vang control line back to the cockpit with blocks anchored on the plate. Also like Frank I changed the box sheeves from one to two ball bearing type sheeves. I was able to add a second jib halyard as a result and am considering putting my spinnaker halyard in the mast. The location of the internal wiring & conduit may prevnet this mod though.

Edited by - on

Kip C
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2010 : 15:10:07

Any opinions on an internal topping lift?
Thanks,

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/27/2010 : 19:38:57

Remember there is also wiring rambling around in most masts so the fewer lines inside the better. However, the 89s had conduit inside the mast so the internal column is much "cleaner" if you install a wiring conduit.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 06:52:08

I've got an 89 and no helper blocks for my internal halyards. Things work very well and I'm adamant about keeping a simple clean boat with less things to go wrong.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 07:44:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveR
 I've got an 89 and no helper blocks for my internal halyards. Things work very well and I'm adamant about keeping a simple clean boat with less things to go wrong.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">KISS!

However, I think turning blocks would also reduce the wear and tear on the exit blocks. Spoke with CD and the exit blocks they offer don't have ball bearings. I'm going to check around.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 08:41:29

They should not have ball bearings. The general rule is a block that holds a static load should be a bushing block and blocks that merely direct running rigging should have ball bearings. Bearings concentrate the load on very small round surfaces, non bearing blocks spread the load over a much larger bushing surface. Ball bearings are not always an "upgrade".

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 09:46:46

1988 models also have a wiring conduit in the mast.

If you have the mast conduit, I see nothing wrong with a topping lift rigged through the mast. You will need to increase the number of sheeves at the mast head though. I now have four, two more than original. See past threads for sizes.

Regarding "simple and clean"...... the basic boat is a day sailer only. Even the options offered on the C25/250 did/do not make for a properly equipped sailing vessel that is safe in most conditions, racing or cruising.

Equipment additions can be added, with for-thought, so that the outcome is "simple and clean". Teh only limitation is how much you wnat to spend for the sailing you intend doing.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 10:26:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pastmember
 They should not have ball bearings. The general rule is a block that holds a static load should be a bushing block and blocks that merely direct running rigging should have ball bearings. Bearings concentrate the load on very small round surfaces, non bearing blocks spread the load over a much larger bushing surface. Ball bearings are not always an "upgrade".
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Apparently the bushings in my exit blocks are just worn out. I get the feeling there is no bronze bushing in these sheaves.

Thanks again Frank . . . more proof that sailng is a life-long learning experience!

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/28/2010 : 11:59:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Regarding "simple and clean"...... the basic boat is a day sailer only. Even the options offered on the C25/250 did/do not make for a properly equipped sailing vessel that is safe in most conditions, racing or cruising.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

True, but this particular addition does nothing to make the boat more seaworthy, as with many upgrades we talk about here. And in my opinion a clean clutter free boat is more functional and easier to sail than a crowded one.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.