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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Gudgeon placement . . .

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/06/2010 : 19:01:19

Well, I was so thorough (perhaps a little too thorugh) filling in and gel coating over the old gudgeon screw holes that I have no reference points for positioning them again.

If anyone has any pix of their transom for C25 - I would appreciate it. Vertical measurements would be a bonus!

Preparing a jig to ensure all the holes are drilled perfectly straight so with any luck the new hardware will not bind - on the first try.

Edited by - on

bigelowp
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Response Posted - 08/06/2010 : 19:06:58

You might want to invest in having a professional do the drilling so all holes are straight and in position

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OJ
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Response Posted - 08/06/2010 : 19:30:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bigelowp
 You might want to invest in having a professional do the drilling so all holes are straight and in position
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Thank you Peter

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2010 : 20:48:24

Congratulations on doing such a fine job that you've arrived at this mystery!

I did not mount new gudgeons for my new balance rudder, but I figured out the pintle positions on the blade based on the following criteria: (1) The "step" on the rudder needed to be a given position below the skeg--I picked something a little over an inch, I think... (2) the tiller had to be able to lift to a decent angle under the traveler to free up space in the cockpit, so should not be too high above the transom.

The horizontal placement should simply be based on a measurment from the corners of the transom at the rubrail, and at given measurements below it.

Now, the original gudgeons were screwed into threaded holes in bronze bars that were bonded to the inside of the transom. If your new bolt positions are very close to the originals, you might have a complication. If you drill into the bronze, I guess you can just push through and put a washer and nut on the other side.

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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2010 : 04:57:25

Best follow Dave's instructions also. Double check everything.

This is where they are on mine. I am surprised at the fact they were exactly 4" and 19" to the top surface of the gudgeon. Note the transome trip piece is not there.

My wife gave me the idea to stuff foam earplugs into the holes when I gelcoated. It was easy to punch them out after.

Edited by - Happy D on 08/07/2010 05:03:52

Happy D
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Response Posted - 08/07/2010 : 07:11:05

Can't you see the lower holes from inside?

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OJ
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Response Posted - 08/07/2010 : 08:02:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 . . . the original gudgeons were screwed into threaded holes in bronze bars <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Thank you for your input as usual Dave, I value it highly.
The bronze bars have been disposed of - they were full of crooked holes from the (D)PO's feeble attempt to install the J24 hardware. I have four new stainless bars that I will bed into Marine-Tex, then through bolt.
On the lower portion of the inside of the 89 transom there is a 5" wide depression in the center. I ground off the gel coat and applied 7-9 layers of fiberglass mat - just make the entire surface uniform and add a little strength.
The crooked holes in the rudder have been filled in as well - I have a completely blank slate!
Tomorrow we slap a piece of 2X yellow pine on the drill press to create a drill jig. Naturally, the jig will keep the drill bit straight when we drill through the transom. One crooked hole could throw the alignment off from the other three straps/gudgeons - resulting in binding again.
News at 11 . . .

Edited by - OJ on 08/07/2010 08:18:46

OJ
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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2010 : 08:12:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Happy D
 Can't you see the lower holes from inside?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Hi Dan, perfectly logical question. If you read the above you'll understand why I can no longer see the lower holes. As for the uppers, there are too many crooked holes created by the previous owner.
Thank you very much for taking the time to create and post the pix - this gives me back a baseline.

What a valuable website this can be!

Edited by - OJ on 08/07/2010 08:20:23

OJ
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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 18:36:35

Can anyone tell me the distance between the transom and the rudder?

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 19:07:15

That's a function of your pintles and gudgeons, and it seems you have a different combination from the rest of us. Put 'em together, and there's your answer.

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OJ
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Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 08:29:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 That's a function of your pintles and gudgeons, and it seems you have a different combination from the rest of us. Put 'em together, and there's your answer.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You are correct . . . the J24 straps are different from the original equipment - and there's a fair amount of leeway where I can position the rudder (fore and aft) within the straps. I am not sure how much (if any) this positioning impacts performance.

Good excuse to make a trip the marina and do some measuring!

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 10:43:01

OK, I'll make a guess... The leading edge of my rudder along the transom (above the waterline) was probably 2-1/2 to 3" back, as a function of the pintles and gudgeons. Below the pintles, the rudder steped forward to maybe 1 to 1-1/2" from the skeg. Below the skeg, the Catalina balanced rudder steps forward of the transom. Closer is probably better to minimize turbulence around the blade, but as I mentioned somewhere else, I suspected it'd be easier to free a hooked lobster pot warp if it wasn't jammed between the rudder and the hull. Besides, only a tiny bit of the hull (basically just the skeg) is immersed in front of a small part of the blade.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/12/2010 10:45:00

Happy D
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Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 16:50:48

Oops, here I am asleep at the wheel....sorry OJ

Holes in rudder are 1" from the forward edge.

Holes in the pintle are 3" from the transom.

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Happy D
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Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 17:12:50

Do you need the height of the holes in the transom?

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 19:50:17

So there's the answer. I was 1/2" off.

(But I haven't had the boat for 3-1/2 years.)

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