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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

bilge pumps

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/10/2010 : 06:25:52

Has anyone tried using the toilet wax ring stuff to seat a bilge pump?
Would there be too much vibration for it to work?

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2010 : 07:08:32

Bilge pump needs to be screwed down, secured.

What is the problem, why would you even consider that?

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2010 : 10:28:46

I don't like drilling holes in the boat! Bilge is dry at the moment, but I have bought a bilge pump, so I was just curious if it would work. I have some 1/4" starboard, was going to mount it to that with screws, then use adhesive or the wax ring stuff to secure the starboard piece to the hull.

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piseas
Former Treasurer

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USA
2017 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2010 : 13:57:39

David, I hear you re drilling. Here is a suggestion. If you have fixed keel how about placing piece of wood across the keel bolts, drilling a hole in the wood to fit the bolts. Then drill hole in the wood to fit the pump. Sorry I dont have pic as this was only in my mind.
Steve A

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2010 : 14:32:12

I installed a small bilge pump (rule 500 auto) in a previous boat by removing the strainer from the bottom of the pump and gluing it in place with 4 small dabs of 4200 around the perimeter. Once that has cured just snap the pump body into the strainer. This was on a powerboat right under the rear of the engine so it got its fair share of "Bad environment" and never came loose. The reason was to get the pump as low as possible. I don't think that adhesives will stick very well to Starboard.

Edited by - islander on 08/10/2010 15:12:49

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2010 : 19:35:49

I have a swing keel, so the space between the outer hull and the cabin floor around the keel trunk is too shallow to install the pump there. Understood re: Starboard and adhesives. On to Plan B, whatever that is.I was thinking of installing the pump in the "dumpster" on the floor at the deep end under the electrical panels.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 05:55:19

Well anyhoo.. I would not think twice about drilling. Drill it, whack it, drill it, and screw it.

I use a drill that I have added tape to the end of the drill bit to make sure I don't go too deep. The screws are only like 3/8 long and I hand tighten them in to bed the basket for the pump.

When I've used wood screws it was a little more damaging to the area I was screwing into, but I've used them. Sometime cracks the surface around the screw.

I've used machine screws and they work well. I'd test the size of my drill first on a part of the fiberglass that is hidden and get the screw and drill bit size to match up. The opening needs to be very close to the screw size with the machine screws. The fiberglass/resin is very hard.

It is key to use a punch to make the location for the drill. You hit the punch with a hammer to score the fiberglass, which keeps your drill bit from wandering when you start.

Now if you are gonna put the Leon to it, over drill the holes and first fill with resin, then re-drill in the resin, which is correct. I have not done that yet. I probably would when adding screws in a wet area.

Again I think the only thing that throws people is you hafta whack the punch with a hammer to score the resin to position the holes properly. A sharp, small ended punch.

Personally, I'd want that pump secure as can be. If it pops out and turns on it would kill the battery.

I think it is all really easy, you just wanna know the drill.

IMHO

But you are skinnin this cat....... Go on and do what you wanna do and show us some pictures...Like you said, you don't want to make any holes. I'll probably glue up my next one after reading the 4200 suggestion. I do think the bottom of the dumpster is a hard area to work in no matter what you do.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 10:08:12

I would suggest placing it in the bilge near midline under the quarterberth as far forward as you can. Either gluing the strainer down as suggested or sealing a small block of wood with epoxy and bring machine screws up from the bottom before gluing the wood in place or just screwing to it.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 08/11/2010 10:09:08

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9082 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 10:57:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 I would suggest placing it in the bilge near midline under the quarterberth as far forward as you can... sealing a small block of wood with epoxy and bring machine screws up from the bottom before gluing the wood in place or just screwing to it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Sounds better to me than drilling into the hull... I'm thinking you could do this with Starboard and (gasp) a little blob of 5200 on each corner, including up around the top of the corner. It's generally a less aggressive adhesive than epoxy, but might have a better chance of adhering to Starboard.

As for Leon's overdrill-fill-redrill, that's for bolting through wood core, which you don't have in the hull (except for the keel stub in a fin-keel boat).

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/11/2010 11:00:20

jking
Navigator

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110 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 11:47:33

David: I installed an electric bilge pump last summer. There is a factory installed wood board painted with Kilz, about 6 x 6" in size, about 1" thick, attached to the bilge with epoxy. I attached the bilge pump to that using 1" screws; so far no problem.

John

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jking
Navigator

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110 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2010 : 11:52:33

BTW, David, thanks for your reply regarding my whisker pole mast ring. Unfortunately, we have not had the boat in the water this summer due to multiple family issues out of town, including my father in law's death in June. I am probably not going to have the chance to raise the mast until September, when I am planning to trailer to Annapolis with friends for a week.

John

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 07:23:50

Starboard is unreliable with any adhesive, but polyethers (WM Multicaulk) have the best chance of sticking. Sealed wood works fine, and not coming loose is much more important than removability.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 09:13:02

I like the idea of using 4200 to glue the strainer to the hull. I'll probably try that first.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2010 : 15:01:32

Dave, If you do glue it down put a small dab of 4200 in 4 places (o'clock, o'clock, o'clock o'clock ) and bring the 4200 up the side and squish some into the strainer slots. This will lock it in place. You can roughen up the hull with some sand paper also. If you ever want to remove it just cut it from the hull with a razor.

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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2010 : 16:51:09

FWIW, I used 4200 to glue a piece of Walmart cutting board (basically Starboard) to the hull & screwed the strainer into that. The 4200 oozed out around and over one end, "keying" the board in. This did not happen on the other end, and the board did not adhere. But I was able to add Krazy Glue on top of the cured 4200 to make it adhere on that side. It's in there well enough & could be removed with a scraper if I ever need full unrestricted access to the keel bolts.

No way I'd drill holes down there!

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