Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Good Evening We moor our boat at the mouth of Naragansett Bay RI. I'm trying to do a little contingency planning should we need to pull the boat. Up until now the marina has launched and retreived the boat.We aren't on the pull out list-.
I've studied the mast raising systems in the Tech section. Which would be the easiest to use to lower the mast? Any words of wisdom? Number of people needed? Can it be done on the mooring or should we lower it at the dock?
What model (C25, C250, etc...), tall rig or standard rig, and what keel do you have (swing, fixed, wing, etc...). These may or may not make a difference. Others can chime in.
Are you going on a trailer or a stand?
I have a C25 standard rig, wing keel and I'd recommend the A-Frame system. For my purposes it's about the easiest to setup. You want something simple and easy to setup since you may not have much time to get things organized and get out.
At least two, maybe three people just to be safe and speed up the process.
It can be done on the mooring as long as you have calm waters. The dock would be better and more convenient. If you have a swing or wing keel it might even be easier on a trailer depending on how much wind and waves you have.
Not having done it, I wouldn't try dropping the mast with any fewer than three people--probably four. A team of two people who have experience with the best system can do fine, but that wouldn't include you or me.
Shauneen, does your trailer have the mast raising post on the trailer tounge? If it does, then that makes the raising/lowering on the trailer a cakewalk.
To LOWER you don't need the A-frame. To raise, you should consider one. I haven't done this on a swing keel, but on a fin it works fine. I would lower th ekeel were I in your position, then raise it once the mast was down.
Lowering without the A-frame is easy with 2 people and a heavy dose of common sense. I find a third person on the dock to keep "helpers" away is a good thing. Also, keep all your movements over the keel as much as possible. This is no time to rock the boat.
Cleat off your mainsail halyard to the mast. Lead its running end forward to a sheave held in the tack shackle for the jib, then back to a cabintop winch. Tension teh line and put a few turns on the winch and cleat it off. Release the forward lower shrouds.
Release the forestay, maintaining tension on the halyard. If you have a furler, you will need to fiddle with it at this point. I know nothing about furlers.
Slowly let out the halyard while guiding the mast down to the pushpit, holding it on centre. Undo the bolt at teh mast step while sitting on the mast to prevent it from popping out of the step.
Slide the mast forward and lash it to the pulpit and pushpit for transport.
This can also be done lowering the mast forward, which makes it a lot easier to walk the mast down, but I am told that it's crazy talk to discuss such tom-foolery, so stick with the status quo and lower aft.
My wife and I can have the boom off and mast lowered in under an hour working together, no need for an A-frame or crane. Raising the mast and tuning the rig takes considerably longer.
One more note - You likely don't have to remove the mainsail from the boom when removing the boom from the mast. leave teh sailties on it, and you can slip the whole assembly out of the slot in one go, then stow it below (we put it in the Quarterberth) this will save you the time of removing the sail and having to fold it. Especially if you will be putting the mast back on in a few days.
If you are decommisioning for teh season though, I would remove th emainsail from the boom, fold it, and stow it in its bag.
Be aware that when using a halyard from the bow to lower the mast, the closer the halyard comes to being parallel with the mast, the less upward force it can apply to the mast. When the mast and line become very close to parallel, the halyard won't be holding the mast up at all. Somewhere before that, a tiny bit of stretch in the halyard will let the mast descend in a hurry. A sturdy person can handle it, but should be expecting what can be a rapid increase in downward force. We don't want anyone getting hurt following our advice!
four people, five better one TALL guy straddling the cockpit seats at the transom another TALL guy straddling the cockpit seats at the companionway one short guy at the mast facing the bow one guy on the dock with the end of the jib halyard
belay the bitter end of the jib halyard to the mast loosen upper shrouds a couple of turns take the forwards shrouds completely off the chain plates so they hang loose. Dock guy with shackle end of halyard should apply tension to the mast. short guy from mast base comes forward and releases the forestay. Short guy goes back to mast base and prepares to handle the load for the period of arc where the halyard man looses mechanical advantage and the first TALL guy at the companionway still does not have the mast in his upreached arms. Short guy lowers mast to Companion way dude who then lowers it to the transom dude. Short guy now must take the mast bolt out of the mast step, (nut should already be backed off so no tools are needed. Mast man MUST exert downward pressure when mast is released from mast step or it WILL go over backwards into the water. Halyard dude now is at pullpit with cushion ready to accept the base of the mast as it is passed forward. Remove Windex put cushion under mast head at the stern rail and tie up for hauling. Fifth person is an "oh crap" person who is free to handle anything that might need doing as mast is being lowered.
I hate having an OH Crap Dude. By the time that guy runs to the rescue, th emast will be down and the stern rail bent. If he moves to fast, the boat will rock, swinging the mast from side to side and creating trouble. Oh crap dudes tend to LOOK for reasons to be called to action, thereby creating their own need.
Are we the only ones using the cabintop winches to overcome the mechanical advantage problems? My wife (all 100 lbs of her) usually handles the lines while I stand under the mast guiding it down. She has never had trouble with the weight of the mast getting beyond what she can handle. We've done this at least a dozen times now.
Two people, me and my wife. Remove the mainsheet from the boom and the traveler (I now have a dedicated block and tackle) and release the forestay. Attach the mainsheet blocks to the forestay and the deck. Release the forward lowers, no need to loosen any other stays. Wife mans the mainsheet and I pull the mast towards the stern. She lowers the mast while I guide it and keep it centered. At the point where the mechanical advantage from the mainsheet ceases to hold the mast up, I lower it by hand from around shoulder height to waist height and set it into the mast crutch. This is done while standing on the top of the coach roof. We've done it probably 20 or so times. I then remove the mast pivot bolt and walk the bottom of the mast forward to the bow rail and lash it down. I would guess the mast weighs around 60 pounds or so (standard rig). The fear and apprehension surrounding lowering the mast far outweighs the actual process. The first time I did it I had four strong men to help but now, it's just us two and usually a half dozen onlookers.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Attach the mainsheet blocks to the forestay and the deck.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> How do you make the connection between the blocks and the forestay?
I loosen the forestay turnbuckle, remove the pin from the turnbuckle where it mounts to the stem fitting, remove the stay and reinstall the pin in the turnbuckle. I then attach the top block to the turnbuckle pin with a rigging toggle and I use a quick release pin to connect the lower block to the stem fitting. Like I said, I now have a dedicated block and tackle but it's the same kind of connection. Ed
Ok. I see how you drop the mast and how you can raise it using the A-frame. There are several different approaches for "staffing" to catch the mast when it comes down, and cradling it using a stern crotch or resting it on the stern pulpit. I see how you manage the boom and main sail. I get how you use the mainsheet and winch. And, once you try it, do it a few time and get the hang of it, you can do it like a pro. Used to do it solo every time I rigged my 16 foot day sailer with it's 30 pound mast. Of course a 100 pound mast requires much more strength, control of momentum and coordination among the crew.
But the big question for me is how do you carefully handle the foils for your furler? I absolutely don't want to bend or destroy it. Do you first have to remove the headsail from the foil? Do you have to carefully take the furler apart piece by piece before you can drop the mast? When you reverse the process, do you have to put it back together as the mast goes up? Or, can you just let the whole thing come down onto the deck as you drop the mast back onto the stern? [Edit] If so, what do you have to loosen or disconnect to eliminate the tension on the furler? That's the tricky part for me.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Two people, me and my wife. Remove the mainsheet from the boom and the traveler (I now have a dedicated block and tackle) and release the forestay. Attach the mainsheet blocks to the forestay and the deck. Release the forward lowers, no need to loosen any other stays. Wife mans the mainsheet and I pull the mast towards the stern. She lowers the mast while I guide it and keep it centered. At the point where the mechanical advantage from the mainsheet ceases to hold the mast up, I lower it by hand from around shoulder height to waist height and set it into the mast crutch. This is done while standing on the top of the coach roof. We've done it probably 20 or so times. I then remove the mast pivot bolt and walk the bottom of the mast forward to the bow rail and lash it down. I would guess the mast weighs around 60 pounds or so (standard rig). The fear and apprehension surrounding lowering the mast far outweighs the actual process. The first time I did it I had four strong men to help but now, it's just us two and usually a half dozen onlookers.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ed, How long is your mainsheet? I wouldn't want to get the mast half way down and run out of line but I like the idea. Also you don't use a gin pole?
I'm not sure how long the mainsheet is but the end of the forestay only gets 7 or so feet from the stem fitting. No, I don't use a gin pole. Next time I'll take some pictures. Ed
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.