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From Trailer to Stands without a crane?

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Michael Meyering
1st Mate

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USA
52 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/05/2010 : 06:19:51

C 25 fin keel- Any techniques or tips for getting it from trailer to stands with a crane? Invite 50 good friends over to help?

thanks
Mike

Jesus is the Lifeguard of the world

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2010 : 06:02:33

Mike,

I was told by the prior owner that I could get the stands positioned to where the trailer could be pulled out. I have looked at it multiple times and don't think it is a good idea.

I talked to my friend Jon and he said their marina could strap it in let me leave it on the stands for a couple of months for just a couple $100. This is worth it to know the boat is safely moved.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2010 : 07:45:32

I'm curious as to why? You'll need either a crane (or Travelift) to return to the trailer or to re-launch. I'm just curious why you want to do this.

Chris, the pull it out method wouldn't work for my trailer and I can't imagine it working for a C-25 either. If you were to catch one of the stands on the way out, it's all over but the crying.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2010 : 08:05:44

I should think it will involve dropping the trailer tongue to raise the stern, setting stands at the stern, and then raising the tongue enough to set a cross beam on stands (hopefully without over-stressing the trailer pad supports, balance the whole thing so it won't tip over, lower the trailer pads enough to clear the cross beam to get the trailer out from under the boat, set blocks under the keel and reposition the stands as needed. Then reverse the process to get the boat back on the trailer to launch.
Frankly, I wouldn't want to try it. Be money well spent to hire a crane or heavy truck wrecker to help support the boat while you pull the trailer out and get the stands positioned properly.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2010 : 09:05:06

Yikes!

But he did say "with a crane"... Maybe we need to know more about the crane.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 09/06/2010 09:08:40

Michael Meyering
1st Mate

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USA
52 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2010 : 18:16:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 I'm curious as to why? You'll need either a crane (or Travelift) to return to the trailer or to re-launch. I'm just curious why you want to do this.

Chris, the pull it out method wouldn't work for my trailer and I can't imagine it working for a C-25 either. If you were to catch one of the stands on the way out, it's all over but the crying.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My fin keel C 25 is in the water- I want to move it to my home to work on it there- bottom job, etc. I would then like to be able to rent the trailer to others until I need it again- but might just nee to keep in on the trailer until I re-launch. Thanks to all for your input.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2UkTGyess0 fixed keel haul-out with trailer

Edited by - on

jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2010 : 17:52:06

If I wanted to get my Cat 250WK off my trailer without a crane I would :
1) Drive the loaded trailer up on 2 x 10 inch wood planks on a flat hard surface.
2) Build two giant size sawhorses to support the boat. One would go in front of the keel. The other saw horse would go aft of the keel. Each saw horse would be made with a beam perpendicular to the boat's center line long enough so that tripod legs on each end of the horizontal beam would come down 12 inches or more outside the trailer. The legs would be long enough to put the beams very close to the bottom of the boat.
3) Add contoured, carpet padded, 4 x 4's on top of the beams to fit the boat's bottom curvature.
4) With the horses under the boat attach them to each other with fore & aft planks to complete a rectangle around the keel very close to the boat's bottom.
5) Let air out of the trailer tires to lower the boat onto the saw horses.
6) Retract the telescoping boat supports on my trailer. If the trailer is still too high to roll out then pull out the boards under the tires.
7) Roll the trailer out.

Edited by - jbkayaker on 10/06/2010 18:05:29

Stuff4Toys
1st Mate

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USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2010 : 18:32:26

We just did this with our swing keel. Wish I would have taken pictures, I'll try and get them when we load it back on the trailer.

We lowered the trailer tongue with a floor jack so we could get it all the way down. Blocked up the back end with cement blocks with 2x6 pads on top.

Raised the front of the trailer as high as we could get it with blocks on the floor jack.

Slid a beam made of 4 - 2x6 x 12' under the front of the boat and supported the ends with boat jacks.

Then we rolled the trailer out from under the boat.

Supported the front with another stack of cement blocks in the center right in front of the keel and lowered the jacks.

At this point we used the two jacks on either side in front to help balance and stabilize the boat from side to side movement.

We are imagining it will all go back together the same way.

JOhn ><>

Edited by - on

Stuff4Toys
1st Mate

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USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2010 : 18:36:28

Like This

Oh Yeah and looking at the keel reminds me that, THAT's what the whole bottom of the boat looked like a month ago.

Edited by - Stuff4Toys on 10/06/2010 18:37:34

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2010 : 19:19:02

Rent a construction crane. They come, do th elift, leave, all in about half an hour. Cost around $150. They are also insured.

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Stuff4Toys
1st Mate

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USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 04:50:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 Rent a construction crane. They come, do th elift, leave, all in about half an hour. Cost around $150. They are also insured.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I called around here and they wanted a $400 minimum.

Edited by - on

pfduffy
Captain

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USA
317 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 10:19:30

I don't have much to add except that I've heard the sound a small boat (O'day mariner) makes when being dropped during an unsuccessful transfer from jacks to a trailer. It is a sickening sound and I would expect a c-25 to be worse!

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 11:43:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stuff4Toys
I called around here and they wanted a $400 minimum.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You should move to Toronto then

Edited by - on

Stuff4Toys
1st Mate

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USA
83 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 12:28:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Prospector
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stuff4Toys
I called around here and they wanted a $400 minimum.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You should move to Toronto then

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Bbbrrrrrrrrr That's why I moved to Florida (Cold not crane prices)

Edited by - on

Ed Cassidy
Captain

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USA
365 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 17:05:05

I hope this is taken the right way, but the cement blocks are a heartbeat away from disaster. they are so fragile that one tiny bump could cause them to collapse. Next time you have a spare block, tap it lightly with a hammer. It looks like you took some precautions to stack them doubled and to put wood blocks on top but they are just not designed to handle the weight like that. Please put some wood cribbing under the boat before you start re-installing the keel.
Thanks,
Ed

Edited by - on

Michael Meyering
1st Mate

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USA
52 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2010 : 18:42:58

Thanks again to all for your input

Edited by - on

NCBrew
Captain

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USA
338 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 08:13:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stuff4Toys
 We just did this with our swing keel. Wish I would have taken pictures, I'll try and get them when we load it back on the trailer.

We lowered the trailer tongue with a floor jack so we could get it all the way down. Blocked up the back end with cement blocks with 2x6 pads on top.

Raised the front of the trailer as high as we could get it with blocks on the floor jack.

Slid a beam made of 4 - 2x6 x 12' under the front of the boat and supported the ends with boat jacks.

Then we rolled the trailer out from under the boat.

Supported the front with another stack of cement blocks in the center right in front of the keel and lowered the jacks.

At this point we used the two jacks on either side in front to help balance and stabilize the boat from side to side movement.

We are imagining it will all go back together the same way.

JOhn ><>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If anyone is going to try this method you should use "solid" blocks not house foundation blocks. They are very brittle.

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 10:24:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Ed Cassidy
 I hope this is taken the right way, but the cement blocks are a heartbeat away from disaster. they are so fragile that one tiny bump could cause them to collapse. Next time you have a spare block, tap it lightly with a hammer. It looks like you took some precautions to stack them doubled and to put wood blocks on top but they are just not designed to handle the weight like that. Please put some wood cribbing under the boat before you start re-installing the keel.
Thanks,
Ed
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

At my marina, all the boat stands are chained together across the centerline. 5 stands are used for a 25 foot boat, in addition to one 12 x 12 x 24 wood block under the keel. I think you should at a minimum add boat stands to the port and starboard aft quarters, chain them together, and take some of the weight off the cement blocks.

Better yet would be to replace the cement blocks with other stronger supports, in addition to adding at least 2 more boat stands.

The setup is very creative, but doesn't look too safe.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 20:12:34

One of th eguys at our marina was talking about how he did what you are contemplating in his back yard to move a boat from trailer to cradle, and I thought his setup was pretty slick. Here was what he did with a minimum budget.

He borrowed a bunch of mason's scaffolding. According to this guy, the scaffolding used by a mason is of stronger steel to carry loads of brick.

The scaffolding was set up to form a cage around his boat, one big rectangle.

Diagonals were put in on the ends to prevent the staging from going unstable.

2X4's were set across the staging and notches cut in them to lock them in place. Now the staging was rigid on three axis.

4 trailer winches were bolted to the scaffolding, and straps run under the boat.

the winches were gradually tensioned, lifting the boat off the cradle.

once the boat was inches off the cradle, the cradle was folded down and removed and the trailer rolled in to place under the staging.

Boat lowered, staging returned.

This guy's brother is a mason who supplied the scaffolding, and he already had a couple winches on hand so all he had to pay for was the other winches and the lift straps. Sounded slicker 'n seal snot in an iceflow the way he described it. Now I wanna go try it on my boat.

Edited by - Prospector on 10/25/2010 20:13:09

Michael Meyering
1st Mate

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USA
52 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2010 : 20:36:29

Prospector-
Thanks for posting. That sounds ideal.

Edited by - on

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