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I saw a post a while back that gave some guidance on a few products that could be used to a) convert rust to a hardened material and b) a protective coating to apply once the rust is converted. Unfortunately I cannot find this post so am hoping someone can re-post those products or point me to that previous post. Also, other than purchasing online, where can those products be purchased?
I've used Rustoleum's "Rust Reformer"--a milky fluid that turns iron, steel, or rust black and sort of primes it. I wouldn't go so far as to say it turns rust back into iron or steel--it basically stops it. What you put on top of that depends on the conditions--I'd use some sort of goop on keel bolts--maybe roofing cement or similar.
I assume you're talking about a pre-'83 fin keel C-25... (?) That's about when Catalina changed from the iron to the lead keel, and along with that from mild steel to stainless bolts and nuts. You can't "replace" them--they're permanent, and the nuts are probably frozen to them, with little reusable thread. But if you're concerned about their integrity, you can "sister" some new keel bolts by drilling and tapping the cast iron--or you can have it done. Several threads have discussed this process and what it takes. Catalina Direct sells a kit that includes a very long drill bit and tap.
It's an 81' and we have considered sistering in some additional bolts as well. However, I'm not sure that I'm ready to take on that endeavor just yet as from everything I've read it's definitely more involved than simply drilling/threading new holes. It's definitely on the "to-do" list but not just yet. They appear to be in relatively decent shape from a support standpoint. But, they do have corrosion that I would like to stop ASAP to get some more life out of them.
As stated above, Rustoleum's "Rust Reformer" stops the rust.
I used it a few weeks ago when I had a new crossmember welded into my galvanized trailer. The crossmember was not galvanized. Sanded it down to clean metal, put the rust reformer on, and parked the trailer.
I checked on it today after it's been sitting in the weather (including rain) for 3 or 4 weeks. Not a spot of rust on it. I just need to finish up and paint it gray.
I have an '81 and have put rust converter on bolts a couple of times. They have some rust as earlier owner probably did not treat bolts. Is there any guidelines on how to know if need to sister new bolts? Terry
There are plenty discussions on the keel bolt issues. I did them this summer, and after some aggravation things went well. Like was advised elsewhere, get a cheap drill (harbor freight), good cutting oil etc. I found that the drill bit that CD sold was cheap and not up to the task; so I bought some better quality drills (an additional $100+ investment, but well worth the trouble). My main discovery was to drill a pilot hole first with my regular cordless drill. But having said all that sistering in new keel bolts is absolutely doable.
I used Hammerite on my keel bolts last spring. The page I linked to below has a video on using the product. I used white so that I can more easily tell if rust starts to show up again. The paint goes no pretty thick and I put several coats on to really encapsulate the nuts and bolts. It held up well this season. I'd recommend it over a thinner spray just because you can load up a brush and smear it onto the bolt. I've got a 1980 fin dinette model and I had to go through contortions to get all of the bolts covered. I don't think I would have been able to get to them with a spray can. For the far bolt I actually used a gloved hand dipped in paint and just coated the bold with my fingers. There was no way to reach the back side with a brush (or a can).
Jan, thank for the input. Wonder if you couldn't buy the components for job at less that the $290 that Catalina direct charges? Especially if you need a better quality drill bit anyway? Their picture doesn't show bolts, I would assume they are included. Not sure what size they recommend, 5/8? or perhaps metric 12 or 14mm? Terry
Terry, CD sends you a steel threaded rod that you cut to the length and makes the bolts. I had no issue with them. I liked the tap that CD sent that worked real well. My only complaint was the drill bits. I just bought smaller bits at Lowes. I bought the longest they sell and pre-drilled the holes with thos first. The issue was access because the Lowes bits were short and you need to get the drill into the bilge to drill deep enough. I'll check at home over the holiday weekend and will past what I did. All said and done, I put 6 new bolts in over three weekends of drilling, tapping, etc.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by treuland</i> <br />...Wonder if you couldn't buy the components for job at less that the $290 that Catalina direct charges? Especially if you need a better quality drill bit anyway?...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Talk to them--they generally will customize their "kits" to your needs--they aren't prepackaged and sealed. I bought a halyard-to-cockpit "kit" from them that was very specific to what I wanted. You do want the threaded rod instead of bolts so you can first screw the rod into the hole as far as possible, and then tighten a nut and washer down against the bottom of the keel stub.
Jack, Thanks for the speed modification hint. If I don't fix the bolts, my keel may just fall off, hope you guys would come rescue us! Looks now like I won't get around to adding new bolts now until March or so. Maybe see you in Jan.? Thanks to all for the input on the bolts/kits etc. Wonder how much NSAID to use for the project. Terry
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.