Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I need to replace the old furling line on our CDI furler. I've decided to go one size smaller (3/8th inch) instead of the 1/4 inch that's currently on the boat. However, I don't know how much line I need to order. My boat is some distance away from home. Does anyone know how much line I need to order? Thanks in advance for your help.
What line are you going to use? I have been thinking of downsizing or stripping the core from the last 8 - 10 feet of new line so I can have a few extra wraps to compensate for tight and loose wraps and the subsequent difficulty in unwrapping the last couple of turns because the drum is full and binding. I am having trouble choosing a double braid that is fairly stiff when new but can easily be de-cored and a smaller, softer single braid.
First, I meant to type 3/16 not 3/8 Should have read it before I pushed the "Send" button.
And, second, I haven't decided on which line yet. The reason I'm downsizing is for the exact reason Dave5041 has mentioned. The drum is always too full and has a tendency to bind.
The length depends on your installation. I can think of several logical places to place the cleat and each would require a different length line. 30' is more than enough for any single line installation so buy that and cut to fit. I like your idea of going down a size, make sure your cleat is appropriate.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />The length depends on your installation. I can think of several logical places to place the cleat and each would require a different length line. 30' is more than enough for any single line installation so buy that and cut to fit. I like your idea of going down a size, make sure your cleat is appropriate. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ahhhh, Frank. Wouldn't 30' only leave approxinately 5' of line outside the drum after furling the foresail? My Harken manual recommends 55'.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />The length depends on your installation. I can think of several logical places to place the cleat and each would require a different length line. 30' is more than enough for any single line installation so buy that and cut to fit. I like your idea of going down a size, make sure your cleat is appropriate. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ahhhh, Frank. Wouldn't 30' only leave approxinately 5' of line outside the drum after furling the foresail? My Harken manual recommends 55'. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
When installing the furling line, I bend on the headsail then furl it in so I have three or so wraps of the genoa sheets around the furled sail. I then put a couple/three starter wraps on the drum. This way I have the minimum amount of line on the drum which lessens the problems of overfilling.
Also, to lessen furling line/drum issues, with a gloved hand, I put a small amount of tension on the furling line as the sail unfurls. This allows the line to spool nicer on the drum which lessens the probability of bunching up and it allows a more controlled unfurl. A proper lead angle is important too.
I've got a question. I'm just learning on my furler, went out Sat and when I rolled it up there wasn't enough furling line to rap the jib sheets around several times (which I've been told is best). How to I correct this? Thanks
This will happen for a few reasons. If you roll it up on a strong wind day the sail will roll up tighter and it will take extra turns to pull in the sail thus leaving you without enough line to rap the sail. Or you don't have enough raps on the drum to start with. When the sail is rolled up you should have 3-4 turns on the drum. Also if you were sailing with the sail partially furled and then rolled it up you will run out of line because the partially rolled sail got pulled very tight and it will take more turns than normal to fully roll it up. Try unfurling the sail fully then roll it up in this case.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Captain Max</i> <br />I've got a question. I'm just learning on my furler, went out Sat and when I rolled it up there wasn't enough furling line to rap the jib sheets around several times (which I've been told is best). How to I correct this? Thanks <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Take your jib sheets forward, wrap them around the furled sail until you have the number of wraps you want, then lead the sheets back aft. If you want a few extra wraps on the drum, go around the sail a couple of more times.
All good information from Don, but it is sometimes difficult while singlehanding to maintain even tension on the furling line, even with the recommended ratchet block, while holding to the breeze and hauling the appropriate sheet. My drum will hold one extra layer, 7-8 turns, of perfectly wrapped line, so de-coring or reducing line diameter would allow a reserve for the normal less than perfectly parallel wraps and variations in tension. It is currently manageable, but unfurling and re-furling at the dock after a long day doesn't add anything to the joy of sailing.
Thanks guys, I was single sailing and having trouble coordinating the jib sheet, furling line, and tiller at the same time, not being used to the furler jib. I used to think a furler wasn't as manly as hanking on the jib, but I've got to admit they really are nice!
I'm a singlehanded sailor myself. I usually come head to wind to set the main then fall off (easing the mainsheet accordingly) so the wind is abeam before deploying the furled jib. This way I don't have to haul in the jib sheet the whole way to unfurl the sail, just a couple of pulls on the sheet to get it started then let the wind do the rest. Once the furling line has run through my hand, I trim the jib sheet for my intended course.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Captain Max</i> <br />...I used to think a furler wasn't as manly as hanking on the jib, but I've got to admit they really are nice!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">For sure! To add to Don's suggestions, when furling the sail, I would do it with the sail filled and under way (rather than luffing up as you would with a hank-on)--generally on a beam reach so I could first ease the sheet and then haul the furling line That gives you a tighter, smoother roll that is more secure if heavy wind comes up at the dock or mooring. On a blustery day or for a short sail to nowhere, we (or I) would often leave the main covered and just pull out the genny--quick, simple, and plenty of drive (although the dead-neutral helm felt a little strange).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Captain Max</i> <br />. . . I used to think a furler wasn't as manly as hanking on the jib, but I've got to admit they really are nice! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">We were dead set against a furler - we weren't going to sacrifice pointing ability or sail shape. Then we inherited a furler with our current boat so we were sort-of stuck with it first time out. After furling the foresail in about ten seconds without leaving the cockpit or having to stow it below - the minimal loss of performance is more than offset by convenience, way more.
Don, that's basically what I do, or just sail on the genoa, and it usually works smoothly. I seem to have spent more time than usual in 15 kt & 2-3 feet this year, and it tends to be more challenging to control everything then and avoiding flogging. A couple of slack turns at any point and the drum is likely to bind on the last couple of turns. The recommended line diameter is 5/16" (just beyond the range of the 1/4" recommendation) for my unit and genoa, and I just don't think that is necessary or practical. I really think de-coring 1/4" would be fine, and 3/16 in higher strength line would be adequate and offer plenty of reserve but be harder to handle.
Not knowing about furlers, I made the mental note that the furling line seemed kind of small on my boat. (not sure what size it is off hand) Guess that's a good thing. Certainly, not messing with the mainsail cover, etc looks like the way to go on single handed sails.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />The recommended line diameter is 5/16" (just beyond the range of the 1/4" recommendation) for my unit and genoa, and I just don't think that is necessary or practical.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Agree. 5/16" seems rather big (it wouldn't fit in my drum). 1/4" is fine.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.