Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The teak and holly veneer on plywood installed by Catalina when my boat was built had started to delaminate. After much research I decided to purchase some teak and holly pattern ply from Boulter Plywood in Somerville MA. The wood (one 4x8) only cost about 170.00 which is a steel considering the real stuff would cost around a grand and the synthetic nuteak stuff costs around 500.00 and is a real pain in the you know what to install.
The origional sole came up surprisingly easy. It was simply screwed around the perimeter onto the existing fiberglass decking in the cabin. Once the screws came out the whole thing lifted out in one peice. The compression post must have been installed later so I did have to cut out a notch toward the bow end of the sole so that I could slide it up and out through the companionway.
The beauty of ply is that should I or a future owner wish to restore the boat back to a fiberglass floor the sole will come out quite easilly.
Using the old sole I was able to trace a pattern on my new ply wood. Very carefully and with much mind/blood preassure control, I used a hand held electric jigsaw to cut out the pattern. Next, grabbing the nearest weather window I could and taking off work to do so... I used natural teack cetol from sikkens to coat the front, sides, and back.
Nice! Mine needs a good cleaning and maybe a coat of something to protect it. It's been soaked near the stairs but I don't see any delamination, I'd hate to try to replace it. My bilge inspection panel no longer fits well, it's level but it seem the main section has bowed up just little and the panel rocks fore and aft. I don't know if it's because the boat has been on the trailer for over a year putting all the weight on the keel.
and the synthetic nuteak stuff costs around 500.00 and is a real pain in the you know what to install.
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Beautiful . . . You are correct about the $500 for nuteak - cost me about $1000 with adhesive, etc. to do both my cabin and cockpit sole, but the installation was not difficult at all.
Just make a pattern using kraft paper with a crayon, then glue the nuteak strips together with superglue (locktite professional), put ont top of pattern and cut with sharp knife, install with the flooring glue.
Steve, my bilge cover had teak stripping that needed to be adjusted and re-glued from time to time. You may be able to re-adjust yours without too much difficulty. Also, a previous owner had modified the table and reduced the size of the bilge cover to be about one foot long in order to accommodate the table stand.. I have made the bilge cover longer in order to access more of the bilge. I hope the thing will be stable. Had to purchase extra skinny blades to make the bilge cut because I wanted the gap to be as narrow as possible. I am now on my second coat of sikkens. I am hoping that the third and final layer will suitably reduce the gap. Most of my effort thus far has been about applying many layers of cetol. Since I do not have a workshop and it has been below 50 degrees lately, I have been doing all my work in the kitchen. Isn't my family lucky?
Will post more pictures once floor is installed- which may be a while since I have to replace my badly rusted steering cable.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.