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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Cracked tiller handle

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Dan Greer
1st Mate

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USA
36 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/11/2011 : 21:21:06

I accidentally sat on my tiller handle this weekend and cracked it along one of the laminations.

I'm thinking this is repairable with some glue and screws. You guys have any other suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

Dan Greer
1989 C-25 SR WK
Phoenix, AZ

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2011 : 22:59:26

Dan, that looks pretty repairable, and if the delamination is clean enough you can probably fix it with epoxy alone. However, I'd make sure you're not wasting your time. My tiller (looks like the exact same one) dry rotted, but looked perfectly fine. The Ash (the white wood) was in really bad shape, while the Mahogany (darker wood) was seemingly in great shape. I retired it and made a new one.

On yours I'd probe the wood inside the split to see if it's soft or spongy. If so, it's probably time for a new tiller, although there are epoxy products out there that can probably keep it going for a few years. CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy System) is one I've had good luck with. You'll want to firm up the wood fibers with something along these lines before you actually do the repair lamination.

If you think you can repair it, and it's not spongy, I'd use your favorite epoxy (West Sytems, MAS, System Three etc.), thickened with colloidal silica (West 406), or microfibers (West 403) for best laminating strength. As you can guess I use West System, but there are several good choices out there.

As far as bolts or screws go, I don't think I'd use either. The Gougeon Brothers (West System) make wooden boats with no fasteners at all, only epoxy bonded joints.

You'll need a bunch of clamps to clamp the joint back down. Make sure you don't clamp so hard you squeeze out all the epoxy and end up with a dry joint.

If you're in the PNW by chance I'm more than willing to help you make the repair (or determine the viability of a repair).

Edit, just saw your signature and you're in AZ. If you want to ask more questions, shoot me an email with your number & I'll give you a call.

Edited by - delliottg on 04/11/2011 23:00:43

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 05:48:59

Dan,

I'd just buy a new one then fix the broken tiller and keep it for an emergency spare. Although I've never purchased anything from PYacht before, they list a C25 tiller for $69.98.

http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+hl112F

You could also call the manufacturer, H&L Marine Woodworking, directly to order a tiller, but if memory serves me, and nothing has changed, it's a small operation and they don't accept credit cards.

H & L Marine Woodwork, Inc.
2965 E. Harcourt
Rancho Dominguez, CA 90221
Tel: (323) 636-1718
Fax: (323) 636-1720

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 05:55:10

What Don said - I have been nervous about not having a spare for a while, especially after a skilled skipper in our marina lost his tiller entering Little Current (the current wasn't so little that day) last summer. With the stresses on our tillers and rudders, this is really a good spot to think about redundancy.

Edited by - on

pfduffy
Captain

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USA
317 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 06:02:48

I did the exact same thing last year and did as Don suggested. To have a good emergency spare, you may want to invest in new tiller straps from CD. The 3 holes for the bolts are offset so they don't run through the same joint in the tiller lamination. That seemed like an improvement to me.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 09:33:56

Even though I'd attempt the repair, I did exactly what the other folks are recommending and got a spare tiller. Mine broke off in my hand while out sailing in a stiff February breeze. I tried to be casual with two non-sailing friends, but that's hard to do when you're holding 1/3 of the tiller in one hand, and it's not attached to the steering part.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 13:42:20

$70 is a pretty good price for a tiller. I've seen them priced in the $90's.

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2011 : 17:23:07

I'm thinking this is repairable with some glue and screws. You guys have any other suggestions?

Thanks for your help.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I did the same thing. A guy fell on it. Glued it and put a couple bolts through the top, counter sunk. Been fine for two seasons now. Bought a new tiller, need to stain it and install it.

Edited by - on

Dan Greer
1st Mate

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USA
36 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2011 : 00:52:24

Thanks very much for your suggestions, guys.

I probed the wood as suggested and found no softness or rot anywhere.

I glued up the crack with Titebond waterproof glue, rather than epoxy. I've had good experience with the product, and it's much easier to work with than epoxy.

The crack closed up nicely. I can barely tell where it was.

I do think I'll add some 1 3/4 stainless screws up from the underside of the tiller for additional strength along the cracked portion.

I've put 3 coats of MinWax Spar Varnish over the repaired area, and I'll continue to put a couple more coats over the entire tiller, but I'll be out of town for awhile and won't get back to it for a couple of weeks.

I'll post a finished photo to this thread when it's all done.

Thanks again for the help and advice.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9082 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2011 : 09:23:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dan Greer
 I do think I'll add some 1 3/4 stainless screws up from the underside of the tiller for additional strength along the cracked portion.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'd be suspicious the screws might tend to weaken the glued joint apart rather than holding it together. I'd thru-bolt it as Peter describes, with a thin bolt (or two) and some small washers.

Edited by - on

DanM
Captain

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USA
256 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 06:49:35

Same here, bought the new one, then epoxyed, re-varnished and vertically thrubolted the original with 3/4" ss flatwashers. I also drilled an offset bolthole through the plates, noting the weak design.
The repaired tiller has held up well for four years. (Bought a tiller cover, too).

The new one sits ready, probably will be a "gift" to the next owner.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5906 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 07:00:33

I thru-bolted mine with 1/4" SS bolts and flat washers (3), and used self-locking nuts. A tiller cover helps alot to preserve it. Also, when you varnish it, get some varnish inside all the bolt holes. Moisture gets inside the bolt holes and rots the wood from within, although it's a slow process.

Edited by - on

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