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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Lifting Objects with Main Halyard

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dacc
1st Mate

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USA
40 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/22/2011 : 23:46:25

I need to lift the 100lb outboard on my boat to put a new bracket on, and a few people have recommended using the main halyard. Does this sound reasonable? I guess I would create a sling with some line, and then clamp the line to the aft pulpit somehow so it doesn't slide around. Would this hurt anything?

Thanks!

"Windhorse" 1978 Catalina 25
Std Rig, Swing Keel, Pop Top

Edited by - on

TCurran
Admiral

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USA
588 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 05:07:31

I did this a few times on my Capri 22, I don't see it as a problem.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 07:59:41

Another option: If you are in or have access to a floating slip, back the boat into the slip, wrap a line or web strap around the motor head several times creating a sling, get someone young and strong (offer beer) to help you and lift it off the mount.

If you do use the main halyard, I suggest running a line through a block on the end of the boom (reefline cheek block?), put a bowline in it, and connect it to your main sheet. Attach the line to the motor and winch it up. Be sure to put a folded up towel or pad over the transom to protect it from scratches.

Edited by - dmpilc on 04/23/2011 08:02:39

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 09:40:12

Disconnect the mainsheet from the traveller and let the topping lift take the strain to the masthead.

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cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 11:33:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 Disconnect the mainsheet from the traveller and let the topping lift take the strain to the masthead.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hmmmmmm, before doing that you better have a strong topping lift! Often they ae pretty small line so the mains'l leech does not get frayed..
Chuck

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/23/2011 : 11:51:34

The main halyard will be taking most of the strain, I'd let off on the topping lift. The boom will be the fulcrum. If your topping lift is wire rope, like mine, you could attach a heavier block and line, say 5/16", to the wire rope part and use it as a secondary or safety line.

Edited by - on

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2011 : 09:11:28

There are a number of other components to consider besides the halyard. Fortunately, most of them should be capable of handling 100#. The forestay and the stem fitting will be subject to the opposing strain, as will the clutch or cleat at the other end of the halyard. Check them all before you start.

Then, you'll need to transfer the diagonally upward force from the halyard into a vertical force directly over the motor. If you don't the motor will be pulled against the bracket instead of off it. Our boom is too short to serve as a derrick out over the motor, so there are at least a couple of alternatives: a longer temporary boom (ie. a 4x4 of lumber) or an A-frame leaning out from the top of the transom. In either case, don't let the halyard simply pass over the end and hook directly to the motor sling; it will slip and the support will move out of position. Instead, install a stout eyebolt or screw-eye in the end of your temporary support structure, and just use the halyard to hold it in position. Hang a tackle (the mainsheet system or the vang) from the support to actually lift the motor. With either structure, secure it to cleats on both sides to keep it from swinging or tipping (it might be tempting to use the extended boom option to swing the motor out of the way, but the boat will tip somewhat and the entire system will want to swing farther than you intended!).

Although our vang or mainsheet systems might suffice, I use a 6:1 tackle consisting of a Ronstan RF1160 and RF51300 (both with M.W.L. ratings over 1000 kg) that I had put together for other purposes. There's a lot of friction loss with the small diameter sheaves in the blocks used on boats our size, so even a 6:1 does NOT mean it only takes 100/6 = 17# to lift a hundred pound motor - it takes a lot more.

The sling around the motor will actually be the most complicated part (I'm still playing with different versions for my new Tohatsu). Bear in mind that knots in rope will slip to a degree as they accept higher loads than you applied when you tied them. Be careful not to put loads on components that weren't designed for them (ie. plastic housings, projections, hoses or cables). Many motors have a carrying handle in front that's ideal for lifting, but getting good support elsewhere around the motor will be tricky. I fabricated a bracket to hook under the rear of the motor base rather than trusting the hand-hold that's meant just for tipping the motor forward.

Once you have everything in place, cinch it all up and test it before undoing the motor completely. With the clamping screws loosened, and the rig having raised the motor just slightly, put some of your body weight on it to over-stress the rig before lifting the motor clear of the bracket. That way, if something fails, the motor just falls back onto the bracket.

I didn't mean to be so long-winded, but what you're proposing is inherently dangerous. If it's done right, it'll work fine, but be VERY CAREFUL: the results, if done wrong, would be costly. On the other hand, the large wooden lifting frame I built for the tailgate of my pick-up truck has been serving well. I've backed-up to my boat on its trailer and removed/replaced the motor several times, but I'm always more cautious when the boat's in the water - I haven't worked-out yet how to back the truck up to it yet [ :) ].

Doing major work on a boat always requires some improvisation. If you think things through first you can (usually) work out (most of) the potential problems in advance. Asking for advice, as you did here, is always a good first step.

Good luck! Let us know what you end up working out and how it goes; I'm sure others here could benefit from your experience.

- Lee

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2011 : 09:22:33

I have used the mainsheet to lift and mount the motor several (I have a wire topping lift with a 1/4" vectran pigtail.), and very modest pressure keeps the motor off the transom. While you want to be careful, it would take a pretty marginal system to have trouble lifting a 100 pound motor. I use the same system to lift and lower myself into a kayak.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2011 : 08:22:50

Disconnect main halyard and reattach at topping lift and cleat off. Most main halyards are larger line and can handle heavier loads. Disconnect the vang at the mast and take it to the Starboard rail. If you have a cunninham take that to the port rail, otherwise tie a line to the boom and rail. (swing support)

Disconnect main sheet from Traveller and attach to engine, be sure to go outside/over rail. Use the traveller to take the load off you but still do a bit of the lifting yourself.

Be sure to tether whomever is leaning over the rail to the boat and also be sure you have a stopper knot in your mainsheet. If you have an additional tether, put it on the motor over the rail to the boat.

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2011 : 09:23:39

If it were me, I'd position the boat so the motor/bracket was near the dock, then have a friend help hoist it off. I can actually lift my 8hp Tohatsu off by myself. I'm fairly young though. If you can't, perhaps it would be easier to bribe a young buck nearby with a beer. Hell, I'd do it for you for a cold Shiner Bock. ;)

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2011 : 12:59:03

I've removed and re-installed my Honda 9.9hp outboard a number of times now, and first I used a 9' aluminum pole I happened to have (old sunfish mast). I would set this up as a derrick (similar to an A-frame over the stern) with a seat cushion against the bulkhead out to a position directly over the motor. I held the top stable port and starboard with lines to the cleats on the coaming. The top was held up with the main halyard connected along to the mainsheet and pulleys. Below the pole was the boom vang and its pulleys.

I could lift the 105 lb motor in a sling with this setup and swing it easily to the dock. I lifted the weight using mostly the boom vang's pulleys, but also lifting the pole and mainsheet to some extent.

Pulling a >100 lb motor up towards the stern rail and the masthead, instead of vertically, seems dangerous to me, and not what I want. That's why I made the temporary davit with my aluminum pole.

Recently, however, I've developed a MUCH simpler system. I wait until a very high tide, such as with a full moon. I back the boat up the corner of the slip, loosen the motor brackets, and simply lift the motor 6" to a foot to get it on the dock. No set up time or effort! No need to take apart the system components afterwards.

I have fixed docks, and this takes advantage of that situation. On Easter I walked over to the stern of the boat with the serviced outboard, lowered it a high tide onto the motor bracket and within 10 minutes it was installed and hooked up.

I guess my work with firewood all winter lets me get away with this simple procedure without pulling my back out, since in the late Fall the outboard seems a lot heavier!

If yuu have floating docks, there is no way to do this, however.

Whatever floats your boat!

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2011 : 14:40:46

It can be done at floating docks. I changed out our motor about 3 years ago this way. If I back my boat into the slip, the motor head is right there by the dock. I have a web strap motor handle gizmo that cinches around the motor head. As you said, all it takes is lifting a few inches, lean back a little and slide the shaft up onto the dock. I do tie off a safety line to the dock's cleat just in case. This is best done with help, especially getting it back on the boat, because you'll need someone to keep the dock line tight. My biggest problem doing this is the alternator cable. The access hole in my transom is very small. I'll be doing this real soon, as the low idle jet in the motor is clogged and I need to pull the carb.

Edited by - dmpilc on 04/25/2011 14:49:04

NCBrew
Captain

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USA
338 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2011 : 07:11:27

Wow! I did not know this was a major problem. I backed my Cat 25 up to my bulkhead, lifted the bracket up to the "Up" position, disconnected the fuel and battery connections, loosened the screws holding the motor on to the bracket, grabbed it with 2 hands and lifted it up onto my yard making sure to keep it in an upright position and placed it on a sawhorse. It is a 9.9 HP Nissan.

NCBrew

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Frank Law
Navigator

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USA
159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2011 : 09:09:23

Another use for the halyard ,, recently saw a guy hoist up a extension ladder to work on upper mast head I think this could work , by tieing lines to ladder bottom to stanchions and maybe a halyard to youself .
Frank Law

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dacc
1st Mate

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USA
40 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2011 : 21:07:43

Thought I'd follow up to document what I did today. We decided to carefully back the boat up to the dock and lift the motor off of the bracket. I had my brother to help, both of us spindly armed computer geeks, but a burly liveaboard happened upon us a plucked it right off.

As for the main halyard, I did go up the mast today for the first time using a climbing harness. The winch was lifting maybe 25% of my body weight. I'd scooch and my brother would winch. Worked really well and the rigging didn't feel stressed at all.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3460 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2011 : 04:05:06

Same as NC Brew, the few times I have taken my outboard off I just lifted it off the bracket while the boat was in the floating finger slip and my transom/outboard was backed up close to the main dock. Now come to think of it, not sure if it was my hands I lifted it up with or one of the marina workers hands ! Ha Ha ! I think I had done it one time and had a marina worker assist me one time. Just ask one of the marina guys to help and afterwards offer him $5- $10 for his assistance. It's a done deal with no fuss.

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