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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I want to add a topping lift to my cat 25 tall rig. Does anyone know the dimensions of the cable and line needed? I also need to know the types of blocks to get. Any help is greatly appreciated.
The line does not need to be heavier than 1/4". Unless you take down your mast at least annually, I suggest using 1/8" wire rope for most of the length of the topping lift, about 26'-27', with a thimble on each end. Attach it to the masthead on the same pin as the backstay and add a single micro block to the lower end. If not already there, attach a single micro swivel block using a D shackle to the end of the boom using the last hole on the end fitting. Using good quality 3/16" or 1/4" line, run it through the boom-end block, up to the block on the wire rope, back down to the D shackle and tie it off with a bowline. Run the other end of the line forward along the boom to a cleat of your choice (I use a lance cleat) and cut the line leaving a tail of about 2-3 ft. (or continue the line on to the mast and down if you want to bring it back to the cockpit. The idea is this: the line runs from the boom-end up to the block on the wire rope part of the topping lift, back down through a block at the boom-end and forward to a cleat, either on the boom or back to the cockpit. If you already have an available cheek block on the boom, you could use it. With the wire rope, there is less line to replace as it ages in the weather.
How is your outhaul set up? I use a single block with becket at the clew and a double block at the boom end attached to the forward hole on the boom-end fitting. The line starts at the becket, goes through the blocks and forward to a cleat on the boom. If you do that, you could change out the double block for a triple block using the 3rd sheave for the topping lift.
I did something like David describes, although the upper part was dacron double-braid. (I don't know the length, and had a standard rig anyway.) To make it adjustable, I put a small swivel block on the boom (aft hole) and at the end of the upper part of the topping lift, a Harken Micro block--I think it was #245 below, which has a V grove that acts as a built-in jam cleat.
I ran a 3/16" line down from the little shackle to the swivel block, back up to the lower sheave of the micro, and then out through the V. I put a stopper knot at the length that barely slackened the lift with the sail hoisted, and with a quick pull I could lift the boom higher for whatever reason. (I copied this from ex-Commodore Jim Baumgart.)
If you want to check the measure for a custom boom topping lift here is a thought: attach your main halyard shackle to the end of the boom and run it to to were you want the bitter end to be ( mast foot, cabin top, cockpit cleat or stopper ) make a mark on the line and measure it.
If you don´t know your mast hight, attach a tape measure to the halyard shackle and pul it up, or attach a piece of light tread line and pull it up and measure it.
This way you will know how much rope you will need for your boom topping lift line.
My topping lift, which is led to the cockpit, is exactly as David described. If you have or plan to have a bimini, you'll want to lead the topping lift, and outhaul, to the cockpit as this makes adjustments easier.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JeanAndre</i> <br />If you don´t know your mast height,...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The TR mast is 30' from the cabin top, so Jean's method is a good one. If you want to make it adjustable, you can do what I described (making the top section about 2' shorter), or lead it across the boom, down to the cabin top, and back to the cockpit. I found the end-boom adjustment to be more than satisfactory. I only used the adjustment at anchor or at the dock, particularly to open or collapse our bimini.
(I also disagree with the claim that the topping lift should be used to make the mainsail fuller in light wind--I maintain that it bends the sail on the wrong axis, directing the flow up rather than aft--the outhaul provides the correct adjustment, even better with a shelf-foot or loose-footed main. That's been a point of debate here, and I'm more of a physicist than a racer, so I could very well be wrong. )
The block I used on the end of the wire is like #234 in the photo above. If you have changed from wire/rope to all rope halyards, the wire part is great for the topping lift. That's what I used. Actually, I used the wire pieces from our C-22 for both boats, main to the C-22 and jib to the C-25. Also, I shortened the C-22 one about 18" to make a pennant for the bottom of our C-25 jib to raise it up off the deck so I could see under it when single handing. Works well. You'll see in my sig photo that the jib is up almost to the top of the bow pulpit.
P.S. To measure the length if you use wire, attach a line to your main halyard and raise the halyard to the top. Stretch the attached line and mark it about 2' above the boom end. That's where you'll want the micro block.
Thanks for all the help people. I was away yesterday(wife!)and couldnt get my iphone to log on to comment. I was able to read and take notes though, and I'll be starting this project as soon as I can...or anytime my wife will let me. I like Davids idea and will probably do something like that until I get creative (usually after a beer or two). If I don't screw it up I'll take a picture and post it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.