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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 250 Specific Forum
 Interior Wood Restoring		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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philagnes2003
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts
Initially Posted - 04/27/2011 :  04:33:33  Show Profile
Hello, What do you guys use to restore the interior wood, Head door, around the sink and the interior trim. It looks a little dull.

Thanks Phil
Mac's Bounty
2003 C250 WK #679
Orient Harbor, NY

If you think you can, or think you can't, pretty soon you find out your are right! H.F.
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willy
Captain

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USA
422 Posts
Response Posted - 04/27/2011 :  06:33:29  Show Profile
Phil,
I actually "paint" teak oil onto it with a cheapo chinese bristle brush and let it soak in for a couple of days before rubbing it down with an old tee shirt. DO NOT OIL THE STEPS. (Just ask my chiropractor) If its <i>really</i> dirty you can use Murphys soap first.
Willy
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Dkn420
Captain

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USA
298 Posts
Response Posted - 04/27/2011 :  13:21:25  Show Profile
Sea-Fin and follow the instructions and the the teak is as smooth as a baby's...well you know. West Marine usually carriers it or you can order from other vendors.

Dan #727
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts
Response Posted - 04/27/2011 :  14:07:57  Show Profile
I have found Howard's Restor-a-Finish absolutely the best. Just wipe on and let dry. Has a nice smell too! Available at hardware stores.
And you can do the steps with it!
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9082 Posts
Response Posted - 04/27/2011 :  18:58:22  Show Profile
Howard's has gotten a lot of fans here... I think most have chosen the Golden Oak--it won't darken the teak too much. If you want a more "classic" look, you could try the Cherry or even the Mahogany--I'd test it somewhere out of sight.
Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/27/2011 18:59:17
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ruachwrights
Captain

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USA
258 Posts
Response Posted - 04/28/2011 :  07:27:25  Show Profile  Visit ruachwrights's Homepage
There was a good article in Sail a few months ago about refinishing teak. Teak oil has to be redone constantly. They were advocates of Catptains Spar Varnish. After good results with using Teak colored Sikkens Cetol Marine (satin finish) on my teak veneer teak and holly sole, I'm currently contemplating using the stuff on the head wall and trim strips. The head wall seems to be forever getting mold spots during winter storage and get bleached out in the summer due to UV exposure. Cetol will last longer and look brighter-and brings out an intense glow.

Vern Wright
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philagnes2003
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2011 :  02:50:01  Show Profile
Howard's Restor-a-Finish worked great and my wife loved the smell, instantly the boat smelled and looked great.

Thanks for the tip
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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3468 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2011 :  03:17:30  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage
I also used Howard's Restore-A-Finish and also their other product, Howard's Feed-N-Wax. These are very easy to apply. They are not a coating. They are a finish that is just wiped on and you let it dry, maybe wipe off any excess. It also keeps the wood trim looking fine over a number of years. I recall only using the product once in the 4 1/2 years I have owned my boat. The finish on my interior trim was never really bad to start with but the Howard's products brought out a richer tone. The Feed-N-Wax helps lock in the finish but others have used just the Restore-A-Finish product alone and also have had lasting results.

I originally bought the Howard products in a paint store called Color Wheel but I believe I also have seen their products more recently in either Lowes or Home Depot.
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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2011 :  05:32:47  Show Profile
I've had a year-long project to gradually improve the interior teak. It keeps getting delayed by more important projects. But every month or so I can devote and hour or so to it.

My wood had acquired a lot of dark waxy residue from previous owners' excessove application of what I suspect were linseed oil products. When subjected to UV exposure and humidity, the products broke down, discolored into an ugly brown-grey tone, and got sticky.

I started the restoration by using the CitruStrip stuff from Home Depot, followed by wiping down with mineral spirits and some selective bleaching with diluted Chlorox. I'm still undecided how to finish it permanently, but I'm buying time with occasional application of some leftover Minwax natural color to just keep it from drying out (which I suspect also has some linseed oil, so I need to use it sparingly). Based on what you guys are posting I'll look into Howard's. In the past (~20 years ago) I used Minwax Spar Polyurethane to finish a bay window that held up really great in direct sunlight, so if I want to clearcoat the wood and be done with it I will consider that (as long as they haven't ruined the formula due to VOC issues). But I'm hesitant because I know once I put that on I'll never get it off. So I may just continue with seasonal oiling and do a periodic solvent wipe to minimize buildup.
Edited by - TakeFive on 05/24/2011 05:33:54
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willy
Captain

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USA
422 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2011 :  17:57:05  Show Profile
Hey Vern!
I have found that buying three of the large - $10.00 size dehumidifier buckets at WalMart and putting them in the boat before shrink wrap has eliminated the "winter mildew" problem.
Willy
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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts
Response Posted - 05/24/2011 :  20:15:09  Show Profile
I use the DampRid canisters in the winter, and have a Peltier dehumidifier that runs off of shore power during the season. No mildew at all. And the discolored waxy residue did not appear to be mildew - the discoloration only occurred near the companionway where it gets UV exposure.
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Skipper Paul
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts
Response Posted - 05/25/2011 :  08:19:25  Show Profile
Howards "restore a finish" The only way to go!! Makes the crew happy, no sanding, looks great and you get to spend more time sailing.
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