Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello New Member here... My 1980 Cal25 is all original gelcoat on the deck and needs a total re-do. Everything is is removed and 75% of the sanding is done. I will post pic's eventually to help explain my questions to you except this one. I have already decided to sand all areas with large ridges down 1/16 to start from scratch on non-skid. Question #1 For the areas with small ridges in the cockpit seats, there is a very small margin of error in not over-doing the sanding. The goal being enough roughness to apply the primer (two-part), but leaving the ridges profiled as like-new. I have a first safe pass with a 3M grinding (bristle-type)pad (very useful tool btw). But in spots where I needed to remove tough old sealant, the small ridges get removed. Is Kiwigrip the ideal solution with no sanding at all or some combination? I appreciate your help in dealing with this tough part of the project! Thanks in advance, Craig
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by SoCalSailor</i> <br />Hello New Member here... My 1980 Cal25 is all original gelcoat on the deck and needs a total re-do. I have already decided to sand all areas with large ridges down 1/16 to start from scratch on non-skid. Question #1 For the areas with small ridges in the cockpit seats, there is a very small margin of error in not over-doing the sanding. The goal being enough roughness to apply the primer (two-part), but leaving the ridges profiled as like-new. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Craig! I am looking at having to do the same thing on my boat. The gel coat, especially on the antiskid areas) has areas that are simply all worn away. I don't like the look/feel of most of the antiskid deck paints, so I wanted to try to keep the same "pattern" that is molded into the antiskid, but I also undertsnad the importance of having the surface roughed up enough for the new pain to stick well... So I am really interested in what all you find out on how to deal with your anti skid.
I am thinking I will use Interlux "Perfection" for the paint, especially for the non-antiskid areas. There is a large trawler a few slips down from me that the skipper is doing it himself, and he is only using a urathane roller and not even bothering to "tip" it afterwards. What he has finished so far looks like new gelcoat! No brush or roller marks!!!
Has anybody looked into using one of the non-skip pattern molds like [url="http://www.gibcoflexmold.com/products.asp"]this[/url]? Maybe you could put down a layer of resin and put the mold on it, or maybe it would even work on the paint--I don't know... I'm guessing you wax the mold before laying it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tomas Kruska</i> <br />Chuck, wow, you have numero uno? I would not paint this peace of art :)
Post some pictures please <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Hi Tomas! Thanks for the kind words!
We have sailed her HARD for 35 years, and it shows. Still sails great, but its time to take the time to improve things cosmetically!
I will find a place to post pics so I can link to them...
http://www.gibcoflexmold.com/products.asp" ]this" target="_blank">< blockquote id=" quote" > < font size=" 1" face=" Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=" quote" > quote:< hr height=" 1" noshade id=" quote" > < i> Originally posted by Stinkpotter< /i> br / < br /> Has anybody looked into using one of the non-skip pattern molds like [url=" http://www.gibcoflexmold.com/products.asp" ]this? Maybe you could put down a layer of resin and put the mold on it, or maybe it would even work on the paint--I don't know... I'm guessing you wax the mold before laying it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Dave, Thanks very much for this lead on Flexmold, this may be the professional way to get non-skid on to a WOW result. I called them today and they said to find this how-to video using their molds: http://www.masepoxies.com//Videos/NON_SKID_REPAIR.html
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.