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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Batterie, Chargers: recharging
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Randolph G. Wilson
1st Mate

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USA
64 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/10/2002 :  11:14:50  Show Profile
I have two 12v batteries mounted under the stbd settee. My boat has a 4-position selector switch - off, 1,2,Both. I presume this means that I can select battery 1, battery 2, or both. I would like some help and advice regarding charging the batteries. I recently purchased a charger from Walmart that claims to be automatic, in that it shuts itself off when the battery/batteries are recharged. My questions: 1. Should the batteries by removed from the boat for recharging (as recommended by the charger mfgr)? 2. If not, can both be charged at the same time? 3. If so, how should the selector switch be positioned? I am a little nervous about leaving the charger on and trusting the auto feature of the charger, considering the hydrogen hazard. I would certainly appreciate help and recommendations from the experience of others. Thanks in advance.


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matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  12:05:52  Show Profile
I don't know what automatic means for your portable charger, but I'd recommend it be a 3 stage charger if you're going to leave it unattended. I just recently finished installing a permanent one (TrueCharge 10 for dual batteries) in my boat. Works great. It's been on for over a month now, my batteries stay fully charged and water levels have not diminished. With my old portable charger, I used to have to charge one battery at a time and couldn't leave it unattended for more than a few hours.

I also have a 4 way battery switch, but my charger is connected directly to the battery, not through the switch. This is the recommended method as it allows you to "turn off" your boat and still charge your batteries while your away.

John Matsche 1985 Cat-25 TR/FK


Edited by - matsche on 12/11/2002 12:14:05

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2984 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  12:56:27  Show Profile
These chargers according to instructions... do need a direct connect. Very much voltage drop between the battery and charger may cause the auto feature to not sense a full charge and not shut down.



<img src="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/images/helming.jpg" border=0>
Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
R&R N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

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jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  13:53:58  Show Profile
Randolph,

I support your caution about leaving the charger on all the time. I will relate an event that caused me to only have the charger on while I am at the boat, doing chores, cleaning and stuff. This seems to be plenty of charge time (plus the engine run time) to keep my two batteries topped off.

Hey Jude has (had) a marine-grade charger, hard wired according to manufacturer's instructions. A couple of years ago, while I was still at a marina that allowed live-aboards, a large houseboat affair docked across the finger from me and plugged in. There were several boats on my side of the finger, including a 38ft. cabin cruiser. The houseboat thingy was really a floating wreck, and I noticed that the guy had run two electrical connectors to the power box next to where I plug in.

When I came back to 'Jude the next weekend I noticed a strong, unpleasant smell as I approached. When I popped the splashboards the reek of chemical mixed with charred wire was overpowering. After raising the top, I began checking. First, both batteries were cooked dry. Next, the charger was also cooked. The breaker on the dockbox was thrown.

At first, I figured the charger had died and cooked the batteries. I mentioned my disgust to the guy two slips down. He started to relate electrical problems that he had suddenly had. Then the gal that owned the 38footer walked by and heard us talking. She said all her electronics and electrical were fried. After some discussion we realized that the problem all happened in the week since the wreck tied up. We reported this to the marina office. They came down and ran a polarity check on the wreck's shore power lines and said the guy had one wired up backwards.

I'm no electrician, the damned stuff is like magic. But we concluded that he was responsible for the problem. The marina would not accept any responsibility, their contract absolves them, apparently. They did disconnect the guy's wires.

We dock neighbors wrote the wreck owner a letter demanding that he make restitution. The next weekend he disappeared.

Maybe I got off easy, just replacing the charger and batteries, with some discoloration on 'Jude's wiring. Did you know that hydrogen sulfide turns wires brown, all the wires? You have to scrape a little to get to see what color they are, fun...!

The gal at the end of the dock had more than 10 grand in damage.

The guy closest to me had to have all his zincs replaced, and new ends installed on his shorepower lines.

So, now I charge only while I'm there.

Any ideas, folks, self-defense for electrical shorepower hook-ups?

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk #2958
Half Moon Bay, CA


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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  14:04:55  Show Profile
hey i just have a quick question.. i have a 3 stage battery charger and wanted to know if i could operate the cabin lights while the battery is charging.. i only have one battery.

i wanna install a cigarette lighter and voltmeter and probably will have ?'s about those two pupies. My battery charger is connected directly to the AC main switch so that when i am docked and turn AC main on it is charging the battery automatically. I am paranoid and have never tried turing the "main dc" switch with the battery charging.

thanks
marco


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matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  18:10:37  Show Profile
marco:

I've never had a problem running my DC while charging the batteries. I don't know of any reason not to. I do, however, run the charger through a separate AC breaker, so I could turn it off and still run AC/DC at the slip. The manufacturer recommended the 15amp breaker.

John Matsche 1985 Cat-25 TR/FK


Edited by - matsche on 12/11/2002 12:13:28

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  18:35:02  Show Profile
john,
thanks for the advice.. i am gonna try it out..
I know that it's not a good idea to have it go directly into the ac main, but i have not had the time to rewire..

take care
-marco


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Sam Nelson
1st Mate

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USA
64 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2002 :  21:47:10  Show Profile
The question was asked about how to better protect our boats from elecrical damage. There are a couple of things... an immediate benefit is had by insuring the circuit you connect your boat to is protected by a ground fault interupter (GFI) system. You can usually tell if you have GFI by looking for a test/reset button(s) on the marina side of your extension cord.
And a surge protector is great also. These can be had to connect to your primary AC breaker inside the boat. You can get these at Walmart. Make sure you have a good ground to connect it to. Also, if you have cable, phone line, etc. coming aboard it's best to physically disconnect those prior to leaving the boat.
A constant voltage transformer would be way cool also... but a little too much to expect.

Sam Nelson
C25 "Stratos" #3811

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matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2002 :  12:12:44  Show Profile
I'm not an expert on AC power, but shouldn't the main AC breaker afford you enough protection to prevent frying your boat?

John Matsche 1985 Cat-25 TR/FK

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Sam Nelson
1st Mate

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USA
64 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2002 :  21:55:08  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I'm not an expert on AC power, but shouldn't the main AC breaker afford you enough protection to prevent frying your boat?

John Matsche 1985 Cat-25 TR/FK

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

John... The AC breaker will protect against a short downstream from the breaker, or anything drawing more current through the breaker than it is rated for. Normally this is fair insurance against burnt wiring, major smoke, etc. A breaker won't trip fast enough should a voltage surge come in, and surges fry electronics. Breakers can take up to 1/2 second to cycle... an eternity in electronics. Surge supressors fire in milliseconds, some even in nanoseconds.


Sam Nelson
C25 "Stratos" #3811

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