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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My boat came with a Garelick 71090 outboard bracket for our Honda longshaft. Unfortunately it doesn't get the engine down low enough, and in a good enough swell the prop will come out of the water. I bought a 71091 to get an extra six inches, naively assuming that it would have the same bolt pattern, but in fact it does not. We got the engine and old bracket off the boat today, and now that I have to drill new holes anyway I'm wondering if the 71091 is the way to go.
What do folks consider the ideal bracket for the C25?
Thanks,
- Dan
"Windhorse" 1978 Catalina 25 Std Rig, Swing Keel, Pop Top
The custom motor mounts offered by Catalina Direct appear to be a good choice. I have the three spring model but you can select the appropriate model you need based on engine weight. If you have a long-shaft motor, as opposed to an extra-long-shaft motor, you will probably always be a little high or a little low dependent on the conditions.
I have the 71091 and it's an excellent bracket for manipulating a heavy 4-stroke motor. One drawback though is because of its wider footprint, you can't position it as low on the transom as you might need. I cheated by cutting part of the bracket.
You can also ship the bracket back to Garelick to have new srings installed. With the CD model (mfg'd by Garhauer) you have to replace the "H" arms as the springs are installed before welding.
A "long" (20") shaft is marginal for the C-25. One came on my boat--I fixed that problem. If you get the bracket low enough to keep the "long shaft" prop down in chop, the mounting board will drag when the boat pitches, throwing water up on the engine. The 71091 appears to be the class act out there, but an <i>extra</i>-long (25") shaft is almost a requirement for other than small lake sailors.
A comment on Motor Mounts. with the large seas and desire to motor sail on both tacks , a common practice is to mount the spring mount (TREM) on sail track <b>slides</b> . That is then mounted on sail track on the stern and this allows another 10 to 14 inch of travel for the motor . I used Aussie version of west-board ?? to mount the track with extra load bearing inside as well . The old mount waved around a lot in a big sea .. My extra long tohatsu 9.8 hp 2 stroke is so mounted
Thanks for the responses, guys. Encouraging to see that 71091 on your boat, OJ! I might not be handy enough for your solution, Graeme, but it looks great.
I'll have to measure my outboard to tell whether I have the long or ultra long Honda BF8D. Hopefully the latter or there's some way I can extend it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dacc</i> <br />I'll have to measure my outboard to tell whether I have the long or ultra long Honda BF8D. Hopefully the latter or there's some way I can extend it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you have the 1980-90s series Honda 8 (squared off cowling), it didn't come with an XL shaft back then. If you have the newer, rounded cowling, it did. The XL shaft will measure about 27.5" from the top of the mounting board to the top of the anti-ventillation plate above the prop. The Long will measure about 22.5".
When I got my boat with the older Honda 8, I looked into extending it--the cost would have been greater than selling it and buying a new one. The cost included the case extention, new drive shaft, shift shaft, exhaust pipe, labor...) and I would have still been an old engine with no electric start or high-thrust prop. I sold it very quickly for a nice price and bought the new one.
I just measured, and according to the manual I have an XL shaft, which is a relief. Still not sure why the previous owners put on the stumpy bracket.
I just measured the bracket attachment area and the teak block on the transom. Looks like there will be room to mount it without having to cut the bracket like you were forced to, OJ -- hopefully I'll still get good depth!
I'm still concerned about what to back it up with. The top bolts of the old brackets had 3"x3" stainless steel plates under 1.5" washers, but it was much lighter than this new one. Also there will be levering action against the transom from the greater depth. Maybe I can find some similar but larger plates.
Dan, I missed your question above. The only material I used for shimming out the motor was Starboard. I also used Starboard as a backer board. I used fender washers on the inside. No metal rails.
Dan , My experience with the O/B when I delivered my boat down the coast was a frightening flexing of the stern fibreglass as the largish waves loaded and unloaded the motor . Oj,s suggestion is very good . I put the Starboard externally as a spacer/strengthener and then on the inside used 1/4 inch thick Aluminium angle similar to OJ,s bracket . This is extended as high up the transom as possible to spread the load. Remembering the top is pulling out and bottom is pushing in ie unloading on the inside . The support inside and out is easy and stops any load flexing of the stern fibreglass . .
Thought I would report back on this project, all this time later.
I went with the 71091, and it's definitely an improvement, but she still cavitates a bit at slow speeds. Back when I posted I measured the shaft as an XL, but I'm going to get a second opinion from the guy doing my maintenance on whether I can get it extended.
Oh, and for anyone wondering, the bolt pattern and footprint is quite different between the 71091 and 71090. Maybe a beginner's mistake!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.