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 Replacing tow coupler
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/06/2011 :  19:21:06  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
Our launch yesterday was severely complicated by a grumpy tow coupler. It's been grumpy before, but never like this. We literally had to pound on the catch that engages the ball to get it to release or catch. Since we also strap launch, this complicated everything, but we finally got it done. However, that will be the last time on this coupler. I just now got done doing the hammering to get the ball out of the coupler after backing the trailer into the side yard. And I intend to dispose of the original coupler and replace it.

So, here are my questions: I'm looking at two different [url="http://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=84132&pc2=88730"]Attwood couplers[/url], one is for drum brakes (which my trailer currently has), and one, about $45 more for disk brakes (which I'd like to upgrade to). Can I purchase the disk brake version to use with my current drum brakes? Since I no longer have a boat on the trailer, I'm not too concerned about the brakes, so even if the brake portion wasn't hooked up until I got the disk brakes on, I don't think I'd be too concerned. Are their any caveats I should be aware of? It looks like a reasonably straight forward swap, one for the other. And what's the difference between the disk & drum brake models? Don't they both eventually just push brake fluid around?

What say ye?

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor


Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2011 :  20:36:10  Show Profile
David while your researching you may want to check out [url="http://www.tiedown.com/aactuator.html"]Tie Down[/url]. What I liked about them was the aluminum master cylinder.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 06/06/2011 20:36:33
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2011 :  21:13:29  Show Profile
We use the Tie Down #66 coupler for disk brakes. We are very happy with the coupler and all the support we got from Champion Trailers during the disk conversion project.

I suspect that the disks take less pressure than drums. You will need a "backup solenoid" when you go with disks. If you do the project I'd be happy to share our parts list with you.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2011 :  22:13:18  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
Thanks guys. Did you have to drill new holes in the end of the trailer for the Tie Down #66? I'm pretty sure our trailer's coupler is an Attwood, so I wonder if the bolt pattern is the same? I really like the price for the Tie Down as well, over $100 less than what seems to be a comparable Attwood. Got any idea what the difference is?

Randy,
Please do share your parts list, I've been poking around, for some reason I thought the disk brakes were like $600, but I see that the Tie Down brake set can be had for much less. So I'm more interested in looking at this than I was initially. I'd planned to sit on this project for several months at least, but now it's not looking like it's that big of a deal, at least cost-wise.

Edited by - delliottg on 06/06/2011 22:19:10
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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 06/07/2011 :  09:13:29  Show Profile
I don't recall having to drill any holes. Everything pretty much matched up. I did the swap several years ago. I don't remember it being a difficult project. I do remember receiving installation instructions with the coupler.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 06/07/2011 :  20:40:03  Show Profile
Tie Down #6600# Disc Brake Coupler
Kodiak Stainless Steel Vented Disc Brake Units
Disc Brake Bleed Solenoid Valve Kit
Stainless Brake Line Tubing Kit - First Axle Kit

The people at Champion are very helpful and there are many guides on their system to print off. I did a Mainsheet Tech article on this upgrade in May 2008. Also did a posting on the forum [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=15536&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=6600"]here[/url]. Note that we ended up with the stainless discs. Also the solenoid cover did not fit so we didn't use it. Fun project that is a bolt-it-on installation and boy these brakes work great.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 06/07/2011 20:42:02
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2011 :  09:16:35  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
Randy,
You guys have the Trailrite trailer, right? I looked at the bolt pattern on the back of my drums last night, I'm kind of assuming it's a standard pattern? Four bolts arranged symmetrically around the welded on axle? Just back those out, remove the wheel & drum, then bolt on the new disks and reinstall the wheel? Is [url="http://www.amazon.com/Tie-Down-Engineering-82101-Installation/dp/B0007LKZSY"]this kit[/url] roughly what you installed?

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2011 :  12:11:13  Show Profile
Yes, that kit is basically it. Looks like the backup solenoid may be built in. We have a Trailrite. I will post a photo of the axle tomorrow. Four bolts in a square pattern around the axle.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2011 :  04:15:03  Show Profile
I selected the Attwood #83010 when I replaced the actuator on our Trail-rite C-25 trailer. It is for drum brakes and is rated for up to 8000 lbs. with a 2" ball. Also, I found and purchased a 2" ball and mount from Curt rated at 7,500 lbs. I had a local shop do the change-out and some brake work. They charged me $237 for the actuator.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-83010.html?search=1 $267.95

check these guys out, may be less expensive than etrailer:
http://www.trailerpartsstore.com/6650-drum-brake-actuator.html $235.13 The ones you are looking at are less also!

BTW, my coupler had to be welded on so I can't help you regarding bolt holes. It mounts on the extension tube, which is smaller than the 3" frame it would have bolted to. A metal piece had to be added to the extension tube to increase the size to 3".

Edited by - dmpilc on 06/11/2011 07:54:49
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