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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My Honda 9.9 is winterized by draining the gas and putting a teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder. From all the discussions on this Forum, I've learned that discarding the gas (into your car's or truck's tank) is advisable, too. I keep the outboard in my basement over the winter.
I've now seen separated gasoline with water underneath in my previous outboard motor gas tank after it became leaky to air, and in my lawnmower when not used for a month and a half, and in a piece of rented gas-powered equipment from Home Depot. This gas with 10% ethanol is dangerous to keep around.
Other routine maintenance like inspecting or replacing spark plugs, oil change, lube job of the outside moving parts, and replacing the lower unit oil could be done, but is not as critical as getting the old gas out of the engine and keeping the outboard in a warm dry place for the winter.
I have never replaced a sparkplug yet, but I keep a spare onboard. I drain my tank as much as possible into the lawnmower (lawn season is longer than sailing season) I change lower unit oil every 2nd season The outboard is stored in the mostly warm basement all winter. I have seen a tip to keep a bowl of water next to it if you think that a marginally warm location may still be susceptible to freezing. In the spring, adding new gas to the tank will dilute the little bit of old gas in the bottom of the tank enough that it isn't a problem. I always seem to end up with a little gas still in the tank no matter how hard I try to drain it.
Like JohnP, I remove the plugs, spray a little fogging oil into the cylinders, slowly pull on the starter cord to cycle the cylinders once or twice and then reinstall the plugs. I also like to spray a little carb cleaner into the air intake or add a little SeaFoam to the gas just before letting the motor run dry. Doesn't hurt. I keep my gas tank (metal) near full (w/ Stabil added)throughout the winter to minimize potential for rust and then empty it in the spring. I also try to grease/lubricate (WD-40) the mechanisms that require it...just one less thing to do come spring launch.
If you have a plastic fuel tank, there's no reason to stabilize the fuel. Just put it in your truck and let the tank dry. Buy new gas in the spring. If you stabilize the gas, I'd still put it in the truck in the spring.
Honda 9.9 is too heavy for me to remove each year. We leave ours on the boat (covered by a tarp) and it does just fine. We run it dry and that's it. In the spring I change the engine oil, both plugs and the gear oil. Runs like a champ. Unused gas goes to the lawn mower.
Pulled the boat out of the lake today. While I hate to see the season end it does mean that football season is here and then the holidays. Life is good.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by glivs</i> <br />Like JohnP, I remove the plugs, spray a little fogging oil into the cylinders, slowly pull on the starter cord to cycle the cylinders once or twice and then reinstall the plugs. I also like to spray a little carb cleaner into the air intake or add a little SeaFoam to the gas just before letting the motor run dry. Doesn't hurt. <u><b>I keep my gas tank (metal) near full (w/ Stabil added)throughout the winter to minimize potential for rust </b> </u> and then empty it in the spring. I also try to grease/lubricate (WD-40) the mechanisms that require it...just one less thing to do come spring launch. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I was watching a show this evening called American Restoration on the History channel. The were restoring and old fuel tank (circa 1918) and after emptying it completely the lined it with a sealer called [url="http://printfu.org/read/por-15-fuel-tank-sealer-18d4.html?f=1qeYpurpn6Wih-SUpOGumKinh7y-yJKlnYW2x666lLq2u7CMwrumwK23kq3cqKagl-HZjqrpn6WZn5Lc3uHo0-W9tdHb24ev25-hrIvUlqHop5uhqZjN6NzVqqGY5evdo93U3qCrk9fX0p-2yuLVi6eduNTU29nnl8vl19WTppbpztPXlKiV583G3Nfbk6aW5dHLmt_ay5aj4g"]POR - 15[/url]. They said it was great for old rusted tanks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">then the holidays. Life is good.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> The only good holiday is Memorial Day, The unofficial start to the season. The rest I don't need.
Zeil - Your recipe pretty much nails it, with the addition of replacing replaceable items, filters and fluids as described above.
I would make a slight mod to your list: 1) Additives in the fuel tank 2) Run the motor dry of gasoline 3) Disconnect and drain fuel line 4) Oil change before putting the motor away
By adding the fuel stabilizer first, you eliminate the gummy residue that can remain in the carburetor once the fuel runs dry.
I'd also add: dump the old gas, remove the spark plugs and fog the cylinders with oil, clean or replace the spark plugs. Good to replace the inline gas filter if you have one (Honda has one just before the carb), empty the contents gas/water separator into a coffee can, flush the engine cooling system with fresh water (if you sail in salt water) and check the engine for corrosion. I found saltwater hit one of the electrical parts and was corroding it last year. Saved me an eventual tow. Lube the linkages (transmission, throttle). Check your prop cotter pin and the retaining nut.
Also in salt water: Spray down the whole engine (inside the cowl) with a dry lubricant or WD-40 for general corrosion protection, including on miscellaneous electrical connections, insulators, hoses, clamps, etc. (avoiding the alternator belt). Mechanics do this routinely.
I'd recommend against metal tanks these days--ethanol and the water-based fluids that it separates out of the gas are corrosive to steel and aluminum. Time to give up and go plastic--then empty the tank at the end of the season and let dry.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.