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I don't remember what I did last year, but before I pull my boat out, is it recommended that I disconnect the fuel line while the engine is still running and let it run dry?
Also, the last time out I noticed that the water stream coming from the engine would be strong, then weaken a bit, then get strong again. It would cycle in this manner continuously about every 20 or 30 seconds. I've never noticed this behavior before. Is this a sympton an impeller needing replaced?
I don't remember what I did last year, but before I pull my boat out, is it recommended that I disconnect the fuel line while the engine is still running and let it run dry? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I've never disconnected the fuel line. Depending on where you disconnect it - you could have gas pour onto a hot engine?
It you want to be thorough - you could crack open the drain screw on the bottom of the carb bowl (if the Tohatsu has one) . . . after the engine has cooled down.
IMHO.. I don't know Tohatsu's but on Evinrude/Johnsons we always ran the fuel out after an outing, and the engines still crank and run well.
This was with the mid sized engines. The smaller one on the sailboat I've not been doing that, and is runs fine, so I'm wondering if the smaller bowl on the carb does not hold as much oil, or if the tilting of the engine is letting it drain.
The water change sounds like a thermostat opening and closing, but thanks for reminding me .. Mine kinda clogs, as the line is decomposing and blocking with debris. I need to change out the "rubber" line.
I'm no mechanic, but after we started running the fuel out of the system the bigger engines gave us little or no trouble when cranking.
It's a great idea to run the excess gas out at the end of each outing, doesn't matter who's engine it is. But especially when you're putting it away for the winter. Then either put the recommended amount of "sta-bil" or like gas treatment in whatever fuel you have in the tank or pour it into your car and get new fuel in the Spring. And as far as the impeller goes I haven't seen one fluctuate like that, only when you increase or decrease the throttle. How long has it been since you replaced it?
There might be some differences between the best practices for 2-cycles (Johnson/Evinrude) and 4-cycles (Honda and others)... But a Honda mechanic recommended that I double up on stabilizer in the last fuel of the season, run the engine to get the stabilizer into the carb, turn off the engine (carb full), fog the cylinders, and put her away. The theory was that an empty carb has residual gas that dries into varnish on the float valve and jets, while stabilized gas will remain fluid until new, fresh gas is run through next spring.
I followed that advice with my Honda 8 using two stabilizers--Marine Stabil (green version) and Startron, which are significantly different chemistries. It seemed to work, but I can't say if it worked better than if I had run dry, because I didn't. My Honda 225 (the Pilot V-6) has gas in the injection system all winter--I don't think there's a way to run it dry except to run the 110-gallon tank empty (which I don't). But that's obviously a "different" engine!
After seeing what built up in my Nissan carb bowl over 2 years, I'm seriously considering pulling the bowl annually to give it a good cleaning. Yes, pull the fuel line and run it dry, then open the screw under the bowl and drain the rest from the bowl. Then pull the carb, clean the bowl and reassemble.
We leave our in the water over the winter, so I try to go out there at least once a month to run the engine for a while.
On all my engines I run them dry if they will not be used for more than a month. If they are used more then that I don't bother running them dry. My thought is the more gas left in the bowl the more gas to go bad. I always add some Stabil to any gas that will be in the tank more than a month. That way if any gas is left in the carb bowl, after I run it dry, the Stabil helps to keep it from drying into a pile of goo. If your worried about fire danger from disconnecting a fuel line you can disconnect it before you start the engine. There is a drain screw on the Tohatsu carb located on the port side of the carb bottom cover. Not sure if you can access it without removing the carb.
When I'm in the well, sitting atop the straps that will haul me out, I pull the plug from my Tohatsu and let her run dry. The quick connect plug (I assume is standard) is outside the engine cowling on the port side of the engine face so there's no risk of gas spilling on the engine. There's no risk of gas spilling anywhere since the plug has to be in place for fuel to flow. As soon as it is pulled, the hose closes. That's the winter maintenance. In the spring, I change the oil and lower unit lube, put in new spark plugs and start it up. Vroom vroom!
I remove the motor from the boat for winter storage in my garage. Since I do that at the marina and have to lay it down to transport it, I wouldn't want gas left in the carb anyway.
I just disconnect the fuel at the engine end and run it till it dies. I did the same thing with my two strokes and never had a problem. Stabilizer will not stop the fuel from evaporating and leaving a residue.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.