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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hey guys, I just saw this on YouTube. Looks real interesting, but the cost will likely be north of $100. Comments? Looks like it would handle lake/inland sailing okay, but what about offshore coastal sailing in 4-6 ft seas?
Interesting. Looks like it would be better than letting the tiller just flop around, especially if you wanted to quickly dash below and grab a needed item, or toss out a forward line or set a fender.
I use a very taut bungy cord suspended between the aft cleats as a tiller tamer. I find that the bungy has a little "give", especially when larger waves hit the bow or aft quarter. This allows the boat to take the shock, but then its springy-ness allows the boat to re-adjust afterward and resume on its original heading.
I can also use a rope line strung across the aft cleats, but I find this is way too stiff. I'd imagine this tiller brake might be pretty still as well.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />Interesting. Looks like it would be better than letting the tiller just flop around, especially if you wanted to quickly dash below and grab a needed item, or toss out a forward line or set a fender.
I use a very taut bungy cord suspended between the aft cleats as a tiller tamer. I find that the bungy has a little "give", especially when larger waves hit the bow or aft quarter. This allows the boat to take the shock, but then its springy-ness allows the boat to re-adjust afterward and resume on its original heading.
I can also use a rope line strung across the aft cleats, but I find this is way too stiff. I'd imagine this tiller brake might be pretty still as well. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="navy">I'm also a fan of 1/4" bungee with a clove hitch. Works well and no unsightly hardware on the tiller. Plus it costs just a few bucks.</font id="navy"></font id="size2">.</font id="Comic Sans MS">
John, The hitch would slide along the tiller on Passage as the polyurethane is slick. I use the tiller extension handle bracket to secure the bungy. I thread a long SS bolt down through the bracket and loop the bungy over the bolt. Takes a little adjustment to get it right.
All tiller controllers suffer the same limitations on our size boats. They are great for lazing in the cockpit without having to keep a hand on the tiller all the time or ducking below for a minute, but going forward to the bow changes the trim enough to change course. I use my little Davis a lot for what it is good for, and I sometimes use it to add a little friction when my unbalanced rudder takes continuous pressure to maintain course. It's also great for securing the tiller out of the way. The system that you like and use is the best one for you.
David You're right - whenever I set the tiller, then go forward to drop a fender or untangle line, the boat veers off in one direction or the other - but never predictably! For example, I may get the boat going on a heading of 180M, then I'll dash forward and she'll veer up to 210M one time and move down to 130M another - with no rhyme or reason. I'd like to be able to predict how it will go so I can pre-compensate. Unfortunately, the boat frequently changes course to the opposite of what I expect. Any idea of the exact physics at work here?
Bruce, What other loads are on the boat (i.e., are you alone, or is there other weight onboard that could cause her to list to one side or the other)? Which way is the wind blowing when she veers? Are there gusts or eddies in the wind? Is there a tidal current flowing in one direction or the other? I would think that all of those could potentially cause the boat to veer off, because as you move across the water, and through the air you hit inconsistencies that would cause it to veer off from the heading you'd set. Similarly, if you are standing on the starboard side (assuming it's the windward side) and you transfer your weight to the midship or port side, you'll change the weight distribution of the boat and, ultimately, the heading.
One test - if you fix the tiller and just sit there does she still veer?
If you lock the helm, you can steer a sailboat all around a racecourse, including tacking back-and-forth to windward, simply by shifting crew weight from one side of the boat to the other and retrimming the sails. I crewed on a Pearson 32 about 3 years ago in a race in which we had to center the helm and lock it, and round the course without using the wheel. It can be done.
Steve, that sounds like a fun exercise in boat handling and a unique way to do a race, like a poker run where you have to perform certain oat handling skills, like heaving to, in order to get an extra card.
Rudders just make following a course easier, they aren't essential for steering a sailboat, nor is moveable ballast (crew). The rudder's lift works in conjunction with the keel, so it's easier to sail by trim alone in some boats with the rudder locked than with no rudder at all. I've done it both ways; it is a useful skill set, fun, and satisfying.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.