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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
A previous owner of Charm routed the electric wire from her outboard motor directly to her battery, coming through the transom without a grommet or other seal, and without a break in the wire from motor to battery. I'd like to replace the wire -- it's showing its age -- and I'd like to make motor dismounting a bit easier. My thought is to buy a plug and socket so the motor will have a connection to a plug, and the battery to a socket. The socket would be sealed into the transom. However, a friend suggests that the connection would be an electrical weak spot. He suggests cutting the two conductors at a distance from each other and attaching ring connectors to them. He would then connect the boat to the motor with a nut and bolt through each pair of ring connectors. His rationale is that the ring connectors provide more surface area and the nut and bolt -- with lock washers -- provide a more vibration-resistant connection.
What are your thoughts and/or suggestions?
TIA
Eric Spitzner, AP (eric@snet.net) Catalina 25 #4445 "Charm" 41°16.18'N 72°54.03'W
All of the washer connecting sounds as difficult as the wing nuts on the battery of the present connection. Plus... the way it is now...when the theif cuts the battery cable... he will at least mess up a good pocket knife. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
If the battery is reasonably easy to get to, I would add a grommet or boot and leave the cable intact. If not, I would strategically locate a couple of studs with wing nuts within to disconnect the cable.
The smallest <i>plug</i> I've found for this application was designed for towmotors - even then I had to cut the plug in two lengthwise to get one leg at a time to fit through the transom scupper - the more common route for motor cables . . . Good luck.
My new Honda has a hard-wired cable with O-connectors. I did not want an external connection--especially one that could be exposed to salt water. I put a hole high in the transom, put a rubber boot over it, and mounted two studs above the shelf at the foot of the quarterberth. Then I put O-connectors on a heavy cable that runs from the studs to a battery On/Off switch mounted in the bulkhead below the galley sink. Another cable runs from the switch to the battery. To remove the engine each Fall, I can disconnect it by removing two wing nuts in the quarterberth, and whenever I leave the boat in its slip, I can turn off the electric starter with the switch, which is locked inside the cabin but relatively easy to access.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I have a Johnson 9.9 Sailmaster wired through a trolling connector. The dealer set it up that way. When I bought the boat there was some heat in the male connector when cranking. I replaced it and no more problems. I bought an extra connector to use when giving the batteries a boost charge without having to open the boxes. I like to throw the charger on while we ready the boat prior to going out. When out the motor charge and solar panel seem to take care of our power consumption.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.