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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Gin pole again - wow

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/12/2012 : 11:41:24

Returning to gin pole project this off-season.

Wow, never realized the cost of aluminum tubing!

Toying with making it telescoping, 10' extended length, 7' collapsed. Leaning toward the ODs below for strength on and off the boat (getting knocked around in the back of the p/u.)

3" OD .188" wall x 7' $164.20
2.5" OD .250" wall x 5' $ 88.30

And this doesn't even include the channel for the hinge!

Wow

This is for a tall rig mast which weighs considerably more than a standard rig.

Thoughts? Comments?

Wow

1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 01/12/2012 11:42:37

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2012 : 13:23:19

Way too big OD. My gin pole is 1.50" with .25" walls I believe. This allows for 1" fittings to be used inserted in the tube end. In retrospect that size is overkill and I would now go 1.25" with .125 walls. Try this site and look at aluminum tubing 6061. Good outfit.

www.onlinemetals.com

Here is a thread with my gin pole setup:

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21203&SearchTerms=Gin,pole

Edited by - Nautiduck on 01/12/2012 13:41:13

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2012 : 13:49:58

I use an a-frame and have not used a gin pole. But my question; Why use aluminum? Large diameter conduit would seem strong and light enough.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2012 : 13:51:14

Buy two 10 ft. sticks of 1" rigid electrical conduit and make DavyJ's A-frame. Much cheaper! I got over my hesitation to work with conduit and did it. Easier than I thought it would be. Cut the length with a hand hacksaw to fit your desired length. I think it works out to about 9 ft. I measured from the forward lower chainplates to the bow stem and added about 4". Using a hammer and the solid concrete stepping stone block (2" high) that my C-22 trailer jack sits on, I flattened 4" at each end. Then, using the ball mount receiver on our tow vehicle as a "vise", I slowly and carefully bent each end to the angle I thought I needed to make the correct "A", then drilled a 5/16" hole in each end for the attachment point bolts and pins. Next take the 2 pieces and connecting hardware out to the boat and lay the poles out on the deck to check the angles. Bend corrections as needed. The whole thing, excluding blocks I already had, cost well under $45.
The nice thing is that, when not needed, the A-frame comes apart easily for storage.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/12/2012 13:56:35

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2012 : 18:56:21

Still can't warm up to the A-frame design.

Thanks for the input and links - great pix and examples.

Indeed I should look at smaller diameters - <font color="blue">but don't forget this is a tall rig, 30' and 200 pounds. </font id="blue"> If I error, it needs to be on the strong side. I don't ever want to think about the unit not being strong enough - like the pole buckling. Hardware failure, even pushing the limits, is not an option.

Randy, thanks for the link to onlinemetals - much cheaper than metalsdepot. Hope I am comparing apples to apples.

Edited by - OJ on 01/12/2012 19:14:22

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2012 : 22:02:05

If you're worried about the pole buckling (it shouldn't, it should mostly be in compression), you might try sleeving the pole over a large dowel. I've done this before on a smaller scale with great success. I'm not sure where you'd find a dowel long enough, but you could also use several stacked inside the tube.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2012 : 09:46:01

In the past, I've made whisker poles and canopy support poles out of wood closet dowel (used in making coat hanger racks). Should be available in lengths up to 10-12 ft. at building supply stores.

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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2272 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2012 : 12:26:47

When I saw the prices for aluminum tubing, I decided to go with a 2x4 ($2 at Home Depot). I think it gives a better flat surface for mounting the winch, if you're using a winch instead of block & tackle. It does not collapse for easy storage, but I was willing to give that up for economy. I used a nylon winch strap instead of line or cable, and used a trailer roller as my "sheave" at the end of the pole to redirect the strap. I used a trailer spare tire bracket to attach the gin pole to the mast. As you can see, I also used ratcheting straps as my "baby stays."

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I know the hardware and connection points are different for a C25TR, so my method may not translate directly to your boat. But maybe you can use a few of these ideas.

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2012 : 12:43:21

If you recall, DavyJ's design allows him to quickly and conveniently raise and lower the mast each time he goes out past the low bridge in his sailing area. That's why it is so elegant, compact, and practical for his use.

I only have to step or unstep my mast when equipment fails, so I used two 2x4's to make an A-frame. I can carry the lumber on the roof of my station wagon for the odd times I need to bring the A-frame to the boat. Cheap, strong, and easy to adapt.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2012 : 15:31:15

I've made 2 A-frames out of 2x4's, used the first one once successfully, but stored it under the marina building and lost it in the flood 2 years ago. Haven't used the second one yet. A short time ago, I decided to try making the one out of conduit. The 2x4's are plenty strong enough for the tall rig, but they are also heavy to carry. The conduit is easier to carry if you have a long walk from the parking lot to the boat. The next time I drop the mast, I may try both, down with one and up with the other to test which one works best. both are designed to attach to the forward lower chainplates, but using different methods. If you go with 2x4's, cut 2 small squares from some old carpet to put under the 2x4's to protect the deck. They (the carpet squares)store easily in the boat.

Edited by - dmpilc on 01/13/2012 15:32:40

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