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Desolation Sound, BC, Canada, Summer 2011

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zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/20/2012 : 20:50:30

(Previously posted)

updated J'014

Even in my native Dutch words seem inadequate to describe the beauty of the Desolation Sound area. One can easily spend the entire summer, going from one of its many bays, coves and anchorages and live of the water & land. But make no mistake, it is wilderness. Elements, tides demand full attention in order to get there and back. Your boat and equipment should be in trustworthy condition.

Waggoner Cruising Guide,(a must have), describes it as follows; "With its name of Desolation Sound, its unforgettable beauty and its location beyond the end of the road. Desolation Sound is one of the most dreamed about and sought after cruising destinations".

Since it is located close to point where tidal currents flowing north/south around Vancouver Island meet, water in Desolation Sound is not regularly exchanged with cold ocean water and is therefore comfortable to swim in.

The best time to visit is July/August or during the shoulder periods of June and September.

Cruise itinerary: We completed this cruise as part of the Fraser Valley Power Squadron who determined the itinerary and places to visit. 5 sailboats and 4 powerboats participated and met-up most evenings. We sailed the entire cruise in company of Peter and Angela aboard their '95 C250 WB "Seabear", and parts of the trip with Ray and Betty aboard their 26 ft MacGregor. It is assuring to have back-up and trip planning skipper meetings. Both couples, besides acting as our guides, were great company and fun to be with. We've spent now almost 3 months sailing together with Peter and Angela and look forward to the next opportunity

Trip synopsis: Our cruise took us from Crescent Beach Marina via Point Roberts (USA) and crossing the Straight of Georgia to Active Pass for an overnight sterntie at Wallace Island. Next day trough Dodd's narrows to Nanaimo (New Castle) and again crossing the strait to Smugglers Cove. Next day on to Westview which has a nice harbor including supplies, showers and shopping. From there via Lund, we stopped for fuel, a look around and for lunch, clearing Sarah Point to Grace Harbor for the night. From there to beautiful Prideaux Haven and the next day on to Refuge Cove were weather forced us, in spite of the rain, to spent 3 wonderful days. It it steeped in history, has boardwalks, some houses, electricity 24/7 supplied by a diesel generator, fuel, showers and laundry facilities, a well stocked general store, breakfast and dinner facilities. You'll love it.

We skipped Squirrel Cove and went on to Teakerne Arm, visited in past days by Captain Vancouver, enjoyed the waterfalls and continued on via Lewis Channel to anchor deep in the VonDonop Inlet. Watch out the Von Donop entrance contains a rock just below surface which we barely missed. It is on the chart, we were warned and still nearly hit it!! Since we spent years before several summer holidays on Quadra Island the next leg we sailed on a beam reach all the way to Rebecca Spit and into Heriot Bay on Quadra Island. Since the wind was just perfect we sailed around the bay several times. After spending the night on the hook at Rebecca Spit we headed for Gorge Harbor on Cortes Island with its narrow entrance where we tied up to the dock, refueled, stretched our legs walking all the way to Whale Town and back, had dinner, cleaned up a bit and decided to stay two nights. It has brand-new facilities and is in the summer a busy place.

From Gorge Harbor we set out again via Sutil Point, Hernando Island, Lund and Savary Island back to Westview's harbor located just south of Powell River. We spent the night on the dock in Westview sailed, leaving Texada Island to our port, the next morning to Deep Cove on Jedediah Island for a two stern tie overnights. This Island has a semi Mediterranean Climate, lots of history and fishing was awesome!! From there crossing the strait under light conditions to Nanaimo (New Castle's) harbor which has exceptional mariner facilities.

Next morning, we planned our departure to coincide with slack tide at Dodd Narrows to arrive during the afternoon in Pirate's Cove for a stern tie, BBQ and long walk. From there the next day we proceeded via Stuart Channel and Trincomali Channel to the harbor of Ganges on Saltspring Island. There is so much to see and do on the Island that we could've stayed a week. The harbor is busy with lots of boats but we were assigned a nice slip and spent two glorious days wandering the town, restaurants, shops, library and talked to locals. From there, we went through Active Pass at slack water via the Strait of Georgia, crossing at right angles through the shipping lanes to Point Roberts (USA) where we cleared customs to our slip on D dock. We spent an additional 4 days just enjoying being on the boat, taking our kids for a sail and cleaning up.

Food: Johanna stocked ample breakfast, lunch, dinner and snack food for a 3 week plus period plus sufficient for occasional guests. Veggies, fruit, meat and cigars are available in some locations (we set out well below our lines)

Fuel: On board fuel for our Honda 8 hp was a total of 42 liters roughly 10 gallon kept in 3 (10 ltr) 2 gallon containers and one 3 (12 ltr) gallon main tank. We used an estimated 150 liters or 1 liter (0.264 gallon) per 4.7 nm or (5.3 mile) or (8.6 km) This includes sailing without the use of the outboard

Charts and GPS; We purchased and used all charts for the area extensively. In addition we purchased the 370 page Waggoner (another dutchie) cruising guide ($25.00) which is full of up-to-date information and recommendations including harbor layouts, phone, internet, VHF etc. We used and older Garmin GPS and a new IPod Touch in conjunction with Bad Elf GPS and InavX charts which we could not get to work properly until the very last portion of the trip. A good functioning VHF is indispensable for radio contact, monitoring channel 16 & working channels, communication with others and above all weather reports.

Weather during the cruise: Weather conditions overall were excellent with enjoyable temperatures. Mornings and evenings are cool, mid-day warm, wind stays cool. Layered clothing is a must. Sunshine on the water is intensive. Hats, toques, caps and protection is a must. We headed a couple of times directly into a 10-20k wind which is for our 25 footers plenty given the chop and all.

Sailing and motoring: About 75% of the distance was completed on our Honda 8 hp with the balance sailing or sailing with motor assist. Did some glorious stretches by sail only!!

Tender: When we set-out from Crescent Beach we were towing our hard bottomed 8.6" inflatable tender. It slowed us right down and in Peter's words we were towing a barge. Nearing Point Roberts, USA, a severe weather warning made us turn around and head 10 nm for our home port again. It also gave us a chance to run home again and exchange the "barge", for our 7'.6" 40 lbs lightweight "Someday Baby". Mind you it is rather tippy and Johanna does not like it, but it tows very easily. The best tender for our size of boat is the inflatable 8ft soft bottom West Marine with a Honda air cooled 2 hp motor. (I've been ordered by the skipper to buy one)

Approach to area cruising: Waggoner Cruising Guides states: "The Pacific North west is a series of cruising areas separated by "Gates" - significant bodies of water that must be crossed. Although gates define our experience and abilities, they also serve as natural stopping points. For example we stay in the Puget Sound because the strait of San De Fuca is a gate. So are the Gulf Islands because of the Strait of Georgia and we go no farther than Desolation Sound because the reversing tidal rapids north of Desolation Sound. However, once beyond a gate and in a certain cruising area, the waters are protected. Fortunately summer weather is usually agreeable. With study of the tide and current books, a close eye on the winds, and a properly equipped boat, the gates can be negotiated in safety and perfect comfort. The farther one ranges, the more time is needed which is a principal element for the NW cruiser".

Wish list: We have enjoyed this cruise immensely. It also has given us confidence in negotiating West Coast waterways, interpreting charts and navigation. One area that we would like to explore is the Barkley Sound area on the west side of Vancouver Island. An initial vague outline is to cross to the Island by ferry rather than negotiating the San De Fuca waters around Victoria and launch the boat somewhere in Port Alberni or Ucluelet, Vancouver Island. The Broken Group, Deer Group or Chain Goup offer unlimited anchorages, exploring and fishing. Any takers for next year??

Plans are in the works to explore Princess Louisa Inlet, Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada north of Vancouver, BC

Fenders stored inside while underway

Just woke up… a real morning mess… well… perhaps but it is easily cleaned up. Just allow a few minutes to wash, brush teeth in one cup of water, get dressed, make the bed by folding back the top part of the mattress, insert the settee back rest, place pillows and voila it looks already much better. Next is setting the table for breakfast with pull-outs, fry eggs, make oatmeal, pour orange juice, make perc coffee spreading its wonderful aroma. Oh… just to be on board again… In the photo from L to R Against the head's bulkhead LED masthead anchor light, air-horne, ships copper bell, fist aid pouch, clip-on life line, TV antenna against port hull, woodcarving, V berth shelf with fiddle, starboard hull electric fly swatter, on the table, 2 bright halogen reading lights, portable radio, clock, candles in glass containers, artificial flowers, fan, LED 360 degrees cabin night light suspended from compression post,. On the floor computer case with loads of wire connectors, leather case with current charts, spanners, guides etc…

Edited by - zeil on 11/17/2014 23:42:04

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2012 : 22:13:00

Spectacular! Wonderful pix and narrative! Thanks!

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2012 : 16:35:45

zeil

From looking at your pictures, seems you have all the PNW proven crusing basic gear.

I know you guys had a good time..........seems hard to put in words.

How about the Broughtons for the whole month of July 2012?

http://www.pierresbay.com/

paulj

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 02/21/2012 : 18:27:36

Beautiful!!! Thanks for sharing.

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2012 : 21:05:31

We loved the trip to Desolation Sound and back including the stop-overs to and from during our 700 nm over 3 week long cruise. What added even more was the interaction, friendship, comradeship and safety cruising the big waters with relative small boats. Weather added a very pleasant aspect to it all.

Paul... we have seriously thought about the Broughtons and would love to go explore that area. We would gladly join others with 25ft or larger sail boats. As you suggested one month would be the very minimum and longer say 2 months preferred. It is a long way with lots to see and do. Equipment must be in order, the boat comfortable and lots of supplies to make live aboard pleasant for longer periods. Do you have plans to launch at Port Hardy, Campbell River or anywhere else on Vancouver Island?

For this summer 2012 plans are in the works to explore Princess Louisa Inlet, Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada north of Vancouver, BC for perhaps 2-3 weeks and again with a group of boaters including our friends. We would launch most likely at Crescent Beach, Canada again and sail north past Point Roberts, USA, and through Active Pass etc... Any one of you would like to come along??

The other area we would like to explore is the Barkley Sound on the west side of Vancouver Island. It is open with sheltered waters, excellent fishing, is remote and has lots of history. My initial plan would be to avoid Harrow Strait and trailer to the west side of Vancouver Island by ferry and overland and launch in Ucluelet and cruise two to four weeks or so.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2012 : 22:48:41

This is beginning to depress me... Here in CT, we're getting 50s right now--it feels like I should be pulling the cover off and painting the bottom... But I'm very suspicious we're being set up for a big surprise along about March.

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2012 : 12:50:41

What a beautiful sailing venue!

Here in Maryland it's 70 degrees this afternoon...and it's supposed to be the dead of winter! What's gonna happen in March???

I never had any reason to put on my new boat cover this off-season!

Edited by - on

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2012 : 22:33:20

Thanks for re-posting this, Zeil; I wasn't around for the first time. This area will be my first destination once I'm ready to venture beyond California, about 5 years from now, and I'm just dreaming of the day. But, as you say: "One can easily spend the entire summer..." You covered a lot of water on this trip, and I gather that a large portion of it was motoring rather than the pleasure of simply sailing. I'd be surprised if you don't go back when life allows you a more leisurely pace.

I've got a question, since you talk about trailering to the West Coast; would it be reasonable to ferry across - say, to Nanaimo - and trailer up to Campbell River? That would leave one considerably more time up in the Gulf Islands rather than getting up there. I'll enjoy Desolation and the islands, without doubt, but I'd also like to experience the solitude of Bute. However, as you well know, a 25 footer is not a long-distance cruiser, even with the best of planning and provisioning. What will it cost to ferry over to Vancouver Is., and is highway 19 a good road for trailering? Thanks again, Zeil!

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2012 : 11:23:12

You're absolutely right Lee in saying that our 25ft boats are certainly not long distance cruisers, even less so in foul, cold miserable weather or performance in big open waters. No question but… with a little ingenuity and careful cruise planning they perform well enough to make life aboard pleasant for longer periods anywhere. Last year we made the boat our home for more than 5 months. The key is to match expectation to equipment and respect its limitations. Your boat's trailer-ability versus a larger better equipped boat, etcetera, etcetera…

Cruising from the San Juan's north through a "gate" as Waggoner calls it, is a bit intimidating but also delightful with wonderful areas to explore in relative sheltered waters all the way to Nanaimo, New Castle area where you encounter another "gate" to go further north. Once past these "gates", it is clear sailing.

Taking the ferry from the mainland to Vancouver island is rather costly at about $205.00 for a 50ft combination one way. Sailing the distance may take a bit longer but is far more economical. Lets face it once you are retired time may have a different connotation. The coastal road systems, both on Vancouver Island and mainland all the way to Port Hardy or Lund is good, scenic and wonderful to explore. This summer we hope to do a lot more exploring

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2012 : 04:47:49

It would be a shame to have Henk & Joanna's articles "lost" so to speak in the forum archives. Any possibility they could be moved to the Cruising/Adventures tab on the left side of the forum page? Both the forum and Cruising tab are accessible, but the latter might prove a more intuitive starting point for anyone planning a cruise.

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2012 : 20:32:02

zeil

Looks like the squadron is going to the Broughtons

Valley Squadron
Fraser Valley of British Columbia

July 2012 3 Week Cruise to Broughton Archipelego, North of Desolation Sound

I may give them a email jingle.

Their site had a lot of fantastic information....water and pumpout info.

This seems to be the salute of the trip....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ8nMPk_uUg

paulj 2002 C310 Anacortes,Wa

In 2002-2004 when I sailed my 2002 C250WK in Gulf Islands etc I parked my Jeep and trailer at Thunderbird Marina,BC

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piseas
Former Treasurer

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USA
2017 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 14:14:27

Henk, I am jealous. You are living the life.
Steve A

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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2012 : 19:25:37

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you for sharing and what a spectacular area for cruising. Yet another location on my list of "someday, maybe" to cruise. Truly inspiring!!!

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2012 : 20:51:40

Thank you all for your comments and encouragements...
Thanks to David Bennett a "Desolation Sound', article will appear in the next Mainsheet issue...

Edited by - zeil on 04/02/2012 20:53:03

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2013 : 13:04:51

A few more images of our wonderful Desolation Sound cruise

Picturesque floating dwelling in Refuge Cove, BC

Boardwalk at Refuge Cove, BC

Motoring through one of the many Desolation channels, BC

Rebecca Spit, Quadra Island morning walk

Deep Cove at Jedidiah Island, BC

Both commodores at the entrance to Pirate Cove, BC

Inexpensive "walky talkies", worked well during the trip

Point Roberts, WA haul-out and bottom cleaning... ready to go home after a wonderful trip...

Boat-trailer stored at home in Langley, BC

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