Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi, i have the old square "rv" cabin lights, in the process of my spring "overhaul" i want to put LED lights there (i already have LED nav lights) i've searched through older treads and most of them are a couple of years old and LEDs have evolved a bit (specially the price), i've found an interesting one here:
here's my questions: 1) are the old cabin light sockets compatible with 1156 lights? 2) has the polarity problem been fixed with those new type of LEDs? (with multiple SMD LEDs i think it would be possible to make an array that would work on any polarity)
The polarity was wrong on Pearl where I did bulb replacements, but the replacement fixtures I put in the main cabin (saloon is the proper term) are much brighter and even. Switching the wiring is a quick, simple job.
did you just switched the main wires that connect to the bus bar? i think the ground also goes to the mast and nav lights, it means reversing my other leds, might be less trouble for me to rewire the LED bulbs?
I only kept 2 fixtures, so I just switched the wires in the fixtures. I intended to replace those last 2 fixtures when I saw how much of an improvement new fixtures made, but I haven't gotten around to it since they are in the head and v-berth.
Dave B Did you say that the LED lights were <i>brighter</i> than the original incandescent bulbs? And you can't beat the prices. I just bought a pair of DrLED Mars Dome lights for $70 <b>each</b>, but haven't installed them yet. I really, really hope they were worth the price. I plan on placing one on the starboard side and the other on port in the main saloon. I might go for the eBay lights for the rest of the fixtures.
I was thinking of replacing our lights with florescent lights similar to the ones in the RV. They give off better light than the bulb type. So far I have not seen LED lights that gave off a good light to read or work by.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I just bought a pair of DrLED Mars Dome lights for $70 each<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> The Mars light fixtures are worth every penny of their outrageous price in my opinion. Replacement bulbs appear to be brighter than the original incandescent bulbs, but the old fixtures absorb a lot of the light. I glued aluminum foil behind the bulb in the fixtures I haven't replaced so that 75% of the light from the backside isn't wasted, but they still don't approach the Mars.
There are two types of white LED's, either a combination of RYB color emitters or phosphor coated emitters. RYB combinations emit the 3 primary colors in narrow wavelengths that are perceived as white, these are the brightest and most efficient, but a yellowish filter like an aged fixture will absorb much of the R and B light. The phosphor coated emitters shift the emitters narrow band light into a broadband of mixed light wavelengths so more of the light can pass through a weak filter like that old fixture. An extremely well designed, clear glass lens is the most efficient and expensive fixture, frosted glass from good design to plain is next, and translucent plastic from white to colored is last.
Dave B - I am looking forward to using the new Dr. LED lights - I expect to install them shortly.
I get the issue with white LEDs: they produce several bright peaks of light at specific wavelengths, so when combined appear whitish. Often, the manufacturer will give you a corresponding Kelvin color temperature, like 2200K for a yellowish tint (tungsten) or 5600K for a bluish tint. Colored filters only attenuate the available light, so are not effective as they reduce the perceived brightness.
Howard - I have tried a small battery-operated fluorescent fixture. See this one [url="http://www.amazon.com/50995-Fluorescent-12-Inch-Battery-Operated/dp/B0018QDJ7G"]here[/url]. 120VAC fixtures are not an option for me. The ones that take 8 AA batteries will run directly off a 12V source. I solder in #16 or #18 red or white wire for plus and black or green wire for minus, but beware - do not reverse the connections! You only get one shot. Rechargeable NiMH are a good option if you prefer to avoid wiring.
Good news is we have lots of options - some inexpensive, some more-so. All in all, while the options are nice, its a pity that we will likely be the last generation that knows the soft amber glow of incandescent lighting.
on a side note i just received Dr LEDs bow light (green-red) and they've included a small circuit that automatically reverses polarity if it's wrong, it's just a matter of a small SM IC and transistor, it's clever, cheap and easy to do, all mfg could do this on their LEDs replacement
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">they've included a small circuit that automatically reverses polarity if it's wrong<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Attention to things like that are part of the reason why it's often worth it to pay a little more. It's the details that separate quality products from their cheap brethren.
Yepper.. thanks everyone for the info.. I purchased the mars white/white this weekend for my primary salon light. The West Marine Economy LED dome lights are not quite enough light for playing dominoes.
I didn't want to create new thread so here is my attempt to create new cabin lights from scratch.
Part 1: cut the wood blocks 120 x 120 x 30 mm (some peace of beech kitchen working desk). This size will easily cover the holes from the old lamps (~110 x 110 mm)
Part 2: engrave the edges by a router and cut the holes for the furniture ceiling lamp (it uses 12V G4 halogen bulbs) but I will use cheap $2 G4 1.8W cold LEDs. It's light is similar to 10W halogen bulb.
Part 3: Stain and/or varnish. I've tried Mahagony alcoholic stain but its too red so I think I will just varnish and keep the natural look. More photos soon
I just finished installing the ones from Catalina Direct to replace the old units. I put them in the salon and they seem to be brighter. The square trim piece they provide does not fit in the space available so it was discarded. They seem to be brighter, however, I have not tried them at night yet. I also discovered the polarity issue when I installed a 12V power plug in the head area. I taped the light wiring and the fan ran backwards. Easy switch at the light.
IMO, the factory fixtures aren't worth keeping, whether they're still good or not. Mine were in good shape, but they were difficult to switch to the right position. And they have that yellow frame. They're just dated! There are a ton of cheap, updated LED fixtures out there that you can switch to. There's no reason to stick with the factory junk.
I needed some light in the far end of the quarterberth so I went to the local truckstop and bought three license place LED lights (white), created a mounting block from wood (like Tomas), but I painted mine white to blend in, mounted the three lights to the block using screws and epoxy, wired the fixtures in parallel and added a switch that was mounted through a hole in the block.
I ran a piece of 16 gauge wire along the deck-hull fitting from the light to connect it up with the last cabin light in the series and connected power. It works great!
I like Tomas' round LED fixtures. My three license plate lights are quite bright in this area, and allow me to read a book while resting in the quarterberth.
3 coat of varnish and finally replaced all 5 lights:
Result:
It was worth the job and the material costs is $10/each :-) More brighter than previous 15W bulbs with reliable switches. I have one spare wood frame in case I will need more or for replacement.
I will photo that old lights for swap meat, but I don't think they are worth sending overseas...maybe just for shipping costs if anyone want to restore the original look. Only two of them are in a good shape. If you want it, check the swap meet in a few days.
Tomas.....great job on the lights and boat improvements generally. Karma is also a '78 L shaped dinette that I bought last year so I was particularly interested in your improvements. We don't really own a boat until we put some blood, sweat and tears into her. (not to mention money)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ape-X</i> <br />what is the door across from the head? Does it close off the head from the main cabin? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That is clothing cabinet with several shelves made by PO. I will try to take some more photos.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.